Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

s13 coils bolt straight in. only mods is machining out camber tops to actually gain - camber or get dr30 camber tops.

So I can just buy a set of S13 coilovers and using leftover bits from my DR30 struts make it all fit front and rear?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4485481
Share on other sites

you may as well do an s13 front hub conversion.

the rears will fit the trailing arms but you will need to buy different caps coz silvia run two bolt.

OR you can precisely drill out two new holes in the top of your strut tower, but it would be better to find proper top caps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4486041
Share on other sites

5 stud conversion really can be done, anyone have an idea for doing rear 5 stud conversion?

S13 coilovers yes they bolt in you just take the plate off that the standard struts bolt to the LCA onto...If you run the standard S13 camber tops be prepared to run alot of negative camber or run the DR30 strut tops

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4486226
Share on other sites

the advantage for me was a floating disc set up and coilover fronts with more options.

100mm spacing for bigger brakes, mine is an mr30 not a dr30.

i have the understanding that dr30's already have this 100mm spacing?

makes it a whole lot easier to take your front shocks out!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4486697
Share on other sites

So I can just buy a set of S13 coilovers and using leftover bits from my DR30 struts make it all fit front and rear?

sorry should have been more specific, as said will need s13 hubs of course to bolt the coilovers to (s13 r floating hub and have strut separate to the hub). but all that bolts straight in (have s13 shit on my dr30) even brake lines fit straight up. only thing is that the steering knuckle on s13 hubs is thicker so when u screw the nut down it wont line up with the hole 2 get a split pin thru. can just put the nut upside down so can still get a pin thru. wont b able 2 come off, mines just 4 track work anyway.

and yea just drill out the strut tops for the rear. i just marked them out with pair of dividers no dramas.

or also as said could get proper 3 stud strut tops from somewhere.

Edited by OUTATIME
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4487260
Share on other sites

the advantage for me was a floating disc set up and coilover fronts with more options.

100mm spacing for bigger brakes, mine is an mr30 not a dr30.

i have the understanding that dr30's already have this 100mm spacing?

makes it a whole lot easier to take your front shocks out!!

yerp your right DR30's have 100mm bolt spacing for the calipers so changing to S13 coil overs is really not needed...if your really in need for coil overs sleeve ur standard struts easy as

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4487322
Share on other sites

only thing is that the steering knuckle on s13 hubs is thicker so when u screw the nut down it wont line up with the hole 2 get a split pin thru. can just put the nut upside down so can still get a pin thru.

you can counter sink a hole the width of the nut in the top of this hole so the nut will screw down all the way.

only needs to be counter sunk about 3mm, then it works a treat. no need for upside down nuts or ball joints with no split pins.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4487759
Share on other sites

if you're not in a hurry check out importmonster.com.au

i bought a full set of r32 gtr calipers, they also happened to come with brand new pads too, for 17,700yen which was about 170 bucks at the time.

i also got a full set of coilovers to suit the s13 conversion for 20,000yen which was about 200 bucks.

Edited by skybt1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4491430
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
i have been wanting to try and see if you can fit z31 stub axles into the r30 items.

but it is a rare item and im not even sure if it will work.

then you can use the z31 half shafts which are way better.

that would be good, my shafts are flogged and need to rebuild or upgrade, not so easy. ive seen 1600s with r200s runnig commondore halfshafts dont no if can do to r30 ?? .. i no its commoncrap but strong

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261648-dr30-coilovers/#findComment-4512747
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...