Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Evo 8 stock block

Fic 1120 cc injectors

Deatchwerks 300 fuel pump rewired

Caltex eflex

K&n panel filter std airbox

Ces racing exhaust turbo back split dump pipe screamer

Gsc s1 cams

Hypergear slss2 hi flow evo 9 turbo 25.5 psi 4400-4500rpm

SLSS2 is making 285AWKWs so far. I think it will stop making power just under 300awkws at 29psi.

285awkw.jpg

Stao what about run a big compressor wheel in a small turbine housing then use a large internal waste gate to compensate heat and flow? I have seen few turbos from Euro cars been made that way like the Audi K03 and K04. Might be a good thing to try on.

They only work with low boost level applications, some thing under 16psi would work great. The compressor and turbine end must be welly balanced. As in the back pressure needs to be similar to boost pressure so forces generated naturalizes.

At moment with the SR its matter of evaluating different wheels and housings for some data. Once the limitation of compressor and turbine is determined, I can then mix-match or make some thing very specifically to suit either end of the turbocharger. That way I have a balance flowed turbocharger that makes good power for its response and last.

SLSS2 is making 285AWKWs so far. I think it will stop making power just under 300awkws at 29psi.

285awkw.jpg

So this is the turbo I bought for my 2.3 stroker evo Stao? I was hoping for a little more than that... :P

Stao,

have there been any updates for the CT12a turbos, one of mine pissed its pant suit on the way to work this morning.

Just looking at options at this stage...Is it possible for you to supply a manifold, gate and TD06 or similar turbo to suit a 1J?

Thanks

Zeb

For reversed turbine wheels there sin't that much of option yet available. Need to see what I can find.

KAMAK make a 9 blade SL2 wheel, I believe they call it their STS wheel. Why don't you guys try this? No machine work required, just assemble and balance.

Its meant to be a much lighter wheel, too. It has the potential for very snappy throttle response with the billet compressor.

We can high flow them and they will be good enough to support 300rwkws on a manual with supporting mods. Lot of work is involved in doing it how ever. So it might be working out cheaper with an high mount, but depending on what it is.

The cost to high flow both CT12As is $1800 and they needs braided oil and water lines after high flowing.

Alternatively, you can use our ATR43G3, SS2 or SS3 depending on what sort of power you are after. G3 is $900, while SS2/3 is $1150. 50mm HPVA gate that Ive been using on the R33 is $300 with the turbocharger. and Brae manifold is $1100.

KAMAK make a 9 blade SL2 wheel, I believe they call it their STS wheel. Why don't you guys try this? No machine work required, just assemble and balance.

Its meant to be a much lighter wheel, too. It has the potential for very snappy throttle response with the billet compressor.

There not reverse rotation only very few people sell reverse rotation turbines in the us

There not reverse rotation only very few people sell reverse rotation turbines in the us

Kamak definitely make a 9 blade reverse TD06SL2, just need to ask.

Need to ask brae on this. Usually about weekish.

Cool

So, If I said I want a turbo with a big midrange, going on to make around the 300rwkw mark on 98 what would you suggest? the SS2?

Would be after something with a V-band dump pipe set up preferably.

The SS2 would be the most reliable turbo for this setup. The externally gated version usually comes with a Plate which a 3 inch metal pipe can be attached to as the font pipe. Or a Vband assembly extension that cost $100 additional.

details are at:

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=72&product_id=54

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...