Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, ive gone through the stickied threads and read about mods to improve power in NA Skylines.

Basicly, ive got a R34 25GT, stock aside from 2.5" catback and a highflow panel filter.

With a budget of $1000 ( give or take 100 ), what would you guys think would be the best mods for power gains??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262246-1000-performance-upgrade/
Share on other sites

100000k service. :blink: will cost that much from a dealer but worth it

ahh ive still got another 25,000 for that :)

Extractors and cat, maybe change your sparks to some irridiums if they're due.

power and time wise what would be the improvement in your opinion ??

Well...the key to unlocking power in an N/A motor is to relieve as much restriction as possible.

You've helped air flow in better with the hi-flow panel filter, which is in a box so it won't be soaking up as much heat as an unshielded pod.

You've done the catback.

Upgrading extractors will help scavenge the exhaust gas out of the engine quicker, and will generally help increase the power band in the mid-range.

Cars have the cats ripped out and replaced with compliance cats when they're imported. Chances are you've still got a compliance cat. Changing this will help improve flow between the extractors and catback exhaust.

Good healthy spark plugs will help with ignition, and of course air+fuel+spark = power. Good fuel also. If you're not already using 98RON fuel I would suggest it.

After that, disconnect neg terminal on battery, foot on the brake for about 10 seconds, reconnect, let the ECU relearn.

After all that's done, then you could look at a SAFC to clean up the Air/Fuel ratios to get that little bit of extra power out and improve fuel mileage...though the dollars spent on a SAFC + tuning could be put elsewhere.

Other than that, adjustable exhaust cam gear to get bit more power out. I would do that as part of the 100,000km service though since they're coming out anyways.

You mentioned the car is stock besides the catback? How's your suspension? Some lowered springs and sway bars will help make use of power already there.

If it were me I'd be deciding between extractors and cat, or suspension, if i had $1000 to spend.

The way I done it, I done suspension first, wheels/tyres, brakes, then went for big power. With power you want control. I know that the N/A R34's aren't the most powerful of cars out there, but upgrade your suspension and a good set of tyres, and learn to make use of the power that's there with the handling capabilities :/ unless of course if you're only after straightline power, in which case the N/A R34 Skyline isn't the best choice.

Sorry, havnt read the other suggestions, but...

extractors and piggyback computer, help economy and get a smidge more power, if you got an emanage ultimate, might be able to get a bit more power (with more ign where needed - usually in the higher rpm for n/a)

Alternatively (or as an extra) ;

Cams and/or Headwork, i.e. more compression from bit of a shave and a thinner say copper gasket.

even one of the second options (all your going to get for 1k) will give a good increase in power but is harder/more of a pain, first option will make an only just noticable difference, with a bit better drivability and economy.

How big is the TB/AFM on the 34's?

Put it into a savings account.

Wait three years.

Sell your NA and buy a turbo.

OR

Brake/suspension upgrade.

lol im actualy doing this atm, only 22,000 to go for a vspec 34 ahahha :D im just abit bored of the NA 34 and want abit more straight line power so ive decided that i can sacrifice a maximum of around 1k..

Thanks for the extensive writeup NDAWG, suspension wise i have done the coilovers and have swaybars in so its not too bad. Realisticly, would i be gaining anything out of a set of cam gears ?? To be honest that was the first thing which came to mind. Does anyone know of a reputable workshop around the sydney area that i can contact in regards to working on the neo 25de ??

cheers guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...