Jump to content
SAU Community

How Thick Of An Intercooler Can You Go On An R32 Gtr

AtomicBomberMan
 Share

Recommended Posts

AtomicBomberMan Experienced

AtomicBomberMan

Posted
Posted

Hi all, i have bought an ARC 135mm racing intercooler. Currently I run an ARC 105mm intercooler. I remember i when i installed the 105, there was a quite little bit to chop off both the bar and the reo. I'm a little concerned now, is 135mm possible? Will she be able to take it? Can you please share your experiences with thickness? How did you deal with it? How much blood sweat and tears were involved? and what did she look like afterwards? Pictures of yours would be great!

Mr GTR-32 Community Regular

Mr GTR-32

Posted
Posted

Hi i dont have pics but i can say that i installed a 149mm trust tube and fin cooler on the R32 GTR had to shave the inside of the bar to suit which really wasnt that hard, the reo has to be shaved also along the outer edges where the cooler tanks are but again with a small grinder and a little patience you can achieve it easily. Took me 4.5 hrs to cut bar and reo do some dummy fitting etc.

Hope this helps good luck.

Weapon Mentor

Weapon

Posted
Posted

On a side note Atomic Bomber Man, is your current 105mm thick core twin entry? and also would you be looking at selling the core :D

It should be sweet though, air saws are wonderful things ;)

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

I ran an Apexi GT Drag Intercooler on my R33 which had a core thickness of 136mm and had no problems.

There was some trimming needed but the factory bar went back on and I was also able to refit the factory mesh.

AtomicBomberMan Experienced

AtomicBomberMan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

mr gtr, is it possible to get pics? does it stick out ver far? i am more concerned about the look of it. i have a feeling it might look a bit funny. ie the cooler protrudes through the hole it should be sitting behind! :D

weapon, the i/c is not twin entry, and i have already sold it to a friend. fantastic looking bit of gear they are. well designed too!

does anyone have pictures of thick ones?

Mr GTR-32 Community Regular

Mr GTR-32

Posted
Posted

atomicbomberman i will try and dig up pics of the cooler installation, i shaved the reo bar and its still all there in perfect condition, the cooler looks fine does not come forward thats the whole reason of shaving the reo bar at the required angles to accomodate the thicker cooler tanks. In regards to the air con fan i did have this probelm but was able to keep mine with some gentle persuasion i was able to slightly push forward the metal grille shrouding so that the fan would not rub on it as i was not going to sacrifice not having a/c. The fan will be only 5mm away from the cooler but will pass i have never posted up pics on the forum as im not very computer literate but if you pm me your mobile phone number i can sms some pics with my phone to you so you can get the idea.

cheers,

Dave.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
  AtomicBomberMan said:
Hi all, i have bought an ARC 135mm racing intercooler. Currently I run an ARC 105mm intercooler. I remember i when i installed the 105, there was a quite little bit to chop off both the bar and the reo. I'm a little concerned now, is 135mm possible? Will she be able to take it? Can you please share your experiences with thickness? How did you deal with it? How much blood sweat and tears were involved? and what did she look like afterwards? Pictures of yours would be great!

ive had a few through with the big daddy (165mm) trust coolers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Murray_Calavera
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      No Voltage At Fuel Pump

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...