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Yeah, more or less I don't want to risk the motor just yet. It's my daily car to get to work and I kinda need it :P more or less I told him to play it extra safe up top, so he took as much timing out as he could without letting exhaust gas get too hot, and then added fuel as you can see by the 11.5:1 AFR. He was trying to get top end power as low as he could, while still getting the response in the mid range.

Looks like your tuner's trying to stop it from going over 300rwkws. Never less good result

More like the boost drops off.

It's boost control, not tuner IMO.

17psi --> 15psi :P

Nah it's both Nismoid. I was running NO boost controller, so that boost curve is entirely the actuator. If we had boost control set up, we would have it hold a flat 17psi....fact of the matter is, my tuner really didn't want to push it too far on an internally stock '93 RB25, so he did try to get the peak power as low as he could. Like I said above your post, he removed as much timing as he could before it started to have a negative effect on exhaust temps, and made it relatively rich on 11.5AFR.

He doesn't have as much confidence in stock internals as a lot of other people (inc myself) do, which is a good thing imo. He's making sure that it's not going to snap a rod bolt or something when I ring it's tits off lol

it would definitely have seen over 300 with timing and a tad less fuel up top. That's why I posted the AFR chart too.

Your AFR's looks abit too rich thou... The green afr looks more healthier. Once you bleed out some of that fuel it will give you lot better power curve all around. I mean unburnt fuel burns inside your exhaust which can also cause high exhaust gas temp, plus they can thin and carbonate (make it black) your engine oil.

I wouldn't worry about the engine at 15psi as long as its tuned detonation free. Factory pistons and con-rods have no issues handle 300rwkws detonation free.

I would get it retuned to about 12.3~12.5 consistent AFR with bit more timing. That saves you fuel, improves driving ability, won't carbon coat every thing and do the enviroment a favor :P .

Edited by kwickr33
Your AFR's looks abit too rich thou... The green afr looks more healthier. Once you bleed out some of that fuel it will give you lot better power curve all around. I mean unburnt fuel burns inside your exhaust which can also cause high exhaust gas temp, plus they can thin and carbonate (make it black) your engine oil.

Richer AFRs will drop the combustion temps though which is a good thing.

lol if the fuel and timing change, I'll do it myself. Since I don't know how, they're staying there :P I can't afford to pay for another tune lol.

I'll see how it goes after a couple of tanks....once I'm 100% there's no further issues with how the car's running, I'm going to be looking into E85 anyway. Then I'll be taking it up to Sydney for the tune I spose.

Your AFR's looks abit too rich thou... The green afr looks more healthier. Once you bleed out some of that fuel it will give you lot better power curve all around. I mean unburnt fuel burns inside your exhaust which can also cause high exhaust gas temp, plus they can thin and carbonate (make it black) your engine oil.

I wouldn't worry about the engine at 15psi as long as its tuned detonation free. Factory pistons and con-rods have no issues handle 300rwkws detonation free.

I would get it retuned to about 12.3~12.5 consistent AFR with bit more timing. That saves you fuel, improves driving ability, won't carbon coat every thing and do the enviroment a favor :P .

Detonation isn't the only thing that will kill a motor mate.

IMO his tuner has done a smart thing.

On a built motor, ye lean it up a bit once its all running nicely... However a stocker motor demands the respect of owners wishes

Good to see another way of doing it!

However, for the guys with larger turbos I am sure it would be beneficial to go straight to 3" as quickly as possible from the turbo. I know its the not exactly the same but its sort of like a bellmouth if it goes straight to the largest diameter. Thats my theory anyway.

Here is my intake pipe! I am very happy with how it turned out. It took a few cuts to get it right. It fits in perfectly. I forgot to get a photo with it installed. Tao gave me a spare bov hard return line which I cut and connected to the port welded on to the intake pipe in the photos. I have neglected the pcv connection as its not required functionally. I might go back later and do that as well.

Car is booked in for tomorrow to get the tune adjusted, cant wait!

post-29432-1287980179_thumb.jpg

post-29432-1287980185_thumb.jpg

I was pretty happy with it!

I was shocked that the 90 deg bend was the perfect fit. Even if you had some pipe that you could mould, the 90 deg bend is still exactly what you want. Cant wait to see the results tomorrow.

Trozzle, can you go for a drive in 4th gear and record rpm vs speed...

As in at 4000rpm you are doing 115km/hr?

Sorry I'd completely forgotten about this!

3000rpm looked to be about 88kph...so, 122kph = 4159rpm, which is where I achieved 17psi. I'm sure this response would be greatly improved if I were using an electronic boost controller of some sort. I believe the boost control in the ViPEC works in a way that as soon as it hits Xrpm (2000rpm in my settings) it begins pulsing the actuator with the intake pressure or something. If I set it to hold 17psi but not start pulsing until 4000rpm, this may improve my boost response and come on a bit earlier.

Run a $50 adjustable ebay exhaust cam gear. That will help with response.

I'm producing a small batch of 5 Ceramic ball bearing ATR43G3s in .70 and .82 turbine for trail at the same price as our regular ATR43G3s. In case they fail, you will be replaced with a standard sleeve bearing ATR43G3.

This will be the Duel ceramic ball bearing version of below:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosh...g3p2290rwkw.jpg

Warranty period is for 12 month. Let me know if any one are interested to trail.

Run a $50 adjustable ebay exhaust cam gear. That will help with response.

I'm producing a small batch of 5 Ceramic ball bearing ATR43G3s in .70 and .82 turbine for trail at the same price as our regular ATR43G3s. In case they fail, you will be replaced with a standard sleeve bearing ATR43G3.

This will be the Duel ceramic ball bearing version of below:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosh...g3p2290rwkw.jpg

Warranty period is for 12 month. Let me know if any one are interested to trail.

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh NOOOOOO, just as I'm swapping over to a RB25 you do this!

Pitty I'm running out of money, I'll just have to stick with my ATR43G3 0.63 rear :)

Run a $50 adjustable ebay exhaust cam gear. That will help with response.

I'm producing a small batch of 5 Ceramic ball bearing ATR43G3s in .70 and .82 turbine for trail at the same price as our regular ATR43G3s. In case they fail, you will be replaced with a standard sleeve bearing ATR43G3.

This will be the Duel ceramic ball bearing version of below:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosh...g3p2290rwkw.jpg

Warranty period is for 12 month. Let me know if any one are interested to trail.

You can stick this in my turbo if you want :)

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