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Ahh ok. With my old brushed motor I was using the white PVC plumbing pipe over the top of my rubber tyres (found it was too harsh mounting ABS straight onto the rims).

I then got myself a Castle Creations 5700kV brushless setup for Xmas and it was WAY too much for the shitty old TT01 chassis.. so got myself a HPI Pro-D chassis.

The power of the brushless is ridiculous, even just on a 7.2V NiMH stick pack.. I have since found that the rubber "drift" tyres that come with the TT01D kit work the best for my setup, heaps of traction when needed but when you squeeze the throttle on there's heaps of wheelspin :/ Srsly, with this motor it's almost like the old motor on the plastic tyres!

I find with the proper rubber tyres it's a lot nicer to control and isn't so much like skating on ice.. only downside is they come pre-glued to WRX style rims :P

When I've got some spare cash (that isn't being spent on the 32 or paintball), I'll get some nice rims and try some proper racing slicks (hardish compound).. and maybe a 3S LiPo pack if I can find one that will fit in the chassis :laugh:

How do you find the pro-d chassis? I was going to put a brushless setup in my hpi e10 but like the tt-01 i dont think it will handle the power...so thinking of upgrading chassis as well

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Mate you have inspired me to dust off some old hobbies! I have an old super hornet that I had modified when I was younger but, Your Top secret esk GTR looks dope!

Yeah haven't used my truck in a while either.. nitro is just more effort and everytime I take my truck out, I do something stupid (like try hit some ridiculous jump) and break something lol

For road stuff (drifting), I find it's much easier to have a smoke while the motor cools down and just throw another battery in. The real nerdy part is, my speed controller plugs into a PC and you can map the power and braking curves, set traction control (pfft) and some other things.. now, I have a PC in my 32, was out drifting the r/c car one day and thought, could really do with a bit more power down low.. so plugged it into my carPC and had a tinker :P

Thats f*kin cool!

wow forgot about this

niran They do make nitro powered drift cars but the Electric ones are far more common. Much easier to maintain and alot less hassles. I've read of destroyed clutches and engines from nitro cars and fixing them can get quite costly.

bubba I agree what you said about brushless systems. Crazy power and the more recent ones (Mamba/Novak ect) now lets you fiddle around with the power band and delivery. I run the older gen. Novak brushless and can'tfault it one bit.

djay33 Where are you located? i can send you website/forums of most rc drift cities based in Aus. In terms of getting parts, hit up this website. His based in Japan but has an Australian account for easy payment methods

http://www.genkidoridori.com

Jimmy time for a DE-T conversion for you (OohH) jokes

And for anyone looking at getting into r/c drifting: steer clear of eBay immitation crap. Stick with brand named ones like Tamiya/Yokomo/HPI. The immitation ones will die in the ass and then it's game over looking for replacement parts. Chassis's like the Tamiya TT01 is a good start, they offer bang for buck and parts are readily available

How do you find the pro-d chassis? I was going to put a brushless setup in my hpi e10 but like the tt-01 i dont think it will handle the power...so thinking of upgrading chassis as well

Absolutely awesome! The only gripe I have, is that unless the surface is really clean, little rocks get stuck between the LCA's and the chassis :wub:

I have a TT01 aswell and it's a great starter for use with pvc tyres. Unfortunately, when I put the brushless in, all it wanted to do is swap ends (even with rubber tyres). The Pro-D chassis handles the power excellently!

Hey AE92 I was thinking about getting this setup as I want to geta R/C Drift Car.

