Jump to content
SAU Community

Dr30 Coilovers


Recommended Posts

i had a guy make me up commodore shafts to fit the r30,

i dont know what went wrong but i broke three sets.

whether it was poor craftsmenship or just bad luck(i doubt it)

we just couldnt get them to work.

i just imported a couple of sets of dr30 shafts of an r200 from japan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

depends,

gunna be chopping the struts up and giving them coilover sleeves?

i used commodore kyb excell g's in my last daily driver stanza, they were long as tho...

Z31 and R31 are short.

my bro runs ae92 trd yellows in the front of his 1600, shortened strut to suit. Its a sled

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chopping with sleaves is the plan.

Not a fan of excel G's, had some ae86 ones with 8kg springs on my ra60.

TRD's are worth looking into

AGX?... I believe are adjustable? The more adjustable the better, I don't mind titty rattling stiff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i had a guy make me up commodore shafts to fit the r30,

i dont know what went wrong but i broke three sets.

whether it was poor craftsmenship or just bad luck(i doubt it)

we just couldnt get them to work.

i just imported a couple of sets of dr30 shafts of an r200 from japan.

shit, maybe not so strong after all. yea commondore bits on my d r doesnt sit well with me ne way, the local shaft guy wreckons he can rebuild em, but i doubt that, i have no idea were hed get parts ..

mmm do u want to sell 1 of your sets ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not really, sorry. Knowing my luck as soon as i sell them ill need them.

Just hunt importmosnter. you'll find a set at a good price eventually.

Its a bit shit now with the exchange rate but if you have time its worth it.

They must have so many over there, you can get a set for 100 bucks some times.

I bought one brand new set for 200 bucks and one second hand set for 100.

But be careful, some of the japs try to pass off r180 shafts for 200's. There arent a lot like this but they are out there.

The more you look at the more you can pick which ones are good and which ones are useless.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

so do s13 coilovers fit in the rear of an r30 4 door as long as you drill out the tops correctly is that right. im lookin into doining it on a mates. he put the stiffest springs he can find in it and it still sqats like crazy. its makin it a pig to slide.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
so do s13 coilovers fit in the rear of an r30 4 door as long as you drill out the tops correctly is that right. im lookin into doining it on a mates. he put the stiffest springs he can find in it and it still sqats like crazy. its makin it a pig to slide.

I don't think your mate looked too hard, then. The factory spring rate was only about 90 lbs or so. You can buy a pair of King springs in the rate of your choice, and I'm talking about 1000+ lb.

S13 stuff isn't going to make it any better. You will still need an appropriate spring and dampers that are up to the task.

My rally car has 175 lb rear springs and Bilstein dampers. I'm in the process of getting softer springs because mine doesn't squat enough.

In answer to your question, I believe that is the case, yes. Though the coilovers are shorter, IIRC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...