Help! Hicas Light On, Power-steering Gone!

[SilverECR33]

Anyone have any luck on this? Mines still FArked :S

[Jez13]

Like i said before, my hicas stopped and my powersteering intermitantly cut out. The problem was a loose earth wire. It would be nice if everyone that registered their problems replied back with the solution (if they got it fixed) to their problems so others can use the information, rather than just spit out a heap of issues.

[SilverECR33]

I agree, also the amount of hicas issue threads goes like 3 pages, OK so Ive checked all earths and all are fine.

*note* a user advised to disconnect the smaller plug. although Mine only has 1 large plug ? I thought I would try this to isolate the bad circuit. * still havnt had a chance ot test another Hicas ECU yet.

*

As Jaz13 has said, If anyone else has fixed the issue Please post it .

[b52]

i drive a r32 gtr.

few days back when i was dribving at the highway, when it reach certain speed, my steering steers to the left a little, but car still goes straight. and feels a bit loose on the front wheels, like its going in diff direction, no mater where u steer, not very major, but when u are drving at high spped its pretty scary

then just 2 hours ago, i went for another drive,. same problem, only this time, the HICAS light came on , on my way home, 3 times. but steering is not heavy. still normal

where is the HICAS control module located? behind the boot? is that it?

i might try to check see iof theres any blown capasitors, etc.. cos few months back my 4WD and ABS light was on, and so i changed 2 condensor in my G sensor unit.. and cleaned the lines as there's oil coming out from the condensors.

i have an aftermarket steering wheel, with Japanse made bosskit. will that cause the prob? cos i have this steering for few months arleady, prob only came out today

i will try to check the hicas module, earth/grounding cable, and the fluid. (where is the HICAS fliud located again??)

i will also check my power steering fluid, and sockets, to se if there any loose conections.

lastly, my battry is a bit small for skyline, that an issue?? have been using that batty with no problems.. untill today

[steve12]

Referring to the R33 electric system,

The HICAS module sits under the parcel tray in the boot. This area is at a high temperature when in the sun. Remove the HICAS module and open it.

There are 2 boards back to back. Be careful as the cable that connects these to boards is fragile. Look for leaking capacitors on the boards. The one i found was near the green power transistor on the heat sink. The liquid that leaks for the capacitors is very corrosive and will cause all R33 symptoms discussed in this thread.

If you do find a leaking capacitor, please reply and I will let you know what to do next.

[b52]

i just found out , once my HICAS kicks in, after 80kmh, thats when my steering will go a little bit to the left side

i am guessing either battery is too small, cos i have lots of gadgets, HID, amp, gauges, etc

or, 2nd could be steerign position sensor,

or 3rd, could be the ECU

does anybody know if bad wheel alignment has got anything to do with this??. cos i just installed new rims few weeks back and did not go for alignment

will keep you all updated.

[SilverECR33]

Referring to the R33 electric system,

The HICAS module sits under the parcel tray in the boot. This area is at a high temperature when in the sun. Remove the HICAS module and open it.

There are 2 boards back to back. Be careful as the cable that connects these to boards is fragile. Look for leaking capacitors on the boards. The one i found was near the green power transistor on the heat sink. The liquid that leaks for the capacitors is very corrosive and will cause all R33 symptoms discussed in this thread.

If you do find a leaking capacitor, please reply and I will let you know what to do next.

Steve you are 100% correct, I have dismantled the Hicas ECU, and have found 3 capacitors located near the Green power transistor near the heat sink, one of which is leaking black stuff all over the board, the trail isnt that big actually largest area covered is only about 3mm.

Looks cleanable is it? will I need a new capacitors? hard to change?

[steve12]

Have you cleaned the PCB and check if any tracks or through holes have been eaten away. If not just replace the capacitors with 105C rated ones. Your car should be fine then.

A lot of R33 owners are going to see the same problem as the green transistor must be getting very hot combined with the hot location of the module itself is causing the capacitor to fail.

If you are not confident in repairing the module give it to a tech you know.

[SilverECR33]

Awsome steve thanks, I havnt cleaned it yet, im also a bit curious as to how to clean it properly? could I just use some swabs and some alchohol?

105C is that going to be the same for all 3? because they seem to be different sizes.

[steve12]

Swab and alcohol is fine. 105C is the temperature rating. You can get the voltage and capacitance specs from the capacitors themselves. Best to get a bit higher voltage rating. Must have same capacitance. I think its only one of the capacitors that is leaking but it is hard to tell which one. Like you said replace all 3.