Nismo Coppermix Silvia (TT-01D) Drift Spec

Item No:58386 

【 Specifications 】 

●Length: 444mm

●Width: 187mm 

●Height: 132mm 

●Wheelbase: 257mm 

●Drift Tire Width/Diameter: (Front&Rear) 26/63mm 

●Frame: Bathtub Type 

●Drivetrain: Shaft-driven 4WD 

●Diff. Gear: Front/Rear 3-Bevel

●Steering Rod: 3-piece 

●Suspension: 4-wheel Double Wishbone 

●Dampers: CVA mini shock oil dampers

●Gear Ratio: 8.35:1 

●Motor: Type RS540 

●Full Ball Bearings 

●Speed Controller: ESC (sold separately)

【 Separately Required Items 】 

●R/C Unit: Expec GT-I or 2-channel R/C system

●Battery: Tamiya 7.2V Racing Pack or equivalent with charger

●Alkaline Batteries for Transmitter

post-46584-1238468602_thumb.jpg

post-46584-1238468625_thumb.jpg

+ I want to get the Wide Body HKS S15, R34 GTT and the RX7

post-46584-1238469032_thumb.jpg

post-46584-1238469145_thumb.png

post-46584-1238469157_thumb.jpg

Are the these 3 Body Shells Interchangerble with the Nismo Coppermix Silvia chassis?

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Good start on picking the TT01. You will find that some Local Hobby Shops (LHS's) will flog a fair pricing for ready to run kits. eBay often has some with mods done to them.

All three bodies you listed are indeed interchangeable. You will find that because the bodies are wider you will need higher offset to fill the guards. Remember with R/C's that a higher offset means more dish (feels the guards better like lower offset is to real cars). So +6 to +9mm offset is desirable on r/cs and 0mm is plain crap.

Tamiya offers zero offset wheels with the S15 kit and its shocking, you want at least +3mm to fill the guards.

Mods are easy to come by, LHS's generally have them. As a start, ball bearings and an alloy driveshaft will give slightly better speed and durability. You can get change shocks too; TRF suspension is the equivalent of Tein coilovers and Tamiya oil dampers are like KYB/Nismo sport shocks.

Hope it helps :)

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Good start on picking the TT01. You will find that some Local Hobby Shops (LHS's) will flog a fair pricing for ready to run kits. eBay often has some with mods done to them.

All three bodies you listed are indeed interchangeable. You will find that because the bodies are wider you will need higher offset to fill the guards. Remember with R/C's that a higher offset means more dish (feels the guards better like lower offset is to real cars). So +6 to +9mm offset is desirable on r/cs and 0mm is plain crap.

Tamiya offers zero offset wheels with the S15 kit and its shocking, you want at least +3mm to fill the guards.

Mods are easy to come by, LHS's generally have them. As a start, ball bearings and an alloy driveshaft will give slightly better speed and durability. You can get change shocks too; TRF suspension is the equivalent of Tein coilovers and Tamiya oil dampers are like KYB/Nismo sport shocks.

Hope it helps :rant:

Yeah Thanks heaps!

- So in order to fill the guards of the wide body shells you need wider wheels... Cool that's easy...

- "ball bearings and an alloy driveshaft will give slightly better speed and durability. You can get change shocks too; TRF suspension is the equivalent of Tein coilovers and Tamiya oil dampers are like KYB/Nismo sport shocks"

So I believe the "stock" ball bearings and driveshaft be fine for just drifting..? So what your saying is you can upgrade it for more advanced R/C Drifters but not really needed just for starters yeah?

- LOL! Lower the car... Will that improve the Handling a lot more for a R/C Car?

Again is it needed for beginners or is it for the advanced RC Drifters?

Yeah the LHS rip your wallet apart for sure, I have seen the Nismo R34 GTR Z-Tune body shell for like $70! :) But some are lower in price in the $60 range, but you still have to buy the paint and spray it up.

Wheels and tyres and paint are not too bad but still it all adds up towards the cost.

IF I do get the TT01 S15 Silvia, Iam planing on painting it Matt / Satin Black or a Dark Red with a Matt Black Roof.

Or I might buy the Wide Body S15 and paint that Matt Black as the Nismo Copper Mix does not look much of a wide body.

I wanna get something like the Rauh Welt S15 Silvia.

post-46584-1238630729_thumb.jpg

What is the Genaral Maintenace like on a RC Drift car?

