Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, long time reader here first time poster

I've got a r32 gts25 sedan that i've sold my 20det setup (284rwhp if anyone cares) to build a RB30det, so far i've got a garret truck turbo, similar size to 3540, rb30e bottom end and r32 25de head, gtr valve springs, oil pump collar, just buying up the bits as i see them basically

I've also aquired a set of 26dett pistons, I've tried searching and haven't found a definite answer to if i can use them or how much work is required? i have a set of 30e pistons to which i'll use if the 26's arent any good, basically what i'm asking is  a) how hard are the 26 pistons to fit, and b) is it worth it?

thanks in advance guys. I'm sure i'll have many more questions as the build progresses

Cheers :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty sure you have to use RB30 pistons as their pin heights etc are to suit RB30 rods & crank..

cheers for the reply, so i cant use 30 rods with 26 pistons? i havent had a chance to measure anything up yet, was trying to avoid wasting my time if people already knew the answers haha

might have to take them into work and whip up some drawings to see if its a suitable option,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure on the exact differences, I'm using RB30 spec forged pistons. You might find that with 26 pistons on 30 rods on a 30 crank that you could be smashing pistons into valves.. need an experienced RB builder to answer that :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers guys, turns out one of them is poked anyway so ill prob just stick with the 30 pistons, on the subject of 30 pistons, i've got a set that i had ultrasonically cleaned, when they came back they had lots of pitting in the top of the piston, im assuming its just bad casting/ has anyone else had a set that were the same? i tried to take a pic but it wont pick up the detail- aka budget camera

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That pitting is probably from detonation..

I was hoping that wasn't the case but had my suspicions, picking up another motor tomorrow hopefully the pistons in that one are better, first motor had a bent crank (god knows how) so i had to buy a whole new motor to get a new crank, what a mission just to get more power!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bent cranks are quite common in i6 engines.. just make sure you get all your clearances checked and machine appropriately.
 

it had about 0.3 bend in it, decided to try another as its cheaper to get a new one than grind, bit of a gamble to but its a low k's engine so should be ok

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You all are absolute legends! Thank you for helping me put this into context with your comparisons!
    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
×
×
  • Create New...