Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You are actually moving an engine from the wrecker in the trunk of a Skyline??

;):thumbsup:

ons only, so Power vs Boost generated from it would be identical to any other healthy standard RB25dets.

Engine:

96 model RB25det engine bought from local wrecker.

1.jpg

The compressor map with the standard high flow would be identical as:

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...60-15comp_e.jpg

Since its running the same size wheel in same size housing.

Further updates:

The ARP bolts, Bearings and full Gasket set cost $691.

gaskets.jpg

Engine come back horned and cleaned ($535). The job was abit rough thou, I spent hours buffing out the left over residuals from previous head gasket, Which I paid to get it cleaned. Any way:

Engine block with pistons back in and head assembled:

engine.jpg

engine2.jpg

piston.jpg

engine2-1.jpg

engine3.jpg

engine4.jpg

engine5.jpg

head.jpg

Well original goal of building this engine is not for that wow factor, I just need a very solid standard engine to evaluate max power out put on 98 fuel for all high flow profiles and bolton ATR43s. So Power vs Boost vs RPM would be identical with the same turbo on any standard RB25dets. This is also a None Neo motor, Neo engines would pickup better power and response.

Results with fully moded head, cams, and manifold would be deceptive as no one else has the same mod. But I will get them to run with race fuel and Nos after the evaluation for abit of fun :whistling: .

Link G4 Ecu

hiflowed turbo

550cc injectors

3" dump/exhaust gutted cat

intercooler

bosch 040 fuel pump

5puk exceedy clutch

and wind that up to 20psi and watch the figures climb haha

Hi Guys, I'v just bought a fully stock R33 of JSA 2 weeks ago. I'm looking to get me turbo high flowed and make some power. Can you give me a list of recommended mods? Cheers.

If its just been complianced there are few of things to be done:

1. Install a front mount cooler (we can supply).

2. Install a strong clutch (recommend Xtreme clutch kits at Ace Brakes ) if your is stock.

3. Install a full 3inch turbo back exhaust with a honeycomb cat. (JSA are Xforce dealers they should have plenty).

4. Get a set of 550cc / 700cc injectors (Try Cjmotors).

5. Get a Z32 AFM. Try Japart or see if JSA's got one.

6. Get a 3inch metal induction pipe made up (Try Glenroy exhaust) and get your self a good pod filter.

7. Get a PFC or Z32 ECU with Nistune chip (You can get that done at my recommended tuners).

8. Bring pass your stock turbo and have a chat, we have few different profiles and turbine housings to choice from.

9. With few hours of Dyno time at Dr.drift or Status your car would be pretty sweet to drive.

Another update:

This is a OP6 high flow that we did for a customer's R33 (none Neo engine) earlier using our updated turbine wheel. It made 241rwkws at 15psi full boost by 3450RPMs with 98 fuel. I'm pretty happy with it, Dyno sheet showing results of tuned maps before and after high flow. It made more power every where without more lag.

The other thing that I'm pleased with is the power curve which sits lot more gradual instead of linear. So the wheels will be able to convert lot more of those energy onto acceleration momentum.

op6highflow241rwkw.jpg

Hi mate, am interested in a Hi Flow Turbo..

looking at running around 230rwkw..

How much does it cost to Hi-flow my current turbo I got a gT-t r34.

& do i take it to my mechanic for a straight bolt on?

I have a new front mount intercooler,

Clutch.

Do i need an ECU?

Whats the cheapest ECU I Can get?

The cost to high flow is $960 inc GST and braided oil feeding line. Every thing bolt back on. The cheapest ECU option would be getting a Nistune ECU installed and you need a set of at least 550cc injectors and a Z32 AFM. Will get you 230rwkws with 14psi of boost.

With The Nistune ECU you can order direct from Matt on: [email protected] its $350 installed. Some of your local tuners can also install it as a package with the tune.

Also some update with my engine build:

The engine build has been complete and it is now back into the car. How ever it floods it self every time I crank. I guess I have to toll it to Sam to play with the map. Not having much luck with it this time.

Hi Stao,

i been thinking to Hiflow my turbo for a while now, just wondering once u guys Hiflow it do i need to upgrade my ECU straight away

or car i still drive on it till i get around to buy my new ecu

thanks

I would assume you shouldn't have any problems driving it around on low boost with standard ECU for a while.

Though having said that, it comes with a high pressure actuator, so you will have a lot of trouble driving it around without overboosting.

I will be receiving mine soon, and will need to drive it on stock ECU to the tuner after fitting. I'm not looking forward to that part lol.

I'd recommend (as I'm sure others will too) to just save up some more, and get it done at the same time as other necessary supporting mods (injectors, fuel pump and ECU)

Hi Stao,

i been thinking to Hiflow my turbo for a while now, just wondering once u guys Hiflow it do i need to upgrade my ECU straight away

or car i still drive on it till i get around to buy my new ecu

thanks

Once turbo is high flowed you can still run about 10psi with stock ECU and 98 fuel. There will still be a very noticeable difference in power and torque. It is recommended to go for a aftermarket ecu some injectors and etc to get the full potential of your car.

Some updates from yesterday:

Engine's build has been completed.

enginewbelt.jpg

enginenew3.jpg.JPG

enginenew2.jpg.JPG

Taking the old engine out with respect to its 6 month service.

engineold.jpg.JPG

turboold.jpg.JPG

engineout.jpg.JPG

New engine is dumped in, alone with a evaluation subject: OP6 high flow

enginein.jpg.JPG

turbonew.jpg.JPG

How ever the engine fouls plug on crank. Tolled it to Dr.drift today and hopping for the best

Stao/anyone who may know:

I am intending on at the very least running this as my temp setup until I can get a hard intake setup made, will this flow 18psi through an ATR43G2 without causing restriction?

3" turbo inlet > 3" to 2.5" silicon adapter > standard R33 intake piping with 3" steel pipe mod to stop sucking closed > pod filter

the 2.5" silicon after the turbo is my concern, but I've heard that it won't cause an airflow problem as long as the intake piping doesn't suck itself closed.

Confirm/deny? Thanks :ermm:

Here are 3x dyno sheets for your reference as stock intake system, stock intake pipe with metal insert didn't work. I also believe your friend Pat experienced very difference result before and after upgrading to 3inch metal intake with pod. His comments are in page 39.

Results:

1. ATR43G2 Stock intake pipe with air box no filter. Intake pipe sucking shut.

atr43g3badrun.jpg

2. ATR45 running stock intake pipe with metal sleeve stopping it from shutting with pod filter. (left)

ATR45 running 3inch metal intake pipe with pod filter. (right)

The sleeve insert run ended early as it not only restricting power, it did some thing strange (knocking?) and inconsistency in AFM reading. This run ended early.

atr45intakecompare.JPG

So please use a 3 inch or better 4 inch intake pipe with a good flow pod filter. Or at least use that for tuning.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...