Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr Console Trim Removal - Without Breaking It!

GTRNUR

By GTRNUR,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Everyone,

I am trying to access the back of the head unit in my dash/console, and cant work out how to pull it apart. Its easy to remove the trim around the gear shift (ash-tray, 1 screw and a few clips hold that part), but the part that surrounds the head unit itself is proving difficult.

I cant work out where the clips are that are holding the outer triim in place and am reluctant to go forcing anything. Does anyone have a procedure for removal of this trim?

turp_0812_14_z%20nissan_skyline_r34_gtr%20center_console.jpg

The frame trim around the head unit is what im trying to remove...

Cheers,

Ian

Edited by GTRNUR
RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
Posted

im going to assume that its the same as the 34 gtt

therefore you simply take a screw driver, cover the tip with something soft and slip it in between the vents and surrounding fascia above the ac controls and pop them out (sounds daunting but is really very simple)

you find 2 screws behind that

you also need to pull up the gear stick surround (only held in by clips, so gently pull upward), and undo the screw behind the EVC you have with the cf surround, you will find another 2 screws that hold in the cage that houses the ac controls and the headunit.

once undone you can pull it all out and there are 4 screws holding on the piece of trim around the head unit that you want to remove

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, Ive had a go but it appears the trim surrounding the dash MFD screen also overlaps the vents a little, so im now searching for MFD removal instructions to try and work out how to remove that part of trim without breaking it too!

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

rtune Experienced

rtune

Posted
Posted
Thanks, Ive had a go but it appears the trim surrounding the dash MFD screen also overlaps the vents a little, so im now searching for MFD removal instructions to try and work out how to remove that part of trim without breaking it too!

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

you have to remove the aircon before removing the MFD.

aircon can be removed by pulling out, with a hook. or the aforementioned screwdriver in

the side, Then you get access to the MFD.

as far as I know you can't get the MFD out without first removing the integrated aircon unit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...