Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick off topic question, didn't think it was worth starting a new thread for.

I'm going to degree my cams next week sometime just to cross cam timing off the list once and for all, but just want to check if my car will still be driveable on the current tune after any changes? I know MAP sensors are sensitive to changes in the efficiency of the motor, will adjusting cam timing make it unhappy or should it be ok?

About time :whistling:

Who is doing it for you?

I moved my exh 4 degrees and inlet 2 and it became undrivable under 1200 when VCT was activated.

I'll do it myself. Not hard. Just didn't have the tools to do it, but seeing Stao's results has motivated me to get a move on again with mine, so I've just bought all the tools I need. Will make a piston stop next week. I'll be surprised if mine is out though. How did you move tour intake gear?

Planning on respraying my front bar and right front guard, so it will give me something to do to spare myself from the monotony of prepping and spraying :P

Take inlet gear off, adjust roughly 1mm per 2 degrees at crank. Refit and check. Took a few goes.

I remembered this morning I actually adjusted exhaust 2 degrees and inlet 6. I ran out of adjustment and had to skip the belt a tooth to get the inlet right. But I need to do it again (long story)

I've got a crank degree wheel and homemade piston stop if you need them

Did you buy the degree wheel? I was just going to print off one of the downloadable templates and stick it on a piece of ally. Piston stop should be easy, I've got a set of my old spark plugs here so I should be set for that.

Are the intake gears adjustable from factory? I thought they needed to be modified to make them adjustable?

Adjustable from behind on non neo. Not sure on yours. Should be the same. Yeah bought a wheel for a pineapple. Pm address if you want me to send it. Just be careful when removing gear it drips oil so cover up timing belt

VCT side is adjustable from stock boys. Hanaldo you will just need an exhaust side gear.

Trev amazing that you had to skip a tooth to get it right. That is just whack.

Hanaldo why don't you get Stao to update your G3 to the newer small trim compressor before you hit the rollers? Seeing as you're on the job already you may as well do it once and do it right.

Yep, I've got a HKS exhaust gear.

I would definitely send the turbo back if I was over east, but being so far away makes it too hard. It takes over a week just to get there, then a couple of days to modify, then another week to come back. So the car would be off the road for probably 3 weeks as compared to a couple of days. Unless I'm willing to pay over $200 for overnight delivery there and back, which I'm not.

I am not expecting it to be out my much if at all, maybe 2 degrees. But gonna do it anyway to cross it off the list. I've got the wideband hooked up so I can keep an eye on mixtures, and if it is out at all then I certainly won't be boosting anywhere until I get a tune. I just wanted to make sure I can drive it to the tuners once it's all setup.

Pardon my potential retardedness, but what on earth is the point adjusting cam timing without the car on a dyno anyway? Where did you get the settings you're gonna use without it being on a dyno to know they the most efficient?

The cam specs card that came with the cams. Tomei tell you what the settings SHOULD be, and in a perfect world they would be spot on every time. But every motor is different, and Type-B cams have been known to be out on occasion. Couple that with having my head decked potentially altering the deck height, I need to make sure the cams are in the right spot.

Pardon my potential retardedness, but what on earth is the point adjusting cam timing without the car on a dyno anyway? Where did you get the settings you're gonna use without it being on a dyno to know they the most efficient?

When you deck the block and head, or run a different gasket, or even just run certain brands of cams you need to set them back to true zero. The belt will throw out the position as the distance from cam to crank changes with those mods.

You need to degree them to find true zero and then you can dial them for 'gains' on the dyno, knowing where true zero is. Otherwise you could chase your tail for HOURS on the dyno trying to find something that works, which you may never.

VCT side is adjustable from stock boys. Hanaldo you will just need an exhaust side gear.

Trev amazing that you had to skip a tooth to get it right. That is just whack.

Hanaldo why don't you get Stao to update your G3 to the newer small trim compressor before you hit the rollers? Seeing as you're on the job already you may as well do it once and do it right.

This! Do this Martin :P

I've already paid enough shipping lately! So Be a Man... Dooooo da right fing!

Send your turbo to Stao!!! Naaaaaaaaow!

E-go mate, why didn't I find them sooner. Aust post can suck a big one.

Send it depot to depot and get half price express, there is one in Campbellfield. ;)

I thought the 56T compressor didn't make any extra power? I could be wrong, I wasn't looking for a power gain when I saw the result..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...