Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cheers for the input guys, but im not interested in top feed or e85 at this stage. i've seen and read about mad power with hi flowed side feeds. and Z32 i got off my mate he had it on his r32 gtr that was running 370kw with it.

seeing what my power figures could be with this set up or if anyone here has the same sort of set up in their 33 to let me know how it is

  

Well, you chose your turbo.  It's able to go to the upper end of your stated power range.  But your fuel pump will maybe no get there and the intercooler will start to cost you.  There is a whole lot of discussion on these very points in this very thread.

ive read some making that power walbro 255 just 600pages worth trying to find what i need to know and specially other topics trying to search. my cooler is 620 x 266 x 76mm im hoping thats good enough to maintain 260kw ive read that some made way more than that with one 

I personally wouldn't buy a used Z32, as it's already copped wear and tear and prone to failure.

If you don't want to go top feed (most logical choice), then get 740cc Nismo sidefeeds OR 555cc Nismo. Do not get any other brand, or anything Five-O or re-manufactured "JECS" crap off eBay. Yes they will "work" but chances are they will seize up one day and you'll suffer from absolutely poor fuel economy.

255 will be ok, just hard wire it in.

29 minutes ago, AndreW_R32 said:

ive read some making that power walbro 255 just 600pages worth trying to find what i need to know and specially other topics trying to search. my cooler is 620 x 266 x 76mm im hoping thats good enough to maintain 260kw ive read that some made way more than that with one 

It's not the size of the core.  It's the end tanks and pipework that cost flow and increase pressure drop.  The increased pressure drop reports to increased exhaust manifold pressure (from increased work required to drive the compressor) and thus limits how much boost turns into flow.  Negatives feed on negatives.

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, AndreW_R32 said:

hi i would love to get a G3 turbo upgrade done for my S2 R33 gtst and to make around 260-300kw mark.

i have 

- blitz return flow fmic

-dump pipe/high flow cat/ 3" straight pipe

- walbro 255 fuel pump

-manual boost controller

-i will be installing Z32 AFM

-currently stock but looking at jecs 555cc injectors / adjustable fuel pressure reg

-and at the end get a nistune done

unopened RB25DET

i have read a lot but all so many different results some with out dyno results for proof so i come to the source hoping this will be enough to hit these numbers, cheers!

 

If its an R33 GTST I recommending using Adaptronic plug in ecu instead of Nistune and Z32 AFM. We can give an bondal  discount 

The Return flow cooler kit will be a limitation, if you are targeting 250rwkws thats fine, but for 300rwkws you will need a proper front mount cooler kit. I have personally tested PWR 600x300x79mm and thats the best performer I have used so far. 

For injectors, I would avoid ebay Jecs. Nismo 550cc and Deschwerks worked better.  or ID1000 injectors with aftermarket fuel rail if u want E85.  

 

35 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Nah Nistune works Tao, if you're using a R32 one with the latest feature pack.

Does flex, controls VCT

VCT as well? You don't need a separate switch now?

8 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

VCT as well? You don't need a separate switch now?

Not at all, and you can set it when it comes off/on as well!

Injectors can be scaled via a Total Injector Multiplier (TIM), R35 AFM all listed in the AFM setup (can even choose tube size). Full flex and even reverse flex too, ie compensation tables pull timing not add.

This means you can have a primary E85 map and a map that has timing pulled with fuel pulled depending on concentration.

Lastly you can even adjust the blend curve too for both ignition and fueling.

cheers for the replies and info i'll be looking at parts and when to do turbo as its my daily :D  

there isnt a way to squeeze an extra 10kw to make it 260kw with my blitz fmic ;) 

ive heard good things about nistune n Z32 but i take your word hypergear you guys do amazing work! 

any links for good value nismo injectors? cheers

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Did you not read what I said about the Z32? Install a R35 AFM, especially because you have the option and choice to 

hey man forgot to reply to it my bad. how much more is it? as im trying to stick to a budget. the z32 ive got is pretty clean was only used for about 4 weeks. with a g3 turbo and my set up would love to see how much i can get out of it on the dyno. forgot to add i have yellow jacket coilpacks in.

  • Haha 1
6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

oh dear

lol ive had no issues with em for couple years or so. including my mates r33 that his had for years too. my mate bought new splitfire and didnt last a year in his R32 poor bugger 

Sounds like your mate may have purchased fake Splitfires.

Those Red, Yellow, Black (trying not to discriminate) eBay coil packs won't perform once you start to go above stock boost. Ask any tuner, and I'm sure they won't have anything positive to say.

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Sounds like your mate may have purchased fake Splitfires.

Those Red, Yellow, Black (trying not to discriminate) eBay coil packs won't perform once you start to go above stock boost. Ask any tuner, and I'm sure they won't have anything positive to say.

he had old yellow jackets laying around and installed them til he got new splitfires. the YJ he had no issues and even drove to sydney n back thrashed it around the hills never caused a problem. but he has splitfires now. ive read a lot through this n dyno page a lot making good power with similar set up. 

Yellow Jackets are a lottery.  Many more people have problems with them and the shitty red ones and the other rainbow types than with Splitfires.  Old Splitfires eventually play up, just like OEM coils.  YJ can play up on day 1.

Fake Splitfires are a thing.  All you have to do is make YJ equivalents and make them blue and put them in a fake box.  It has happened and it will keep happening.

And in the era of Yaris/Audi/R35 etc coils, it really doesn't matter.  You can have coils that are twice as good for less $$ than a set of YJ anyway.

1 hour ago, AndreW_R32 said:

he had old yellow jackets laying around and installed them til he got new splitfires. the YJ he had no issues and even drove to sydney n back thrashed it around the hills never caused a problem. but he has splitfires now. ive read a lot through this n dyno page a lot making good power with similar set up. 

How much boost, what turbo is on your mate's car?

I've thrown out 3 sets of rainbow coloured coilpacks from people's cars i've tuned. My own car, I've cooked 2 out of 6 YJs.. replaced them with 2x new ones, guess what - the others died. Bit the bullet and bought brand new original/genuine Splitfires. Old motor had 1.8bar of boost into it, zero misfires.

So up to you, you sound like you know what is best for your car :)

 

if they play up and cause issues i will change them to something better but for now im leaving em in. and i know about the fakes and the red ones etc. not dissing just trying to figure out what is best for what i have atm. he was running 1.2 bar with them. but 1.8 i would understand you want top of the line stuff for that power :) 

if anything happens to em i will upgrade to splits. currently looking at injectors to order but not sure to go with nismo 550 or id1000. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...