You got to make sure all the screws, nuts and bolts are all tight.

Does it need oil top ups for the suspension and lubrication on the gears and parts of the diffs?

Tyres will be worn after heavy drifting and does the chassis collect a lot of dirt and dust, in which you will need to clean out?

Is it best for drifting on a smooth track, in your garage on a smooth concret floor rather ashfelt out on the street?

If you can answer that for me that be AWESOME!

Cool!

IMO I wouldn't go nuts with the mods on the TT01, because when you wants lots more power the TT01 chassis just won't handle it!

Good to learn with though :)

I'll try get some footage of my brushless pro-d for yas, fun fun :kiss:

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Lowering the car will reduce body roll. If your buying the TT01D series then it's already got most of the simple mods to get you going:

-oil shocks

-ball bearings

-alloy driveshaft

and some other stuff.

The matte finish is slightly tricky. Instead of painting from the inside, some guys get the matte finish from painting the outside. To fill the guards you don't have to get wider wheels, just a higher offset number.

The car will get dusty after some time; to clean it, buy yourself a cheap paint brush and brush it down after use. That or you can use an air compressor.

Smooth track is preferred, for me anyway. I have no problem drifting on asphalt but it's abit slower due to the limited grip you get.

And what bubba said, you don't have to go nuts on modding the TT01. It can get costly and won't be as rewarding as the newer/better chassis out there. Keep it simple and just have fun with it really.

cheers

IMO I wouldn't go nuts with the mods on the TT01, because when you wants lots more power the TT01 chassis just won't handle it!

Good to learn with though ;)

I'll try get some footage of my brushless pro-d for yas, fun fun :D

Cool thanks bubba and yeah post some footage will be nice!

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Lowering the car will reduce body roll. If your buying the TT01D series then it's already got most of the simple mods to get you going:

-oil shocks

-ball bearings

-alloy driveshaft

and some other stuff.

The matte finish is slightly tricky. Instead of painting from the inside, some guys get the matte finish from painting the outside. To fill the guards you don't have to get wider wheels, just a higher offset number.

The car will get dusty after some time; to clean it, buy yourself a cheap paint brush and brush it down after use. That or you can use an air compressor.

Smooth track is preferred, for me anyway. I have no problem drifting on asphalt but it's abit slower due to the limited grip you get.

And what bubba said, you don't have to go nuts on modding the TT01. It can get costly and won't be as rewarding as the newer/better chassis out there. Keep it simple and just have fun with it really.

cheers

Yeah cool thanks to you and bubba!

Yes I was planning just to paint the body shell on the outside to get the Matt look.

Ah yeah I miss read about the "Offset" of the wheels, I understand what you mean now LOL!

Cheap paint brush sounds good and I gota air compressor at work I can use, so thats covered.

Ok sweet, so I pretty much just leave the car stock and buy a nice S15 / R34 / RX7 Wide Body Shell and a nice set of wheels with a higher Offset.

What is the Offset on your R35 GTR? Yeah I know it looks crazy LOL! Just for interest...

Hey guys my old man bought me an R/C car bought a year and a half ago.... Well i havent used it much.. but already i have pretty much fried my battery backs and one is about dead even after you charge it.... also thing im up fro new rims as i have beat up mine pretty bad..... Just after a few links of where to buy new shells and new tyres etc from... I currnelty have a WRX and Audi TT shell and im in need of new ones...

My car looks amost the exact same as this.... Is this a good start ?

post-51724-1238727306_thumb.jpg

Whats the offset on those wheels, 9mm, on a 180mm shell??? it's extreme

I did not even know tamya brought out the R35 gtr shell.

I got 30+ shells for mine, But I still love my very first my S15 drift pig...

Edited by 35NIK

Hey all!

Final got myself the Nismo Coppermix Silvia (TT-01D)Drift Spec.

Everything was pre built and just had to charge the battery up, plug and play.

I also gota Wide body S15 Body Shell and painted it Gloss Black on the inside and Taimya bought out a Flat Clear spray in which I sprayed on the outside to give the Matt/Satin finish.

