Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are your intake temps? if you're hitting over 60, time for a new FMIC. You'll be surprised at the power gain to be had with decent IATs.

On 2/20/2017 at 8:21 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

What are your intake temps? if you're hitting over 60, time for a new FMIC. You'll be surprised at the power gain to be had with decent IATs.

What is the best way to check intake temps Johnny?

I used a thin 1.5mm thick K thermocouple between a hose and the fmic with the sensing part around the middle of the flow. Plug it to an egt gauge and you have a reasonably accurate iat reading.

 

I made a measurement on my car last year and with 30℃ ambient temp the iat rose to 43℃ near the limiter in fourth.

 

 

 

 

 

8 hours ago, kingtube69 said:

What is the best way to check intake temps Johnny?

either buy a compatible IAT sensor and weld it on the cold side of your IC (never install it into your plenum like the OEM 32/33 GTR as it heat soaks) and run it back to your ECU or just a basic gauge on eBay with an open sensor (probably wrong term used) ie fast sensor not the solid ones that react slow similar to your oil/water sensor 

Just for the record the IC Tao uses is shown in P550 of this thread . I didn't go back far enough initially but chased a link to it from elsewhere .

I'll be ordering one Monday and looking into the 100 C cat as well .

Also my IAT sensor is in the back of my cast X over pipe and I'm wondering if it is heat soaking because of it .

A .

Just for the record the IC Tao uses is shown in P550 of this thread . I didn't go back far enough initially but chased a link to it from elsewhere .
I'll be ordering one Monday and looking into the 100 C cat as well .
Also my IAT sensor is in the back of my cast X over pipe and I'm wondering if it is heat soaking because of it .
A .

Iat sensor is fine there. I have mine there and it only heat soaks if the engine is off. Doesn't take long to go back to normal once driving.

I'll have to take some logs next weekend. Mine is on the cold side right behind the radiator and it heat soaks incredibly bad.
If you turn the car off and come back a few minutes later and go to drive it feels like its around 60+deg and for me thats around -5 deg timing. It takes a long non stop drive for the power to come back slowly. Even though the sensor has an insulation seal, it doesn't stop the radiator heat from soaking into the sensor itself.

I will be moving it to the chassis rails section of the ic.

Hey Tao I was wondering if maybe I could get a quote to rebuild my stock r33 gtst s1 turbo was on your site earlier just trying to get ballpark figure im also located in okinawa if thats gonna be an issue shipping and all?

Hi, we can supply a donor turbo for $150 so you will not need to send one in. The cost to high flow is $850 for G2 that is made for stock ecu and fuel system, while the upsized G3 cost $900, that supports around 260rwkws on P98 fuel, but will require a custom tune and bigger injectors to work. postage to Okinawa is about $150. Oil line is included in price quoted. 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

 

3 minutes ago, -S- said:

Guys,

Let's say the vtc plug wasn't connected during a tune... does the car require a retune if u connect the vtc plug?

Yes.

The tune should be checked either way.  VCT changes both the engine VE and the build of cylinder pressure, which means timing and fuelling requirements will change with versus without VCT engaged.

  • 4 weeks later...
17 minutes ago, inmaniac said:

Hey guys.

Just wondering who here has experience with the standard "G2" high flow and what your real world results were?

Cheers!

I'll be honest with you, if you go through the efforts of removing the stock turbo to replace, you might as well go for something that's going to be of a decent size.

Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'll be honest with you, if you go through the efforts of removing the stock turbo to replace, you might as well go for something that's going to be of a decent size.

Thanks for the reply dude.

I was thinking the same thing, and therefore I wanted to go G3, but my understanding is the wastegate for this is set to 18psi. I'm hearing conflicting things that this might be too much boost for my 209xxx km engine (despite being well maintained, 200k service, etc)

Happy to hear opinions. Supporting mods: NISTune, Z32AFM,3in Turbo back + high flow cat, Walbro 255, 550cc injectors.

Goal was originally 240rwkw but am happy to temper expectations based on reliability.

Nah, that's rubbish. It's not boost that blows apart motors, it's timing and or torque.

I "had" a 300 000+ motor running with 1.8bar worth of boost for a good amount of time and thrashed regularly at the track too. It died about 3 years later lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
×
×
  • Create New...