Jump to content
SAU Community

DUAL STAGE BOOST CONTROLLERS - (Low/Hi Boost)

pushead

By pushead,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

pushead Veteran

pushead

Posted
Posted

Recently just installed the Turbosmart dual stage boost controller low boost set to 7psi and hi set to 10psi running stock turbo/intercooler.

While i thought running 7psi on low boost is stock, it seems to be much faster?? now boost comes on at 2,700rpm is this normal? i can feel more pull even on low while on high it goes ballastic.

Anyone else experienced similar?

Cheers All.

51jay Mentor

51jay

Posted
Posted

Are you complaining ???...or what?? :P

Are you relying on the stock boost gauge or do you have aftermarket

The model Turbosmart you have incorporates a wastegate anti creep gizmo which helps to bring on boost earlier

bbenny Mentor

bbenny

Posted
Posted

yeah with the turbosmart gear i have found that they actualy spike higher than what you set, then drop back to the setting.

so it prob feels faster because its hitting that boost level a little higher then dropping to the setting.

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

You'll also find that a lot of the bleed valves these days have some sort of anti wastegate creep built into them.

So by just installing one and leaving the boost stock, the boost will come in earlier and a bit harder.

When I was on the dyno, the operator was supprised to see my car had usable boost as low as 1800rpm in 4th gear !!

It's cause the bleed valve I'm using has an adjustable anti wastegate valve, as well as the normal bleed valve (it's a TurboXS HPBC).

J

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

Ben,

I'm not 100% clued up on it, but from reading the instructions it looks like it has two valves.

The first is a adjustable pressure valve so it will only pass air (that's funny :( ) when a certain amount of pressure has been reached. Then the second valve bleeds off air to hold the boost at a certain level.

So..... The way I've got mine set up is that the first valve is set to 10psi, so the first valve won't open until it see's 10psi, then the second valve bleeds off enough air to hold 12psi.

This way the wastegate (in theory) see's no pressure until 10psi - which leads to eariler spoolups :(

J

pushead Veteran

pushead

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey 51jay :( using my stock boost guage..will be investing in a aftermarket gauge in the near future. when it creeps up it sits just below the +7 mark on stock gauge. It use to run +3.5 1/2 way. How at roughly 5000rpm and above the car jerks alittle.. I have SAFC but haven't tuned it yet.. is this why the car jerks after 5000rpm + because not enough fuel pumping now that it is boosted to 10psi?

THanks for the feedback ppl. much appreciated.

51jay Mentor

51jay

Posted
Posted

The +7mark=about 1bar or 14.6psi, the halfway mark about 0.5bar or 7.3psi so 10.0psi would be about 3/4 mark. Boost level will be much easier to regulate with a properly graduated aftermarket guage. Sounds like your hitting up to around 12-13psi,....shouldn't hurt it.....enjoy the power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • The Bogan
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By The Bogan · Posted

      From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • GTSBoy
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
×
×
  • Create New...