Just gota trim up the wide body and I have on order 2 sets of TE 37 wheels in Black (HPI Brand) to fill the guards.

Post pics soon!

i have the TT-01 but i have TYPE E so its way above all you TYPE D and standard people :( Heh Heh Hehhhhhhh.

ill get some pictures of the car and videos of drifting and doing dounts on the tiles and leaving black lines everywhere.

the engine in it is pretty powerful (18900rpm) and its tamiya brand motor so it ended up costing $750 all up

i have the day off tomorrow so looks like ill be playing :(

TT-01 TYPE E comes with modified parts. (engine, 4wd LSD is tougher and the driveshaft is better setup than the others ...... there are a few more little bits.)

i have some pictures of it here.

P.S. i was driving it and trying to video it and it was just to hard so ill get some tomorrow or the next day because no-body is home.

Photo-0112-1.jpg

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Its only stock at the momment and i dont really know what to do too it?

i goes about 55km so i dont know if i want and motor parts.............

the LED kit is cool because the rear lights work and front are Xenon looking :D

ill get videos of it doing stuff later.

Edited by central coast person

If you want to know anything about it just tell me because i have all the info manuals and i found what the differences are between the Types in the TT01 range.

Edited by central coast person

^^Yeah awesome!

As ppl have said in this thread, the TT-01 is good for beginners yeah..?

Your R35 GTR looks nice! The LED kit looks nice, I can't be bothered with it, even tho my kit came with it... LOL!

What did your R35 GTR body shell cost you?

Also Iam planning to make up a Metal Muffler just for looks but still gota measure up where to cut in the body shell and head down to the local hobby store and buy some metal piping and cut it up.

I gota post some pics of my S15 I just made up.

Atm its got stock black Nismo LMGT4 wheels with +0 Offset, as Iam getting black Volk TE37's this Saturday to fill the guards and I might paint them Bronze or Gun Metal Grey.

Iam still getting use to the drift technique and I realise you need a large area not just your garage LOL!

Gonna give it a drift tomorrow in my street and practice.

i have two video's it . There ok quality.......i took them on the mobile so it isn't the best quality and there on the side so you have to watch it with a tilted head :unsure:

This one is when i was driving it on the driveway and in the garage doing some slides. I have racing tires on so there HEAPS good for grip but i can still drift it when the floor is slick (goes for about 1 minute) :

In this one i drove it on the tiles with the same tires but it drifts fine. The space is so small i could only drift it a little bit (goes for about 30 seconds) :

It looks better if you flip the screen on its side :unsure:

^^Yeah awesome!

As ppl have said in this thread, the TT-01 is good for beginners yeah..?

Your R35 GTR looks nice! The LED kit looks nice, I can't be bothered with it, even tho my kit came with it... LOL!

What did your R35 GTR body shell cost you?

Also Iam planning to make up a Metal Muffler just for looks but still gota measure up where to cut in the body shell and head down to the local hobby store and buy some metal piping and cut it up.

I gota post some pics of my S15 I just made up.

Atm its got stock black Nismo LMGT4 wheels with +0 Offset, as Iam getting black Volk TE37's this Saturday to fill the guards and I might paint them Bronze or Gun Metal Grey.

Iam still getting use to the drift technique and I realise you need a large area not just your garage LOL!

Gonna give it a drift tomorrow in my street and practice.

Umm the TT-01 is an Expert build series. So the build is expert and the car for racing.

these are also expert build lines.

M-

DT-

DF-

there beginner models are Quick drive models. Also the Touring car class's so thats SOME TT-01 chassis but not many......all the TA and TB etc are not classed as expert but as intermediate. The silvia you have is for beginner modelers but want a expert car (because it is a TT-01 chassis) so they come pre-built.

It cost like $380 for the Type E and its comes with the R35 Body in the box so it ended costing me about $430 to finish it off.

Edited by central coast person

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