Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks so much for the info! I've emailed them.

On a side note , now I'm not sure if it's mapping issues or vct because after plugging in, I'm still hitting boost late at 4k ish. And now car feels heavy at 2-3k rpm.

21u should be all in by 3.5k in 3rd and 4th gear when loaded up.

Stock actuator. So 7 psi

I believe jet was asking if you've pre-loaded up the actuator... also when the RPM was graphed, was it derived from road speed or through an inductive pick-up?

Some videos from last weekend. This is 1JZGTE none vvti engine powered R31 Wagon running our ATR43G3SAT Ceramic ball bearing turbocharger making 330rwkrws on E85 fuel. Car Owned and Driven by Jason F.

  • Like 1

ATR43G3SAT in Ceramic ball bearing is the most responsive one out of all. The TD06SL205 in 10cm is the next and ATR43SS3 is the least, but how ever made the most power.

ATR43G3SAT is a very different turbo to the standard G3 with different wheels and housings all together. Dyno reading shown it is more responsive then a GT3076 or any kinds of a TD06. Below is CBB version, internally gated, on stock manifold, P98 fuel built as a bolton turbo.

power.JPG

boost.JPG

I have trailed many other prototypes in similar kind and this particular one is the far best.

Other thing worth mentioning is Tomei cams on RB25det didn't do much good part from adding 250RPM worth of laggier, which I ended up converting it back to stock. and still made 431rwkws.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...