Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol problem was .63 dropping. not .82. PU comes in both .63 and .82 depends on what people wants. Also I had a customer making 21psi to red line in .63 internally gated. I'll be seeing this guy's car on the weekend and should be able to sort it out.

  hypergear said:
We have an example here. SSGOhan here's running a high flow with a OP6 housing with a 20psi actuator. See what’s happening here? his getting 18psi with no boost controller and experience a boost drop to 16psi at red line.

thats fine, and its SSGOhans car and results that we are trying to replicate with mark and nicks car, 18 dropping to 16 (i have all daniels graphs) is fine but we are getting 18 dropping to 12 with the actuator that was supplied hence i asked mark to upgrade.

I understand it is never going to hold till redline with the 0.63 but the increase of boost from 12 to 16 with the bigger actuator could give us as 20-35rwkw.... a great outcome.

Hi Trent. you mean Ricks car? he's definently have the high pressure actautor, I tested it on front of him before putting it on. He's also got the wastegate controller installed, Have you had a play with it on the dyno? That will hold 18psi red line.

Also he's turbo is in a totally different profile to either Daniel or Mark. It will be the most responsive out of all 3, How ever marks should have the highest torque.

I will check mark's actuator and few other things this weekend.

Plus do you still remember that light blue R33 you workedon towards the end of last year? that guy's got exact high flow profile in .63 turbine a Marks with the same actuator. He's holding 21psi to red line. Did he came back after running into few trees? (he said he had an accident when I rang for some feedbacks.)

Its just strange same actautor on the same turbo gives all sort of results on the same type of engines.

Few photos added in modifying intercooler pipe to suit a BOV. Photo shown the driver side pipe that is connected to the outlet of the cooler.

bov2a.jpg

bov3a.jpg

bov1a.jpg

Its a HPVA BOV. We make them as well.

bov1.jpg

As some of you've might seen. This is ATR43G4 in .82 turbine housing Running internally gate with high pressure actautor.

In generally you will find .82 turbine housing and high pressure actuators work pretty well on RB25dets. made 321rwkws@22psi.

rb25det310rwkw.jpg

so i have an r34 rb25det neo, and i want to upgrade the turbo.

I have all supporting mods to get to 270rwkw, but I'd rather have like 250 with better response. So can you recomend a turbo ATR43G2? or could i get that result with my stock turbo highflowed?

We can do a SS2 high flow to your stock turbo. which will make 260rwkws with stock standard response. Every thing bolts back on with no modifications required.

  zebra said:
funny that the 3071 keeps pulling past 7k yet the others dont...

Please see this thread for which cars were selected etc:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Qu...urbo+comparison

Its far from a perfect graph. It took me a lot of time, feel free to make your own thats better. These are all real dyno graphs.

I just used it as a way to show the pre 3000rpm performance of the stock turbo.

I've high flowed few in 2860RS spec. and it was more responsive then stock.

SS2 is a T3x .63 rear running a 2871RS spec CHRA in 52T comp using Stock housing. will get full boost by 3000rpm and max about 260rwkws.

Also Waste gate lever controller for stock R33 turbo high flowed units. Controller is optional, and cost more to make.

(note: Wheel profile made to use with this type of turbine housing is different to standard high flowed units. Slightly more lag, lot more top end.)

wc1.jpg

wc2.jpg

  hypergear said:
SS2 is a T3x .63 rear running a 2871RS spec CHRA in 52T comp using Stock housing. will get full boost by 3000rpm and max about 260rwkws.

how does mine compare to this Stao?

  hypergear said:
I've high flowed few in 2860RS spec. and it was more responsive then stock.

SS2 is a T3x .63 rear running a 2871RS spec CHRA in 52T comp using Stock housing. will get full boost by 3000rpm and max about 260rwkws.

Also Waste gate lever controller for stock R33 turbo high flowed units. Controller is optional, and cost more to make.

(note: Wheel profile made to use with this type of turbine housing is different to standard high flowed units. Slightly more lag, lot more top end.)

wc1.jpg

wc2.jpg

I see you have changed the position of the wastegate controller, much better :D

hello stao

ime interested in your atr43g3 with .82 rear for an rb25det r33, and also your atr43g2 with .82 rear what is the diff between the two. me chasing 280 300rwkw.

ive been looking at garretts gt3076r and cant decide between them or you. what would u have close to that

and also would a .63 rear be cappable of my power goal. and what sort of lag would i be looking at between the .63 and .82 rears, thanks.

We can supply all Garrett BB CHRA in what ever combinations you want.

The GT3076 56T running .82 housing with waste gate controller will get you about 300rwkws at 23psi. We can build this model based on a .82 T3 OEM bolton turbine housing with .60 Garrett anti surge comp housing and a big can actuator for $2200 including GST. All your stock lines fits. You see full boost about 4200RPMs with this model.

The sleeve bearing of above is ATR43G3. its about 200RPMs laggier, archives identical amount of power and power curve.

With .63 turbine housing we recommend a custom 3576 or 3582 profiled running .70 A/R comp. It can get you around 290rwkws with better response through gears.

what would the atr43g3 be like at 18 psi

and this is $1450 against $2200 and ile only lose 200rmp of lag.

is the afm the same diameter as the inlet. and u said i could achive my goal with one of these was that with .63 or .82 rear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Weirdly I see a flat washer on aftermarket pumps but as you said it doesn't seem like new OEM pumps have it. EPC doesn't break out the regulator as a separate component either. I'm guessing if the pump came that way it's safe to use as-is. 
    • I'm always a glass half full kinda guy. This will be a great project and the finished product will be awesome.
    • A local that insisted he learned from the best in Australia for RB builds managed to machine a head past the point of saving according to another shop and it dropped a valve too. Ghosted the customer and as far as I know nothing really happened to him. A coworker also recently told a story about owning a Porsche in Germany and running into issues with a dealer tech leaving scratches, oil stains, and missing parts all over his car. I'm not a master tech by any means but at this point I've seen enough expensive mistakes that I'd rather make them myself.
    • 12 months on the pump would be great! The pump is really not that old, I have a receipt from when it was purchased new and it's done ~25,000km since then. it really should be okay. And if it it's not, well. I figured I'd at least run it out as it's already tapped for the nissan temp sensor sticking out of it. Here it was, ready to make it's journey back into the bay, though the balancer had to be tightened/seated more. And it was very stubborn to sit back. So much so that the crank bolt ended up stripping inside the crank instead of the balancer moving to it's intended location.  
    • There are professional butt-monkeys too. Just from lack of familiarity in Europe and the US there are plenty of mechanics who do things the wrong way on RBs. Even here in Oz, where we've been playing with RBs since 1986, there are still examples of the not-quite-bright-enough mechanic doing the wrong thing and causing simple jobs to go wrong.
×
×
  • Create New...