Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Updating result with ATR46SS-1 turbo with a custom T3 .82 rear housing. So the car originally pulled 652rwkws maxing out 3 inches turboback exhaust and current external gate spring:

image.thumb.jpeg.97248311f36afc126ddf40ee876fe962.jpeg

20230919_192157382_002(1).thumb.jpg.6797d3ab879d6e0c2188cb11818b0497.jpg

 

A bleeder pipe added to the front pipe, and stronger actuator spring added to the external gate. Unfortuantely we are reaching the torque limiter of the dyno, so we did a short run in 5th gear. The car have managed to pull 718rwkws @ 37psi on E85 fuel before breaking the gear box. 

20231102_205154623_001.thumb.jpg.f36969dc38cec3e2adb5a13c780e04d1.jpg

20231102_205154623_002.thumb.jpg.23d96a216ba80f83d902fcc7b51a00c6.jpg

Refresh build details:

Engine Specs: 
Rb25det head with forged Rb30det bottom
Forged pistons and con-rod
Upgraded Valve springs
HKS step 1, 256/ 264 drop in cams
5-0 Crank trigger kit

Fuel system: 
1650cc Bosch fuel injectors
Two 460L fuel pumps

ECU: 
Haltech ECU

Turbo side: 
Hypergear ATR46SS-1Turbocharger
6 boost high mount exhaust manifold
Turbosmart 50mm external gates
3.5 inches turbo back exhaust with 2.5 inches bleeder pipe

Hub Dyno Tune: Chequeredtuning Victoria

Edited by hypergear
  • Like 5
  • 4 weeks later...

hey guys

i have a 21u G3 that im about to install and am getting the car tuned after, only problem is i live 150kms away from my tuner. do u reccon it would be ok to drive it that distance after installing the g3 if i leave the stock waste gate actuator on it for the trip?

my r33 has been previously tuned still with the stock turbo and a boost T currently making about 10psi. so would it be fine to drive it with the g3 installed just for that 150km distance or dont risk it?

cheers 

You should be able to drive it the whole way, even with the (presumed) high boost actuator fitted.

Just stay off boost. It should be easy enough. I drive 28km to and from work each morning and some days never see a sniff of positive manifold pressure.

The highflow is laggier than the stock turbo, and has less restriction (in both the exhaust and comp side) so the car will drive better off boost than it did before anyway. My car is more torquey off boost than it was with the stocker, and it takes more provocation to build any boost.

  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...
On 24/09/2022 at 9:03 AM, hypergear said:

For ATR43SS-2 on Rb25det motor, The recommended rear housing is in T3 .63 size.

 

Any chance these fit low mounted?

6 hours ago, Adz2332 said:

 

Any chance these fit low mounted?

Yes, They can be built as an internally gated stock hot side bolton unit. External gate / External plumb back kits are also available. 

IMG_20231130_134533.thumb.jpg.51344603477334b2d8670284902bf98f.jpg

 

IMG_20231130_133941.thumb.jpg.ae41759b83ca924f9818b2042dd3a39d.jpg

 

IMG_20231129_163207.thumb.jpg.04c09851f59f2abd1a29889ea1363927.jpg

Yes the external kits bolts on stock exhaust manifold and fits factory front pipe.  Fits R33 and R34 chassis only

gateonturbinehousing.thumb.jpg.5de7ac09c68b247c9f702ead93cdc986.jpg

 

enginebay.thumb.jpg.86489bbf652c0048eb68e1b805e1d4ca.jpg

Edited by hypergear
  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Tao

i was having think about A/R specs on the stock OP6 turbo, which i believe is .64, and was wondering...

Does highflowing a turbo change the A/R? or more specifically reduce it?  as i assume the inlet area stays the same but the exducer radius increases or am i thinking about this incorrectly.

1 hour ago, Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham said:

Hi Tao

i was having think about A/R specs on the stock OP6 turbo, which i believe is .64, and was wondering...

Does highflowing a turbo change the A/R? or more specifically reduce it?  as i assume the inlet area stays the same but the exducer radius increases or am i thinking about this incorrectly.

Turbine A/R is calculated using the inlet area, not the exducer area. So the A/R remains the same when high flowing.

Edited by ggub

Just to further clarify that - the R in A/R is the radial distance of the location of the nozzle exit from the centreline of the turbine axis.

If the highflow job were to include opening up the nozzle at all, then the A would increase, and so would A/R. If the same opening up of the nozzle moved the centroid of the nozzle outward, then R would increase and A/R would decrease. And those effects probably cancel out sufficiently that the change in A/R would be immaterial.

