Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my power fc tuned last night by Guiltoy,

Seems to run out of fuel at high rpm, he thinks its the fuel pump.

So question is, what fuel pump should i get for a mildly tuned 32 Gtr?

He recomended a Bosch 040, and i've seen Walbro 500hp in-tank pumps for $195 on sau.

Any experience or insight would be appreciated

-Michael-

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/
Share on other sites

Bosch pumps are far superior to walbro.

Guilt-tripper told you Bosch, you trust him with your tune...so trust his advice on fuel pumps too.

The Bosch item is about $40 more...people who skimp on products are always the ones who scream the loudest when it goes 'pop'.

Its your fuel system...its keeping your engine alive...stick your hand in your pocket and put in a decent pump.

BTW...my 1000hp GTR uses an 040 as a lift pump.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4489502
Share on other sites

Get a Bosch 044 and get it installed properly. Then it will be an intake pump :P And will run more HP than 040

if its a 300kw car an 040 would be better as all the 044 will do is cycle more fuel through the rail, unnecessarily heating the fuel and robbing the engine of horsepower.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4489518
Share on other sites

You doing it youself or getting some one else to install it? If yourself, get a Nismo/Tomei one, piece of piss to install and no 1/4 tank bullshit surging. Trust me, when you have to install the 040 you will be kicking yourself for not spending the extra coin on the nismo/tomei one. They are annoying to install, helped to do one in my mates 15, never again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4489519
Share on other sites

You doing it youself or getting some one else to install it? If yourself, get a Nismo/Tomei one, piece of piss to install and no 1/4 tank bullshit surging. Trust me, when you have to install the 040 you will be kicking yourself for not spending the extra coin on the nismo/tomei one. They are annoying to install, helped to do one in my mates 15, never again.

slice of urine in a R32 GTR...15mins tops. If put in right (in the bucket with the proper mount and clip) it wont surge as the bucket is filled by the reg. return line.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4489530
Share on other sites

Yeah but is that because you have done 14,000 of them? I'm sure if i did one again now, it would take me half the time. However if this is his first attempt (like mine was), im pretty sure there will be some swearing involved.

However maybe you are right and R32 GTR's are easy, never done one of them personally.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4489546
Share on other sites

Had same probs with gtr making 340kw running a little close to the edge fuel, Installed a Bosch 023 intank (using the DIY thread on SAU) and added an adjustable regulator bumping the pressure up a bit from 30 to 45 PSI and it has solved the problems.

Pump-$170 new

Reg-$165 new

Clamp-$5 new

Edited by doubled
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261997-fuel-probs/#findComment-4491987
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Incidentally, I also put v3 of the tune on the car and did an oil change from 5w20 to 5w40 to see how it affected oil pressure in the mid to high end. I'm still happier with the thicker oil and will stick with it, but clearly the system is happy with 55psi even if I'm not!
    • So the other thing I got sorted over the weekend was Z1 oil catch can install. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-baffled-oil-catch-can-kit-p-23546.html It was a good kit, most importantly it came with preformed silicone hoses in the right shapes rather than trying to bend/join regular straight rubber hose. It did come with crappy spring clamps not proper hose clamps so I ditched them On the down side, it is made for LHD cars and RHD cars have the main ECU harness running straight through that location, I ended up bending 2 mounting brackets so the loom is up against the brake master cylinder compartment wall to make room for it....otherwise everything fit without modification Intercoolers off on both sides, but there was enough room to get everything done without disconnecting (and therefore having to re-bleed) the coolant lines. Each is mounted with 4x 12mm headed bolts, plus in and out side hose clamps (7mm headed, nice) and 3 electrical connectors on the navigator's side which were a real pain to undo (probably for the first time in 13 years).   Also one of the mounting bolts on the driver's side was cross threaded, thanks Infiniti/Nissan workshop mechanics. On the navigator's side, the catch can plumbs into the factory hose that goes from the cam cover PCV back to the intake.  This is the 2 new hoses in place. All simples and direct fit On driver's side, there is a bracket provided that mounts to the throttle body, they even provide slightly longer bolts to allow for the bracket thickness which is nice (although, they don't have captive washers like the factory bolts of course) In that pic the main loom brackets are not in place, once I had "adjusted" them across it now sits up against the panel and just clears the OCC The remaining problem with this is emptying it; currently you have to remove the 3x m4 bolts that hold it to the bracket and both banjos to remove it (probably dropping the banjo washers at the same time) pull it apart to empty then replace. I do have some fittings coming for a remote drain from underneath that will also add a little capacity...it is very small and will need to be emptied every oil change to be sure.
    • Noise sounds to me could be either wheel bearing related (have had similar from bearings going) or that tail shaft is still loose. Or something like a heat shield touching the tail shaft.
    • You wouldn't get away with saying the opposite, if you were there.
    • Do some wool fluff testing on the vents
×
×
  • Create New...