Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just recently my remote central locking doesn't work. I have searched the topics here but not sure if any relate to my problem!

I find it difficult to lock and unlock the car (using the key fob). If I press it continuously... whether it be the lock/unlock or trunk, after a while (time varies time to time) it responds.

I am sure its not the battery in the key that is going flat....but is there something I can check in the car, fuse maybe? your help would be of great benefit.

Once, the car recognizes the signal and responds...it will unlock and lock without a problem...but if i leave it for a while, I'll be pressing the key like crazy again.

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261943-remote-central-locking-help/
Share on other sites

Try changing the battery first before you say its not the battery..thats what my car was doing before and changed the battery ..then boom!.. happiest person alive, before other problems came up..

anyway good luck with that, if that doesnt solve it..could be more serious.. :)

Benny

I've had this problem twice from 2 different reasons.

1. Not sure what the exact problem was, but I assumed that the key fob was cold. I noticed that if i warmed it up by rubbing it a bit (for about a minute) then it will start working again. This might have been from a weak remote battery because after i changed it, it never happened again (or maybe because its hotter weather now :P ).

2. I had a dodgy stereo installed where the DVD-ROM Sat Nav used to be. It was a cheap chinese deck that malfuntioned and stayed on even when i turned the ignition off. I swapped it over to a JVC one and it started working again. I can only assume that this was due to the deck draining the car's battery. Maybe change the car's battery if you have so recently or check if anything is draining the battery while the car is off.

Hope this helps.

Benny

I've had this problem twice from 2 different reasons.

1. Not sure what the exact problem was, but I assumed that the key fob was cold. I noticed that if i warmed it up by rubbing it a bit (for about a minute) then it will start working again. This might have been from a weak remote battery because after i changed it, it never happened again (or maybe because its hotter weather now :down: ).

2. I had a dodgy stereo installed where the DVD-ROM Sat Nav used to be. It was a cheap chinese deck that malfuntioned and stayed on even when i turned the ignition off. I swapped it over to a JVC one and it started working again. I can only assume that this was due to the deck draining the car's battery. Maybe change the car's battery if you have so recently or check if anything is draining the battery while the car is off.

Hope this helps.

Point 1 is a no-brainer......def rem batt.

Point 2 is excellent, and from my experience, should be wholly considered!...(if any sort of power draw with keys out is present....cheap decks/aftermarket/bad wiring are potentially to blame)....a multimeter/current/amp meter placed in series to batt output is the simplest way to find out.!!...oh, and I found out!!

LoL thanks guys.

The reason i thought it wasnt the battery to begin with was that I had a new key made for the car and came with a 'new' battery. Coz the new key hadn't been programmed yet, i thought I might change the batt to see if it solved my problem...it didn't

So yeh...taking the next step which was to listen to you guys...I got myself a new battery...installed it....and it now works.

Thanks guys for making me wake up! :/

  • 1 month later...

i've got the same problem..

i changed my battery in my key, and still not working..

disconnected my car battery to start fresh,, and still nothing.. soo not sure whats next??

my alarm has been draining my battery a lot though? like after a couple of days of not starting, it had that dying sound...

atm i have the alarm fuse out, since then no drainage haha,,

any ideas? could it be something with the key? or something internally with the car,,, is there any way to check if the key is working or not?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AFM looks to be a z32 The injectors maybe old Nismo 555cc The turbo tag when looked up seems to be a gt2871 , imagine it would have the bigger rear housing .82 all look like the mid 00's mods when he started building it up. Vac hose seems right but would need to see a diagram. Great work going up there and sorting it out, be a good club car for someone wanting a good reliable rig.  I know I would like to have it but no space and too many other race cars at the moment.
    • Heys guys I got a r32 gtst speedo is out by 10kph seems the faster I go the more it be out  just seeing if anyone else had to problem and knows how to fix it 
    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
×
×
  • Create New...