A Few Stagea Questions

[too_much_boost]

Hi Guys

I've just put a deposit on a 96 Stagea and have a couple of questions.

1. What are the option with aftermarket ECUs in this? The car currently has a Microtech MT10 and no afm, but i was under the assumption that the auto would have a fit as it receives load signals from the ECU. Anyone have any idea how this might be working?

2. How big a deal is it to convert to RWD (even in auto mode)? I was thinking that I care not for the 4wd and the lower weight and lower drivetrain loss might be a big advantage

3. What front brakes do these things have standard?

Thanks

[pork hunt drifting]

i got no idea on youre first question, but converting to rwd would be fun for a bit, but daily driving im loving the extra feel of safety or sumthin from the awd system. there is ways to run rwd temporarily but make sure you go the rite way about it cause you can f*k up big dallas of trans.

oah and standard brakes on these are shit about three or four hard stops and youre pedals not far from the ground

[_Ryan_]

BULL SHIT

my brakes are f**ken sweet

its all in the pads, Endless SSS or Racebrakes RB74 FTW!!!

RWD- drop the front shaft, between the transfer case and diff, its the only safe way.

ECU- speak to an expert, shift kit would prob help a little IMO, as it wont free rev between shifts if it isnt set up too retard...

[pork hunt drifting]

youre probly rite i only got shity pads for now but still wouldnt think pebal would go down that far

[msports180]

Is it a S1 or S2? If its a series 2 then would have trans problems with ecu? S1 should be fine?

[_Ryan_]

youre probly rite i only got shity pads for now but still wouldnt think pebal would go down that far

difference between shit pads and good ones in these things is night n day

[too_much_boost]

I'm assuming the car is S1. I haven't collected it yet.

I've always had RWD cars, and would prefer the Stagea to be RWD too. I guess I could drop the front driveshaft to see how the ECU copes and if thats ok, then just yank the front diff out and bin it

As far as brakes are concerned, I was thinking about upgrading to R33 GTST or R32 GTR ones. These are a direct bolt-on right?

[_Ryan_]

I'm assuming the car is S1. I haven't collected it yet.

I've always had RWD cars, and would prefer the Stagea to be RWD too. I guess I could drop the front driveshaft to see how the ECU copes and if thats ok, then just yank the front diff out and bin it

As far as brakes are concerned, I was thinking about upgrading to R33 GTST or R32 GTR ones. These are a direct bolt-on right?

i can lock up my brakes with my current setup, or activate ABS with old ones(i think i just react quicker )so why change besides for easier pad choice? with good pads they have good feel IMO

[GoldZilla]

Hi Guys

I've just put a deposit on a 96 Stagea and have a couple of questions.

1. What are the option with aftermarket ECUs in this? The car currently has a Microtech MT10 and no afm, but i was under the assumption that the auto would have a fit as it receives load signals from the ECU. Anyone have any idea how this might be working?

2. How big a deal is it to convert to RWD (even in auto mode)? I was thinking that I care not for the 4wd and the lower weight and lower drivetrain loss might be a big advantage

3. What front brakes do these things have standard?

Thanks

1. Having a computer like a MicroTech, I'm guessing it would most likely cause transmission issues not too far down the line. The factory ECU has some sort of an ignition cut-out to ease pressure on the gearbox during changes, and I seriously doubt the MicroTech would have this function in it. If you were to get a better computer (like a Haltech, MoTec or similar), then it *might* have functionality for the ignition cut during gear changes.

My car is an s1 with an R34 GTt PowerFC, but the guy I bought the car off had already converted it to manual, so when I had the PFC installed about a year ago I didn't have these issues.

2. Converting to RWD is pretty easy, and as long as it's done right, you shouldn't have an issue. BUT, you'd barely save any weight - removing the driveshaft from the transfer case to the front diff will save you less than 10kg. The Nissan ATTESA system is a constantly variable system anyway, so for maybe 80-90% of the time the car is already in RWD mode.

3. Standard front brakes are twin-piston fronts and single-piston rears. A good-quality brake fluid, and as already mentioned, a good set of pads, will work wonders. Braided brake lines would also help (but make sure you get some that are ADR-compliant).

I'm assuming the car is S1. I haven't collected it yet.

I've always had RWD cars, and would prefer the Stagea to be RWD too. I guess I could drop the front driveshaft to see how the ECU copes and if thats ok, then just yank the front diff out and bin it

As far as brakes are concerned, I was thinking about upgrading to R33 GTST or R32 GTR ones. These are a direct bolt-on right?

Being a 96 model, it would definitely be an S1...

The ECU shouldn't have a problem with the front driveshaft being removed, but yanking the diff out would most likely involve removing the engine (IIRC, the diff is attached to the bottom of the block) and changing your sump for a RWD one.

Nope, R33 GTSt/R32 GT-R brakes are NOT a direct swap. There are plenty of threads on this, have a good read through and all will be revealed...

[KiwiRS4T]

I can't believe what I am reading! If you want a two wheel drive car DON'T BUY A 4WD car ...its that simple! Get your deposit back!! There are 2 wd turbo RS stageas around... there was one on Trade Me a week or two ago. If you rip out the front driveshaft you will still have a heap of unnecessary weight in the form of the transfer case and front half shafts, cv joints etc.

A sophisticated aftermarket ecu should be able to handle the auto. Vipec/Link can, and anything more grunty than a PFC with sufficient outputs could be made to work.

Stagea brakes are fine for normal use. For the track I have slotted rotors and better pads. No-one is going to race a Stagea so the only heavy use would be for serious towing in which case you might want bigger brakes. Some people say they are upgrading brakes for cosmetic reasons but that doesn't mean that the stockers won't stop your car.

