Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you mean trap speed, it is the speed that a car crosses the line at. For example you could have a honda civic going flat chat for a 15 second quarter mile at like 85mph or whatever, and a nitro funny car that cruises to half track then nails it to the line. This could also be a 15 sec 1/4, but the mph could be at like 130mph.

For street cars that are all going flat out all the way to the line, it gives a pretty good indication of horsepower for a given car's weight, since it's detached from the quarter mile measurement, and not affected anywhere near as much by launch ability of the driver or traction the car has as the ET is.

Thanks for the info. I will look into those.

It seems most of the cars that managed to run good times had stupidly large turbochargers on. From the turbo to engine size ratio on those things appeared to be very laggy. That's probably when launch control comes handy. Turbo building option for fast on quarters and feel good on road can be very different.

Be interested to see result from the laggier 431rwkws G4 profile as well as the new Sl20.5 and Sl25.5. With proper tyres and gear shifter.

Thanks for the info. I will look into those.

It seems most of the cars that managed to run good times had stupidly large turbochargers on. From the turbo to engine size ratio on those things appeared to be very laggy. That's probably when launch control comes handy. Turbo building option for fast on quarters and feel good on road can be very different.

Be interested to see result from the laggier 431rwkws G4 profile as well as the new Sl20.5 and Sl25.5. With proper tyres and gear shifter.

Which good times are you talking about?

It tends to be easier to run a good time with a quicker spooling turbo for the power level - at least in my experience, torque wins races and all that stuff. Sometimes you have to be a bit more careful to feather the throttle etc with a more accessible powerband, it seems lots of people get overexcited and give their cars too many RPM off the line when launching.

Obviously when you put stickier tyres on and get better shifts you will go much quicker, but at the moment the ETs you have done are in the realms of much less powerful cars on street tyres (ie, I did similar with 100+kw less and shit tyres - just a lower trap speed due to way less power).

125mph in a 1400ish KG car should be able to net a 10, should it not?

If you had a 1.5 or so 60' maybe, would be very hard to get that into the 10's on a H pattern manual unless you are top shit behind the wheel.

If you had a 1.5 or so 60' maybe, would be very hard to get that into the 10's on a H pattern manual unless you are top shit behind the wheel.

Good 60ft, but no 1.5 by any stretch and as you can hear the shifts aren't lightning quick - stock H-pattern, full interior, pump gas with stock bottom end with a 35R... 10.6 @ 128mph makes at least nearly hitting 10s seem realistic with 125mph:

Dyno that the power claim is from was quite a high reading hub dyno, but it had a lot of clout for a stock motor

Thanks for the info. I will look into those.

It seems most of the cars that managed to run good times had stupidly large turbochargers on. From the turbo to engine size ratio on those things appeared to be very laggy. That's probably when launch control comes handy. Turbo building option for fast on quarters and feel good on road can be very different.

Be interested to see result from the laggier 431rwkws G4 profile as well as the new Sl20.5 and Sl25.5. With proper tyres and gear shifter.

Yep if manual you need a two step or anti lag to get a big turbo up

Also the bigger the turbo with a manual, the harder it is to use drag radials over slicks as they don't absorb as much shock

and the big stuff has a narrower powerband and needs a big clutch dump usually

Auto not so bad, just good torque converter and gas it if you can't get it up

cheers

darren

If you had a 1.5 or so 60' maybe, would be very hard to get that into the 10's on a H pattern manual unless you are top shit behind the wheel.

And IRS as well ..its very hard to get a IRS manual car into the 10's with 125mph...128 is more typical

that r33 must have still 60ft in the low 1.6's?

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

The 3540 in 1.06 turbine is a huge turbo for a Rb25det, and he's only 3m/h faster, I think I can get that mileage on 23psi with G3 on MT tyres.

And yes I'm making an 11 blade wheel profile for the SL2 at moment. Aiming at T67's power with 20G's response.

Oh hey guys, I found this cool video online. Apparently its an SR20 with an SS1PU.

Enjoy.

Vwmhe.jpg Powered by VideoBam - Free Video Hosting

^^

That is very responsive for a SR20det. Not your car?

Also latest video from SSRicho. 1.31 lap time run at winton raceway.

R33 skyline. running our 21U high flow on 263rwkws.

Hi guys just thought i would post a couple of videos with the little mods i have done

Only mod i had done before these was when i boosted the stock turbo to around 11 psi

This is when i took off the old exhaust and before i installed the 3" exhaust

This is when i installed a 3" turbo back exhaust

My cousin had a VL High flow turbo that i decided to put in, with a few mods we made it fit.

i had to get a new oil line ($120) made, because my dump pipe from the turbo to the cat was 1 piece i had it get that modified to suit the VL dump pipe ($250 exhaust mod), had to find the a VL dump pipe and saw a few days earlier that one sold on ebay for $80 but after 1 day of searching on a friday and having to have the car running over the weekend i ended up buying the only i could find for $300 and all the extra piping for the intake and in-between the compressor housing and intercooler which worked out to be around another $50.

Total spent $520 plus what ever my cousin wants for the turbo which he said he paid around $500 which apparently was run for a round 5000km's and rated to 25 psi.

A lot more turbo lag in 1st and 2nd it wont start boosting until 3000 rpm but 3rd gear and over it boosts well. Only running it at just under 8 psi it is significantly faster then before. the night i left i raced another r34 and he told me he had a 3" exhaust and he had boosted it to 10 psi, he had me on take off but as soon i started boosting there was clear winner :) …… it wasn't a proper race it was like a slow rolling start but you could clearly see the improvement.

This was just me taking of from a friends house

Now i really want a FMIC and probably need a fuel reg can anyone recommend brands?

my cousin also said he has a O2 censor that goes to lcd screen so we can work out how much more we can boost it safely……………….does anyone know a safe limit to boost it too once i get an intercooler assuming i have enough fuel being available?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...