[SilverECR33]

Ok so we have a bunch of electrical engineers at work that were more than happy to do it for me, unfortunently it looks like that has not resolved the issue, Still hicas light on and heavy steering

The board was in good condition, nothing eaten away at all. just some black mess around those 3 capacitors., the leaking capacitor was number #2, it was leaking from the bottom. which is not really normal. and the paste inside showed signs of leakage.

Although this hasnt fixed the issue.. Looking for a Hicas ECU from a R33 to test with

[steve12]

Strange?? should have fixed the problem. Did you make sure the replacement capacitor was installed the correct way around?

Also check if there is a HICAS fuse.

[SilverECR33]

Strange?? should have fixed the problem. Did you make sure the replacement capacitor was installed the correct way around?

Also check if there is a HICAS fuse.

the professional engineers that did it, id say they did it properly. they fix circuitry all day. There is a hicas fuse and its fine. they replaced all 3 and tested the circuit. they tested the ones that came off and even they were still working, even though 1 was leaking...

So now I'm going over everything again. But not being able to get into the Hicas Diagnostic is a big hurdle im yet to get over. Still havnt got any clarification from anyone (including Paul33) whether or not having a Power FC is preventing this.

A friend of mine suggested that the Hicas is entirely independent of the ecu and wouldn't have any impact on running the diag, although If anyone knows different please let me know.

Edited December 2, 2009 by SilverECR33

[steve12]

The series one R33 do not have HICAS diagnostics. It is firmware related.

[steve12]

Aslo, does your HICAS sometimes work ok. Or is the light always one with heavy steering?

[Munkyb0y]

Like i said before, my hicas stopped and my powersteering intermitantly cut out. The problem was a loose earth wire. It would be nice if everyone that registered their problems replied back with the solution (if they got it fixed) to their problems so others can use the information, rather than just spit out a heap of issues.

I never solved mine. The hicas light is on all the time now. But my power steering is fine, and the hicas rack isnt doing anything weird with my back wheels, so ive just left it for now.

When i get some camber arms, i will install a lock bar at the same time, get it all alligned. take out the hicas bulb, and be done with it.

BTW, Ive been told that when the hicas light is on (ie. there's a hicas error), the hicas rack locks as a result, and so wont move around. dont know how true that is.

[Raysboostin]

im having a bit of trouble understanding how the hicas computer can effect the power steer?? can someone expand on it please??

[b52]

I never solved mine. The hicas light is on all the time now. But my power steering is fine, and the hicas rack isnt doing anything weird with my back wheels, so ive just left it for now.

When i get some camber arms, i will install a lock bar at the same time, get it all alligned. take out the hicas bulb, and be done with it.

BTW, Ive been told that when the hicas light is on (ie. there's a hicas error), the hicas rack locks as a result, and so wont move around. dont know how true that is.

my car has the hicas light on, sometimes,

sometimes when it reaches 80kmh, when Hicas kicks in, the system thinks u are taking corners, so my steering wheel swerves a bit to the left, and i think is is result of rear wheel steering in action..

but this few days, i tested the car, no problem

this is really getting on my nerve,

if the prob is not there, i cannot trouble shoot

[SilverECR33]

The series one R33 do not have HICAS diagnostics. It is firmware related.

is this 100%? so how the hell are Series 1 people suppose to diagnose the issue? :S

Aslo, does your HICAS sometimes work ok. Or is the light always one with heavy steering?

it used to be like that, But Like Munkyb0y its now on all the time, with no power steering all the time.

I never solved mine. The hicas light is on all the time now. But my power steering is fine, and the hicas rack isnt doing anything weird with my back wheels, so ive just left it for now.

When i get some camber arms, i will install a lock bar at the same time, get it all alligned. take out the hicas bulb, and be done with it.

BTW, Ive been told that when the hicas light is on (ie. there's a hicas error), the hicas rack locks as a result, and so wont move around. dont know how true that is.

yes mine is just like yours, I also notice that it seems to be no issue with hicas engaging while in this state. but on a side note, my power steering is gone. is it possible this has something to do with the solinoid on the powersteering rack which is connected to the hicas?

We need clarification on this , need a wiring diagram..

[steve12]

You should be able to get the power steering to work as the HICAS controls pressure via a solenoid valve on the rack and pinion.

The leaking cap many have killed your HICAS module. I never did look at the circuitry properly. You can try my one if you live in sydney or get one form the wreckers.

As for diagnostics, yes I am 100% sure it won't work on series 1 R33, unless there is a different way of activating it.