[KiwiRS4T]

youre probly rite i only got shity pads for now but still wouldnt think pebal would go down that far

Have you changed your brake fluid lately..or ever?!!

[pork hunt drifting]

^^ mmm 40 000km ago

[pixel8r]

Just out of interest, is there any actual drivetrain loss during normal driving - ie. while the AWD hasn't kicked in?

I know it always drives the front wheels just a touch, but surely any drivetrain loss would be negligible?

Also, if the AWD does kick in, its because you've started to lose traction at the rear (or it thinks you will soon), so the AWD would be faster than RWD in these cases anyway due to the extra grip.

Its been proven that the stagea is faster down the drag strip with AWD than it is with the front tailshaft removed. The AWD gets it off the line quicker and so any drivetrain loss is more than compensated by the AWD traction.

The only real benefit to RWD only is weight (and i suppose some prefer less traction for a bit of fun). If you can remove the front diff and everything associated I believe it will shed ~150kg or so...but I'm pretty sure it'd be a lot easier and more sensible to just buy a RWD stagea?

Without the front diff, RWD is faster than AWD, but this is mainly due to the drop in weight.

[too_much_boost]

2wd Stagea seem very rare and expensive in comparison to the normal 4wd ones. I found with one very cheap, hence i'm sticking with it.

When I talk about wanting to convert to rwd, i mean PROPERLY - not just dropping the front driveshaft. What I would be wanting to achieve is lower drivetrain loss and weight, both of which will give me better acceleration and lower fuel consumption. I wont be using any of the benefits of awd so I don't see the need to put up with the downsides of it

I have to pull the engine anyway as the motor is stuffed (damn microtech), so changing sumps to rwd version wont be a big deal.

I do plan on getting rid of the microtech, but I have to investigate what has been hacked to make it work. Hopefully the stock ECU is still in there so it might just be a case of wiring that back in, getting another AFM and a few bits and pieces and it will be fine.

You guys seem to be fairly against upgrading the brakes to something bigger and better. That is a strange opinion to have i think. I think any brake upgrade is a good idea.

[BensDR30]

I must say, I'm with Robert & Ryan on this one...

We don't know where the OP is located, but I think that it's reasonable to suggest that a test drive in a Stagea would have been possible. We then might be hearing a different story in regards to the AWD factor.

Brakes; 80,000km old stock were ok (better than the Australian equivalent wagon, if you get my drift). New rear discs, slotted front discs, new pads (I'm using OEM), fresh fluid, and now an MC-stopper give me plenty of confidence in the factory system on the street. Better pads, braided lines & a higher-temp fluid would be a must for track work, but you find me a standard car (not supercar) that can cope with 5 flat-out laps on the track without toasting the factory setup...

I have always owned RWD cars - I love driving my DR30, and the Z (although that's a fading memory since it's been off the road since mid-'06). But none of them come close to the confidence that the AWD gives in the Stagea. The limits of the grip & chassis continue to surprise me, even with stock suspension. Within reason, you can drive on dirt like it's bitumen, drive in the rain like it's dry, and take corner far too quickly and still come out smelling of roses.

If you're that keen on RWD balls-n-all 'wagoning', then get a 260RS, pull the front shaft & add an aftermarket ECU. The RS-Four is a gem by design, and I personally like it the way it is.

I'm not sure how you're going to go with the MicroTech + auto. There are several threads on 'aftermarket ECU's on these forums, but I haven't really payed too much attention to them (the Vi-Pec route is one that I am interested in, however).

Just my 2c (recession) worth...

Edited March 20, 2009 by BensDR30

[too_much_boost]

Another question for you... WHat AFM should i be looking for if I want to piss off the microtech and get it working again with the stock ecu? ie which part number?

[_Ryan_]

i'll try and take a photo of the label if i can get too it with my cast on

wrecker or second hand on here will get you one...

[KiwiRS4T]

Another question for you... WHat AFM should i be looking for if I want to piss off the microtech and get it working again with the stock ecu? ie which part number?

Stock R33 one - can't see mine atm but will be pulling the intercooler pipes out soon to be changing my smic for a bigger nismo one and could get the details then if someone doesn't beat me to it. Stocker good for up to 210AWKW or so or else get a Z32 one now if you are planning for big power in the future (you should be able to get a stock one cheap - look or advertise in the general section parts for sale/wanted as plenty of skyline owners will have upgraded to Z32 or gone the no AFM way).

BTW I have a spare S1 ecu for sale if you find you need one.

[too_much_boost]

Thanks guys. This is a steep learning curve. I know S13's inside out but Stageas seem to have another level of complication (hence me trying to simplify mine)

Humour me for a second here

The car currently has fmic and zorst, and knowing me, more power will be required. I'm thinking some sort of turbo, S15 injectors and Z32 might suffice for now.

The question is about ECU's. I read in other threads that Nistune (which i happily use in my S13's) only work in S2, but not in S1's. Would it be possible with some dicking around, to get an S2 ECU and engine loom to run the S1 engine and stuff?

Also remember my silly talk about RWD, would going RWD and MANUAL make the ECU situation simpler? I like RWD and manual, but I also like the practicality and features of a Stagea

[GoldZilla]

Also remember my silly talk about RWD, would going RWD and MANUAL make the ECU situation simpler? I like RWD and manual, but I also like the practicality and features of a Stagea

Not sure if this may sway you, but the front suspension on a factory RWD-only Stagea is COMPLETELY different to an AWD Stagea - removing the driveshafts from an AWD Stagea might have a factor in how the car ends up handling, depending on how reliant the suspension is on using the driveshafts in the system, or whether the removal will have an effect on upsetting the balance that's been inherently built into it...