Jump to content
SAU Community

Sub Troubles In R33

GTS25_R33

By GTS25_R33,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTS25_R33 Enthusiast

GTS25_R33

Posted
Posted

hey all,

have bought a sub and amp, after a few run ins with the car off, i went for a drive. all sweet except there was a whisltin noise in the boot, where sub and amp are that gets more and less pitch as the revs get higher and lower, all most like a turbo.

i left the car on idle and had a look, turns out it wasnt the amp makin the noise, like i first thought, it was actually the sub.

the power cables dont conflict with the RCA leads in any way. wen i turn the amp level done, it goes away but i dont want the sub to be turned done. could it be that the amp is just so close to the battery? now of my falcons or utes have done this. any ideas??

also, where r some common rattle points in R33 Skylines? i hate drivin with it up loud cause it rattles so much and i hate to think wat ppl think of me as i drive past.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261883-sub-troubles-in-r33/
Share on other sites
GTR-32U Mentor

GTR-32U

Posted
Posted

The rattles something that happens in all cars when you crank huge Bass.Its usually the numberplate rattling, and if you fix that up you will always find another. Hell in my old Falcon I managed to rattle the sender unit off the fuel tank! Fuel leaked out and stunk like hell. New Gasket and a ton of Silastic later fixed that one.

As for the Whistle you hear, Thats a common problem with Amps but not hard stop. Try a noise suppresion circuit..Go to a Car Hifi store and show them and they will sort that one out for you.

GTS25_R33 Enthusiast

GTS25_R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok thanks mate. ill get one of those then.

as for the rattles, i dont think its the numberplate, ive held it and pushed it in and pulled it out and it doesnt stop, pretty sure its comin from inside, like the jack or wheel brace or somethin. could even be a broken weld and a panel rattlin around.

ill sus it all out tomorrow after work.

cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree, and yet my "HRM " hat is also on, as his wideband is in disagreement with the narrowband where they used to play closer attention to each other.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's the thing. Especially at idle, changing the cam angle by that much could be spewing more fuel out the exhaust courtesy of everything happening that bit later. More fuel also means more air (if the fuel didn't burn, then neither did the O2) and so the O2 sensors can start to tell interesting but misleading stories. And the specifics of what is happening could easily be affected by everything else you changed as well. And it could be dynamic, where a few revs more or less could somewhat change how the engine is breathing.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Good idea on the temp probe. The mv readings of the O2 sensors are very similar to one another, as is the injector pw. I went through logs in the past to see if there was a discrepancy and there is. Because they alternate up and down as narrowbands do.. they do often 'switch' as to which one is more. They were never 20%+ (more like 1-2%) so it's possible the difference between 20 and 15-17% is a similar discrepancy to 2.0% and 1.7% which I wouldn't have really noticed in the past. We did think about spacing the strut brace. Unfortunately the ~20mm that the GTR brace is lower than the GTT brace is effectively what you need to clear the vents. Moving it up would make it very uncomfortable, but it's plausible that 10mm is a unhappy medium between both hard places... The good news is.. using MR HAMMER it was actually pretty easy to bend back the bent bits to make sure the guard and headlight/new headlight tabs line up right. Yes, we used a R34 GTR guard to make sure the bolt holes all lined up with a known straight guard. As above, you can see the side skirt and the GTR guard are not meant to play together, but everyone seems to think this is a simple fix to the point where nobody who has had these talk to one another mentions how... ...so I'll just assume they know how to fix it when it comes to paint jail time again. Whoever they are. Nobody returns my calls. There's so much changed with regard to the ECU and the car.. that the next step really is to connect the scanner and attempt to drive the thing. It'll be pretty clear pretty fast how in or out everything actually is...
    • GTSBoy
      UniClutch

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's nasty! I think there is perhaps an inherent problem is using elastomers in such environments. The whole thing can and will get quite hot, and elastomers are not famous for their temperature resistance. On top of that, if the components are cast rubber or urethane and so on, there might be QA/QC problems with bubbles or voids in the material that could critically change their performance. They might just tear apart after being squished (presuming that any elastomers are used in compression rather than tension, I'm thinking that you squeeze one with a void in it and it tears the wall of the void to the outer edge of block, then the next time it extends or otherwise twists, it just gives up). This is all purely hypothetical, but it makes me wonder if the things that they have put into it to make it nice to use/live with are perhaps going to cause occasional failures like this. I wouldn't be getting up in arms over it, unless there are many repeats. I have personally ruined an Xtreme clutch - just an HD thing. I can't remember if it was still behind the 20 or was after the 25 went in. But it inverted some of the retaining spring/clip things around the outside. No-one could explain it. It wasn't thrashed, there wasn't heaps of torque being put through it, and there were no obvious problems other than the above. They were quite concerned by the event so they replaced it even though it was a few years old, which was very nice of them. As far as I am concerned, these things happen with clutches.
×
×
  • Create New...