Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

Also referring to your email. Your stock OP6 Neo turbo only made 180rwkws on 14psi which that should be way over 200rwkws any where else.

a stock turbo'd rb25 making "way over 200rwkw" on 14psi... stao, whatever you are on can you pls organise me a pound?

also trent's dyno with the appropriate correction reads the same as a dyno dynamics, my car has backed this up on 3-4 dyno's now

[Randon_I_Am]

Well my stock NEO turbo made 214rwkw on 11.5 psi... dynodynamics... That's a LOT better than 180...

[Trozzle]

Well my stock NEO turbo made 214rwkw on 11.5 psi... dynodynamics... That's a LOT better than 180...

And given my stock R33 RB25 series 1 turbo made 192rwkw on 11psi on the SAME DYNO, I'd say that the NEO turbo should clearly be making more than 180rwkw.

[Hanaldo]

Your definitely not going to lose 150hp through the drivetrain. More like 50 - 80 max.

So you really should be seeing an easy 260rwkw from this turbo, which is more like 350-360rwhp.

I have definitely got faith in Stao's products for the outcome he advertises them to produce, and his customer service is near second to none. You should definitely take him up on the offer of swapping his result proven turbo with yours, it will rule out ANY further question in the turbo itself. Like Stao has already told you, its not impossible that the turbo is faulty however it is far more likely that you have another problem somewhere else. I fully support Stao on this notion, and feel you may need to engage another workshop (after you have swapped turbos with him).

Can I ask what dump pipe you have on the car? Direct from the turbo to the cat, who makes the item and can you take a photo?

Fair enough, just a thought.

Looking forward to Stao's results with the turbo today. I am using a Tomei bellmouth dump/front pipe, I'll try to get a photo.

OK here's the post i started last page and got interrupted.

Hanaldo, hang in there! Take Stao up on his offer to send you a working tested turbo, swap it over yourself. drive it in to the dyno and get it tuned. If there aren't any more problems, and the tune is half done already then it shouldn't take more than 2 max hours on the dyno.

As for the power, I have an ATR43G2 .82 making PULP 270rwkw with boost dropping down to 15psi, E-Flex making 290rwkw with boost dropping down to 13.5 psi. I didn't even bother with setting my boost controller up on E-Flex to hold it higher...

All on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno.

And about your statement about buying this turbo for it's bolt on and concealiability. Here's a couple of pics of my engine bay. Remember this is a 290rwkw engine bay.

So yes you can make this turbo look very stock.

Well done on the engine bay, looks very stock indeed.

[Birds]

Yep, if I can make 167rwkw @ 7psi with a 2IU, and my friend made 200rwkw @ 12psi with his OP6...there is something else amiss here.

[Hanaldo]

Yep, if I can make 167rwkw @ 7psi with a 2IU, and my friend made 200rwkw @ 12psi with his OP6...there is something else amiss here.

As I said, not too worried about the number, it's just a number. My power curve on the stock turbo was fine.

When my car had the stock turbo it was tuned on Hyperdrives old dyno. Their dyno was known to read 20-30rwhp lower than all other dynos in the area, so the power figure would have been about right. Since I have had the new turbo, Hyperdrive haven't tuned my car with their own dyno.

[Harey]

I am using a Tomei bellmouth dump/front pipe, I'll try to get a photo.

Details please! Never heard of it!

[jrm]

And given my stock R33 RB25 series 1 turbo made 192rwkw on 11psi on the SAME DYNO, I'd say that the NEO turbo should clearly be making more than 180rwkw.

My R34 hit 182.7kw at 8psi untuned .. should be interesting to dyno again with a 10psi actuator fitted ..

[Harey]

OK here's the post i started last page and got interrupted.

Hanaldo, hang in there! Take Stao up on his offer to send you a working tested turbo, swap it over yourself. drive it in to the dyno and get it tuned. If there aren't any more problems, and the tune is half done already then it shouldn't take more than 2 max hours on the dyno.

