Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr Console Trim Removal - Without Breaking It!

GTRNUR

By GTRNUR,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Everyone,

I am trying to access the back of the head unit in my dash/console, and cant work out how to pull it apart. Its easy to remove the trim around the gear shift (ash-tray, 1 screw and a few clips hold that part), but the part that surrounds the head unit itself is proving difficult.

I cant work out where the clips are that are holding the outer triim in place and am reluctant to go forcing anything. Does anyone have a procedure for removal of this trim?

turp_0812_14_z%20nissan_skyline_r34_gtr%20center_console.jpg

The frame trim around the head unit is what im trying to remove...

Cheers,

Ian

Edited by GTRNUR
Link to comment
Share on other sites
RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
Posted

im going to assume that its the same as the 34 gtt

therefore you simply take a screw driver, cover the tip with something soft and slip it in between the vents and surrounding fascia above the ac controls and pop them out (sounds daunting but is really very simple)

you find 2 screws behind that

you also need to pull up the gear stick surround (only held in by clips, so gently pull upward), and undo the screw behind the EVC you have with the cf surround, you will find another 2 screws that hold in the cage that houses the ac controls and the headunit.

once undone you can pull it all out and there are 4 screws holding on the piece of trim around the head unit that you want to remove

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, Ive had a go but it appears the trim surrounding the dash MFD screen also overlaps the vents a little, so im now searching for MFD removal instructions to try and work out how to remove that part of trim without breaking it too!

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rtune Experienced

rtune

Posted
Posted
Thanks, Ive had a go but it appears the trim surrounding the dash MFD screen also overlaps the vents a little, so im now searching for MFD removal instructions to try and work out how to remove that part of trim without breaking it too!

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

you have to remove the aircon before removing the MFD.

aircon can be removed by pulling out, with a hook. or the aforementioned screwdriver in

the side, Then you get access to the MFD.

as far as I know you can't get the MFD out without first removing the integrated aircon unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Beanie
      Hello from the UK

      By Beanie · Posted

      Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Beanie
      Hello from the UK

      By Beanie · Posted

      Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • r32-25t
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Buy one
    • GTSBoy
      A little PU bush story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...