Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi every one I'm back to business. The Kia project in China is completed but disappointed in the way of how it has been organized, some of you might already seen my update on Facebook.

Updating with some video footages from xxxRicho's R33 running the latest R33 turbo high flow with 294rwkws (E85) at
21uhfvs.jpg

Motul ADVAN World Time Attack 2013 Club Sprint ending in 5th

Have any of you guys used the Kando oil/water line kit to fit up your SS1/SS2 turbos?

They state this is made for the stock turbo in the stock location.

Link:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Oil-Water-Line-Stock-T3-Nissan-Skyline-RB25DET-6AN-/271306380797?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2b1ed5fd&_uhb=1

Used Kando lines on my low mount standard manifold IWG SS2. Fits perfectly.

sex, thanks Josh will order now :)

Stao was a little hesitant on saying if it fits (fair enough)

Am also using Kando lines with my SS1PU on my SR20.

I simply used the banjo Stao provided and screwed the -4AN kando line onto that. The rest work a treat!

  • Like 1

Yea true.

Some updates on the new SS1PU turbocharger prototype that is due for trailing very soon. So basically I still want the current SS1PU's response but with a lot more power. Well here it is:

ss1pufront.jpg

ss1purear.jpg

What are the changes Stao?

I was thinking the turbine on your current highflow seems to be of made of stardust or something, and was wondering if that technology can be carried over the the SS1PU?

I flat out think a 2IU highflow on my SR would be crazy.. I'm so tempted to try.

The compressor is the newer gen 11 blade SS compressor I'm sure. They are all using that now.

But I notice Stao is actually using his T3 5 bolt rear housing, so that means the bearing case and turbine wheel are no longer the GT28 sized item.

Stao I am SERIOUSLY interested in this turbo... It may complement my T3 highmount setup I have lurking in the garage. Please share results ASAP!

Damn, you take a very impressive photo of a turbo haha..

Really considering getting a new turbo soon, as I am already sick of the t04e.. And think the seals are starting to leak a little.

Also not very good on the street, I know you said an sspu1.5 but that was a while back and maybe things have changed a little with the way there improved.

For an rb20det. I'm at 171kw and don't see and boost until about 4,400-4,600rmp.

Anything over 200kw and a little more responsive and I'll be stoked :)

Yellow jackets, Z32 afm & yellow jackets are also ready to go in when I have enough for a hypergear turbo + tune

This is a new turbine side design for a Rb25det it is different to whats in the standard high flows, I really want it to make more power with better response as if possible.

hy_rpm: I did make a 11 blade 60mm compressor wheel for the SR20det motors as well as a 64mm and a 68mm wheel. I believe the maximum that a SS1PU turbine can perform on a SR20det would be towards 250rwkws with cams on pump 98, so those are really targeting at the responsive end.

ZRBE: As for the RB20det my recommendation would be the 64mm billet SS1 turbocharger. it has similar response to a 2530 with abit more power.

  • Like 1

We will stick to the original plan and I'll be using e85 so high boost 25psi

You suggested to try a ss1.5 fnt .86ar due to high boost and s14 comp housing so will be bolt on and go from there

260-270rwkw should be achievable if the turbine is capable of 250rwkw on pump 98

As pump usually caps the boost to 20psi as more than that is pushing it due to pinging and heat but e85 allows me to run 5psi more boost which should net me 25kw we see

Thanks

Also that's what I was after similar power and response to the hks2530 as that was my last turbo setup on my sr20det and I was happy with that it made 250rwkw on 22psi dropping 19psi on eflex full boost by 3400rpm

I was happy and wouldn't have changed it but the bearings got noisy in it

So would I be better with the .64 or with struggle with 25psi as that's what the 2530 had

Depending on whats struggling. At that boost level it could be the compressor or the turbine, I think its more of the compressor end. I've pmed you with some recommendations if you would like to trail them out. I'll be happy modifying them free to reach your performance target.

+1 for the above - He really will.

Is that new thing suitable for, I dunno, some guy wanting to run a low mount smallish turbo at 28psi on a RB28 auto sedan? ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...