Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No Stao, not wheel spin, I dislike wheelspin, what I need is hard takeoff and sharp kick in the seat, not linear power which u dont feel much...Talk about feelings, lol..

You want too much from a turbo but don't want wheel spin. You are from parra, ill take you got a drive in my car with the ss2. Consider a hks2835. Believe me when my turbo comes on it comes on hard. When I say linear I don't mean flat to a build up at red line, I mean comes on hard and delivers with constant and consistent linear pull to red line. A turbo to come on early will run out of puff near the red.

Edited by SargeRX8

Turbo comes on like "light switch" = you get wheelspin.

Linear power is what makes a car fast

Ron i think you need to workout what you want, you seem to want everything and you simply cannot.

No turbo making 280rwkw is going to come on early, and most setups will give you wheelspin as i can bet my right foot you don't have decent tyres, suspension, differential and so on.

hey SargeRX8, thanks man I would like to take up the offer when you are free?? Im normally home 645-7pm on weekdays, today will be late.

And Nismoid I got 235/40/18 Bridgestone Potenzers with great tread all round, RAYS lightweight wheels which look dumb, and Cusco adjustable coilovers which are too hard/bouncy - and yes get wheelspin with the stock snail at 12psi in first and second coming on hard..

hey SargeRX8, thanks man I would like to take up the offer when you are free?? Im normally home 645-7pm on weekdays, today will be late.

And Nismoid I got 235/40/18 Bridgestone Potenzers with great tread all round, RAYS lightweight wheels which look dumb, and Cusco adjustable coilovers which are too hard/bouncy - and yes get wheelspin with the stock snail at 12psi in first and second coming on hard..

I might be free later tonight around 9 or 10 or wednesday. Other than that it will have to be a weekend. Let me know, PM me.

Ive got brand new 245 tyres on the rear stretched to 255 wheels and I still get slippery when going into second, I wouldn't even bother touching any positive boost during the rain. As nismoid said, a turbo which comes on hard is just going to give you wheelspin and rev the gear out or wait til you get some traction by controlling your foot. Its hard to say, my old car had a very snappy turbo, full boost by 2800rpm(15psi) but made peak power high up in the rev range and then dropped once it peaked. It was a small high flow with garret internals. This new turbo honestly does pull all the way to red. I never even need to use my first gear I just get up to 4krpm then drop into 2nd and plant my foot.

Scott, are you sure about the ss-2? SargeRX8 said a few times in this thread that this turbo has a very linear feel, not brutal/sharp which is what i want.

Look at the dyno sheet, all of these turbos will give you a smack in the back when they come on song if running 18-20psi.

Do you create this power at one point them fall off or maintain til red line? What turbo do you have?

Yes and no...the turbo is certainly not running out of puff as it's more than likely below it's efficiency range anyway. The boost bleeds off slowly, but it still steady as I'm not running a boost controller. The reason why my power goes splat about 500rpm before redline is the way it was tuned, richer and fk all timing up top to be as safe as possible - tuner wasn't particularly keen on tuning a standard engine that goes pop when I find limiter for a split second.

Also I wouldn't be surprised if the dyno is a bit happy, it seems to be responsible for some high numbers though maybe the tuner is just good (has a reputation here)

Thanks Sarge, so whats ur number and address, I will call you, maybe meet up on Wed if you dont mind? Cant wait to sit in your 300rwkw? ride..:thumbsup:

Ah I wish 300, its about 245 on 11psi. The actuator and boost controller won't give anymore :( I'll pm you.

What rpm in second does it hit full boost?

About 3500 rpm, I shift at 4k then into second at about 3krpm with foot planted almost at red line in a couple of seconds with the turbo at full song under 4krpm. Even in first gear its on full boost by about 3800rpm which isn't bad for first gear. When it was on dyno, we hit 20.1psi at about 3700rpm in 4th.

Yes and no...the turbo is certainly not running out of puff as it's more than likely below it's efficiency range anyway. The boost bleeds off slowly, but it still steady as I'm not running a boost controller. The reason why my power goes splat about 500rpm before redline is the way it was tuned, richer and fk all timing up top to be as safe as possible - tuner wasn't particularly keen on tuning a standard engine that goes pop when I find limiter for a split second.

Also I wouldn't be surprised if the dyno is a bit happy, it seems to be responsible for some high numbers though maybe the tuner is just good (has a reputation here)

Yeah that is fair enough. The tuner told me he can get you the biggest figure he can if you like but he will never recommend it. Its always better to be safe than sorry, especially when playing with expensive toys.

Edited by SargeRX8

Oh I always thought Stao's turbos come with a new actuator and oil line...Yep PM me, my no is 0416424446 btw..cheers

Yeah they come with 17 psi actuators but when the tuner saw it hit 20.1psi at 3700rpm he somehow managed to convince me to use a 10psi low boost and 17 high boost but this actuator is soft as arse it couldn't hold even 5psi at times and with the boost controller set to 100% bleeding most of the air out it can we only managed 11.5psi, and one or two spikes to 12.5psi. He has the boost controller set to start boost at 13.8 but it never even gets there lol. So yeah with Staos turbos, you do get a 17psi actuator and the oil line. Ive got the actuator here with me(17psi one) but I want to get a 14psi one to run 14 low 17 - 18high then get a retune.