I personally think Measurement in volumetric makes more sense, eg. 8cm^2 10cm^2 housings form Mitsubishi turbos. 

R is measured as center of the turbine wheel to center of nozzle throat of where Area is calculated. Installing larger turbine wheels without distorting the layout of the turbine housing makes no changes to A/R. 

When comes to milking power out of little 21U R33 turbine housings I usually remove a section of the nozzle for extra flow. Alteration in reposition of nozzle throat increases A/R in the way of how it has been calculated.

I did a bunch of FNT T3 .82 rear housing 13 years ago by adding a piece to the nozzle moving nozzle throat further down the snail, that counts as decreasing A/R of the housing. It did make a difference to in response however.

OP6 gets really laggy once the nozzle is removed (A/R+), I usually leave the factory layout. 

 

5 hours ago, hypergear said:

Measurement in volumetric

 

5 hours ago, hypergear said:

eg. 8cm^2 10cm^2 housings form Mitsubishi

 

Cross-sectional area perhaps? Rather than volumetric (which would be in cubic centimeters)?

And ugh to anything measured in centimeters. We're not dressmakers! Millimeters or meters. Otherwise what's to stop people using decimeters or decameters in  normal conversation?

  • 1 month later...

Updating results. This is from our ATR43SS3ProR model in T3 TS turbine housing. This turbo can be considered as an upgraded version of a G30-900. 

-ENGINE: RB25Det Neo
-CAR MAKE: Nissan
-MODEL: R33 GTST
-ENGINE BUILD SPECS: Forged bottom end with upgrade valve springs. 
-INJECTORS: Bosch 1600cc injectors with twin 460L Pump
-TURBO: HyperGear ATR43SS3ProR in T3 TS .82 rear housing
-CAMS: Stock rb25det
-FUEL TYPE: E85 fuel
-AUTO/MANUAL: PPG 6 Speed sequential
-Diff: Stock
-TORQUE: 755Mn
-HUB or CHASSIS DYNO: Hub dyno
-POWER OUTPUT: 
Green ATR43SS3ProR 512rwkws @ 27psi
Vs Purple TD06SL2-25G 437rwkws @ 27psi (Before turbo upgrade)
 

424921853_903140998480628_8249758684058492188_n.thumb.jpg.16cc31944e7ac2cec67a2da958dfd09d.jpg

424867420_903140968480631_1710317124541873600_n.thumb.jpg.2c1121488c59239c421993d782feacbe.jpg

424974671_903142871813774_33584613756481776_n.thumb.jpg.5edf278056e470573db4dd8b0ed12496.jpg

Dyno Vid:

 

 

  • Like 1

Hey Tao

I bought a 21U g3 highflow a few months back, was planning to put it on my rb25det. long story short i discovered i had to rebuild my engine. 

i have gone down the 25/30 route, what would happen if i just used my internally gated 21u g3 highflow on it? my power goal is 300kw. what other turbo could you recommend? also if i did go with a bigger turbo could i still stay internally gated?

cheers

The 21U turbo is too small for a RB2530det engine. It can work with one of our externally gated 6 bolt .82 rear housings. The housing comes as a kit with screamer pipe and turbosmart 45mm gate. 

  • Like 1

hey Tao
 

Is there any power/response differences between choosing your; plumb back external waste gate via the std exhaust manifold system and the turbo bleed off waste gated plumb back dump pipe? RB25 neo

Sorry if this is a dumb question

Good to see you've rose this question.  How much power the engine makes is determined by how much air this engine system can flow in a given period of time. So at given boost pressure a more free flow system processes more air, burns more fuel and makes more power. It is the reason that when identical turbochargers were built, cars that ended up with more power always had a better flow engine system.   

So you plumb the gate back, then exhaust flow will still be restricted by capacity of the exhaust. I've attached a dyno result from an earlier run which is External gate V External gate plumb back with nothing else changed out of a 3 inches turbo back exhaust. So in a simple answer, Externally gated system makes better power.

Older ATR43SS-2 turbo:

Green: External gate V Blue: External gate plumbed back

406419031_10160097690058865_8365649929606809998_n.thumb.jpg.47ed7764f4d5aa2b02d0cee05ae76316.jpg

 

406812727_10160097690193865_5446573995478796269_n.thumb.jpg.50af29e5df54407a4b9d85b8317d1e48.jpg

Edited by hypergear
  • Like 1

I might have misunderstood the question. In my opinion, external gate bleed off factory exhaust manifold should make more power as it is restrictive towards the turbo flange 

Edited by hypergear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...