Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I hate to be the barer of bad news but put simply, there is no way of getting a 'full' quality system including amp and sub for 1 kilobuck. You can always run with cheaper components but beware, they're exactly that and you'll only have to fork out more later on down the track.

I'd suggest you do your system in stages of save for a little longer. The cheapest 'full' systems we do are around the $1800 mark. :P

Liquid,

I have just installed some gear into my r33 and while it would not suit the sound quality conscious it is nice, clear, loud enough for me and most importantly for some of us, inexpensive.

I purchased a JVC 995 MP3 headunit new off e-bay for $400

(cheapest h/u i could find at the time that was MP3 compat and had 4v pre-outs and a controllable sub out)

For the doors i purchased a set of Kenwood 16cm 2-ways $115

Rear (not necessary but i thought, what the heck) i have Pioneer 16cm 2-ways approx $100

Sub, Clarion 12" dual voice coil package deal in enclosure from Autobarn $249

I am driving the sub off an old but faithful Alpine amp that i have had for some time so saved a bit of money there.

So thats a total of $865 if you were to find a nice reasonably priced amp (jaycar maybe) for the sub you wouldn't be too far over your budget. I am sure if you shopped hard you could find all the above cheaper.

As i said above, not perfect sound, not competition quality but makes plenty of noise and not distorted.

Oh yeah, the above speakers all went straight into the factory mounts.

Hope this helps

Gary

man i would suggest save up for a little. you really do get what you pay for! I have people all the time come into work in the same situation, spent money, then come back in a few weeks disappointed with their stereo's. It really whats up to your own imagine what you do and how much u spend, but a grand will certainly get the ball rolling

i disagree with some of the above comments. some people just want a stereo system for some decent sound, and are not too into it unlike you or I. Theyre into other things and would rather spend their money on something else. $1,000 gets u a very nice aftermarket stereo system but like anything, more money will get you something better. It's obvious.

If you're not going to worry too much about ur sound system, and want to spend ur money on other things , ie. performance mods or something, then a 1K system u'll keep for a very long time.

So True, my mate with a charade has

Kenwood H/u = $230

Pionneer Co-ax Front Speakers = $120 (?)

Pioneer 3 way 6x9's = $150

Clarion 12" Sub / V-net amp = $180-200 (?)

Total > $700

and honestly, this thing for a cheap ass system sounds bloody good, he isnt much into cars, just bought the head unit and fronts when he first got it, eventually got 6x9's for some more noise then recently got the sub and amp off a friend.

It retains good quality at very suitable volumes and when he wants to just go loud for fun and doesnt sound full sh!t or anything.

before anyone get annoyed at this, i am not having a shot at any one, i am just trying to help liquid85 out. Sometimes 2nd hand gear is not always an options due to availability, 2ndly having all that gear is a great start, but you still have to put it in, you still are up for a few hundred by the time u buy / build a sub box and wire the whole thing up. I know quite well it is possible to scrape together somthing for under a grand, but man you have a lot of shopping around to do. A good start maybe something like a m200 alpine amp and type s 12, can be done for under $500. I just dont want to see something in a car, and then not be happy. Good luck with finding a system anyway, let us know how you get on :D

i think its a safe bet to say, that unless u have a luxury model car, any aftermarket system is going to be way way better than ur stock system. Depends on how good u want it thats all.

i have a friend in a similar position to boners, bought some splits, some 7x10's and an alpine type S sub, amped the splits and sub with a boss audio amp, and it sounded very very nice! Then, satisfied wit his system, he spent his money on other things.

My system in my old vl was $1100 (thereabouts) and it was the following

1 x Pioneer DEH3050 (I already had it)

2 x Clarion 10" Subs ported in the boot with portholes to the parcel shelf

2 x Pioneer 6" door splits with custom door moulds (front)

1 x Pioneer VNET2100 AMP for rear subs

1 x Pioneer VNET450AMP for door splits

1 x Set of crappy rear speakers which I already had

This was fully installed and setup by Garys' Car Radio in high st Preston. Rod did me an awesome deal. Best sounding system for a grand I had ever heard. Even gave good competition for 2k systems.

Hi,

If you are on a budget dont worry about buying a DVC sub as they are not any more powerful. They only enable you to pull more power from the amp by using different loads etc.

You dont really want to get a DVC sub and then bridge a 4 channel down to 2 channels and use 1 for each voice coil as technically each bridged channel will provide different output.

Just go nice 2 channel, and single voice coil sub and bridge the amp to 1 chann.

Originally posted by hvm

Hi,

If you are on a budget dont worry about buying a DVC sub as they are not any more powerful. They only enable you to pull more power from the amp by using different loads etc.

You dont really want to get a DVC sub and then bridge a 4 channel down to 2 channels and use 1 for each voice coil as technically each bridged channel will provide different output.

Just go nice 2 channel, and single voice coil sub and bridge the amp to 1 chann.

thats not the idea but, wouldnt you parallel up the sub by running a wire from the positive of one voil coil to the negative on the other, then run power from the other two plugs, then bridge 2 channels of the amp for sub, and have the other 2 channels for front speakers.

just my 2c

hey liquid85

$1000 will get you a really good bang for your buck system, what type of car audio shops do you have around your area? places like JB HiFi ect ect, places like these just go crazy when they see cash in hand. So make them offers. 300 - 350 will get you a good headunit for this price bracket. I would go pioneer:)....UsAlly to make a good front stage go some 6" splits, depending if you want to be heard from the shops or sound qauilty the size of the sub and and box will play a big part. For sound qauilty go 8" to 10", if you like your rap and RnB go 12" to 15", as i say to my mates the box is pretty much every thing when it comes to the desired sub bass. Spend no more than 200 on the sub. splits you could get for 200. Make sure when you purchase an Amp Ask to see the hand book to see the Specifications of the amp, find out its true WATTS RMS power output, just because an amp has shown on it 200watt by 4, dosnt mean it produce's that amount of power, its just a marketing tool. Thats what sucks most people into buying amps thinking they have you huge power output. Save around 70 for wireing kit and RCA leads and other things like speaker wire, 8 gauge wireing kit sould be fine for a single amp setup. 400 will be enough for a good 4 channel amp for your purpose.

:)NOW BARGIN WITH THEM:)

if you need any more help just ask

cheers mate

shaun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...