Remove your number out of your post lol just keep it in the PM.

So electric supercharger at low revs, or it will assist the turbo in spooling up?

I have an idea, could you drive the turbo from the crank (like a supercharger) but use some sort of sprocket so that if the exhaust wants to turn the shaft faster than engine speed it can without issue? So basically it only saps energy from the crank at low engine speeds when the turbo wouldn't normally be spinning that speed, when there is enough exhaust energy the turbine takes over and spins it.

How does that sound? I don't know how you'd route the drive from the crank to where the turbo normally sits but I'm sure with enough money it could be done.

Idea is good...but I'm fairly certain this is the principle behind twin charged cars anyway, i.e. cars equipped with a supercharger and a turbo. That's the "less complicated" version of what Stao is proposing, anyway.

If you were to make a turbocharger powered by both the crank and exhaust gases, I could see something similar to an air con compressor clutch being used...electronically disengaging the crank drive by way of ECU at a certain RPM, at which point exhaust gases take over.

About 3500 rpm, I shift at 4k then into second at about 3krpm with foot planted almost at red line in a couple of seconds with the turbo at full song under 4krpm. Even in first gear its on full boost by about 3800rpm which isn't bad for first gear. When it was on dyno, we hit 20.1psi at about 3700rpm in 4th.

20psi at 3700rpm is excellent in 4th gear. Did you ever manage to post up a dyno sheet?

Second gear cant be 3500rpm because it has to be higher than the rpm in 4th gear :)

20psi at 3700rpm is excellent in 4th gear. Did you ever manage to post up a dyno sheet?

Second gear cant be 3500rpm because it has to be higher than the rpm in 4th gear :)

Yeah its hard for me to keep an eye on the gauges while driving lol. Here is the only print out I got. I should have got captures of all of the graphs.

I hate how it shows speed rather than KM's but its not hard to calculate back to get the RPM.

Look how different the power curve is where it creates boost between high and low boost. It comes on at the same time just in larger quantities.

post-68383-0-59083300-1310971535_thumb.jpg

Edited by SargeRX8

sargeRX8, im still waiting for my PM for a test run in your car :P

your graph looks like mine, power doesn't come on hard otherwise will be wheel spin all the way.

quite similar to how mine comes on boost.

Sarge what your saying confuses me, with the low pressure actuator on my car I'm getting 16psi at 4500rpm :/????

Edit just realized you have the ss2.

Edited by lilcrash

It is the actual peak torque value that will create the wheel spin, not how hard it comes on, however the harder it comes on usually the higher the value.

Change in torque produces wheel spin... Not peak torque :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So my R32 GTST has been sitting around at my old mum and dad's place for a few years now...and it's time to bring it home. Main issue I have is that she hasn't been started in about 5 years or so, so I'm not too keen on just kicking it over and hoping that RB20 reputation for being un-killlable extends to long periods of neglect. My plan is to get it running there so I can move it around,  then get it towed back to my place where I can start working on it properly. The old folks driveway is a bad place to start a project like that. I'm getting old too and also haven't stuffed around with cars since forever, so kinda learning this stuff again. So far I've siphoned out all the shitty old fuel and topped up the coolant (thought it was fully dry but took 2 litres to fill the radiator). Planning on hitting the rusty rotors with some brake cleaner in case the tow truck driver gets a bit gung ho loading it up. As far as oil, it's got plenty although it's now dark in colour and obviously needs a change sooner rather than later. Was doing some YouTube research and was planning to hand-crank the motor from the harmonic balancer with a 37mm socket and breaker bar, removing the spark plugs and spraying some "fogging oil" in the holes but there's not much room to get in there with the radiator fan right up against it. Jacking the car up takes too long and I can't leave it half done between visits. So now I'm was thinking of cranking a few times it using the starter (removing plugs and spraying oil first). Reckon there's any chance it will do more damage that way if something's stuck inside the motor? Should I really change all fluids completely before I go any further? Grateful for any other advice you guys have to get her going safely too.      
    • Well, that's just wierd. Amongst a string of seemingly benign introduction and request for help threads, we have this one with a link.... to another, unrelated thread inside this forum. Colour me suspicious.
    • Sorry to say, I think that is a pretty long shot on this forum.....
    • sorry, "info" from Lumley here: https://www.lsvcarinsurance.com.au/about-nrma-insurance
    • So it looks like Lumleys are closing other than in Victoria, with the kind offer that another brand from the evil IAG multi-glomerate (NRMA) might offer insurance under their price and conditions if they want to, as an alternative. Lunmleys was good for us because they covered JDM and USDM imports, had 2 car "stable" insurance (ie, insure many cars but max of 2 can be driven at once), covered mods, reasonable overall prices. So, with them gone, who else should I consider? Shannons is last on my list, we used to be insured with them until we found they were helpful at taking premiums but much less helpful at claim time.
×
×
  • Create New...