As for the power, I have an ATR43G2 .82 making PULP 270rwkw with boost dropping down to 15psi, E-Flex making 290rwkw with boost dropping down to 13.5 psi. I didn't even bother with setting my boost controller up on E-Flex to hold it higher...

All on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno.

And about your statement about buying this turbo for it's bolt on and concealiability. Here's a couple of pics of my engine bay. Remember this is a 290rwkw engine bay.

So yes you can make this turbo look very stock.

Yeah who cares if the compressor cover is not factory with that airbox and scoop, you wouldnt be able to see it, nor would a cop bother after seeing it. Nice work! I gave up on trying to get the custom metal intake to fit the airbox nicely.

[Rolls]

Yeah who cares if the compressor cover is not factory with that airbox and scoop, you wouldnt be able to see it, nor would a cop bother after seeing it. Nice work! I gave up on trying to get the custom metal intake to fit the airbox nicely.

They will pick you up on it with a defect inspection though.

[Randon_I_Am]

There's pod filter under the air box... which has almost no plastic left in the bottom of it

Of course if they go looking hard enough you'll always cop a defect, but my thoughts are keep it looking stock enough to give them less of a reason to go looking any further...

sorry to thread hijack Stao

[Rolls]

That is why I don't see the point of a highflow unless it retains stock rear and front covers. if you are going to change one, might as well just get a full garret turbo and hide that as a low mount.

[Randon_I_Am]

as soon as you go over the stock AFM limit and go Z32 it all becomes a bit pointless anyway doesn't it?

for the picky bastards who want to do ya on something, they will right?

[Hanaldo]

Details please! Never heard of it!

Really it's custom, what I said before is probably a bit misleading. It was designed using a Tomei Expreme GTR dump as a model, so the dump section looks almost exactly like a Tomei dump pipe but made to fit an RB25 turbo and is 3" all the way through from the bellmouth. From there back it is a straight cut pipe to the cat. All one piece.

Made by Kermit

[Birds]

as soon as you go over the stock AFM limit and go Z32 it all becomes a bit pointless anyway doesn't it?

for the picky bastards who want to do ya on something, they will right?

It's all just a gamble on how cluey and screwy your cop is. If they really wanted to screw you over, they would pull off the pipes and see that you don't have the standard comp wheel. It's all about how much you think you can get away with. The more you stick in there, the more power you get, but the worse it's going to be when/if you get defected for it all.

[Rolls]

as soon as you go over the stock AFM limit and go Z32 it all becomes a bit pointless anyway doesn't it?

for the picky bastards who want to do ya on something, they will right?

Change the pink sticker to a green sticker, that is all they can check and almost no one knows that is the difference.

It's all just a gamble on how cluey and screwy your cop is. If they really wanted to screw you over, they would pull off the pipes and see that you don't have the standard comp wheel. It's all about how much you think you can get away with. The more you stick in there, the more power you get, but the worse it's going to be when/if you get defected for it all.

It's not really because I have never ever heard of a defect station removing your entire intake piping to check the comp wheel size, plus I'm fairly sure nissan don't put the specs in a workshop manual so they would have no reference and hence no reason to fail you.

Edited April 1, 2011 by Rolls

[SimonR32]

Well the Z32 has a orange sticker...

[Rolls]

Well the Z32 has a orange sticker...

my bad, replace it with whatever the correct colour is

[pipster11]

or move to qld or tas and be rid of the silly mod laws

[Hanaldo]

1. Undo the E-clip on the wastegate arm (don't lose it)

2. pop the extender out and lose up the positioning nut

3. Rotate the extender clock wise (to make the rod shorter) to about half a hole sorter then where the arm is.

4. Force the extender back onto the wastegate arm, put E clip back in and job is done.

Ok so this has gone horribly wrong... The E-clip snapped in the process of getting it off. What do I do now