Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Probably not. I can see a lot of copies having problems too...

I remember my Turbosmart 45mm ext gate had a '14psi' spring, best it ever achieved was 12psi, so we just stuck a 7psi one in there as well and it was ~17psi off the gate.

I can see other actuators possibly having similar problems in either form

so not all 14psi actuators are created equal??

I don't think it's that you just need to check what the actuator is rated at.

For example the HKS upgraded actuator for R33 is a 1430-RN006. This has a boost rating of 78.5-88.3kPa (0.8-0.9kgf/cm2) = 11.4-12.8psi. I assume this is affected further by the turbo you have, how much preload you put on the actuator rod etc. I assume this means it has something like a 12psi spring. If you need something larger then you can always contact someone like GCG and get it made to what ever you need. This way your boost controller doesn't have to 'fudge' things as much.

Saying all that, it doesn't mean the ~12psi rated wastgate won't allow you to run 14psi with a bosst controller.

Edited by Fry_33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I'm not a diff swapsies specialist, but I am pretty sure the 300zx ran an R220 not and R200 like the C34 Stagea, so I think it is of no use to you. As you said, all you need to do is get the centre swapped in the diff you have, which might be best done by a diff specialist. The current centre is probably desirable to someone to track so an easy path might be to swap your mechanical centre for someone with a standard centre (which is a viscous LSD, and almost certainly won't have any limited left). The only thing you have to watch swapping R200 internals between diffs is that the number of splines on your car's stub axles has to match the donor car, or you need the centre+stub axles and make sure they have the same number and pattern of bolt holes as your rear axles.  You swap your current ratio onto the new centre so you don't have to worry about matching the front. Alternatively, centres like the Nismo pro are much gentler (and have adjustable "tightness") so you could buy on of those from somewhere like Jesse Streeter or Nengun (noting it may cost you 1234% extra in tariffs by the time it lands)
    • Id just remove the solid subframe bushes.  you are over complicating things.  on a side note make sure you do some research on the skyline shed before buying from them. 
    • Just got back from overseas and once again Rego and service time. Supercheap auto cant find my plates on their list to match my car to buy a crush washer lolol. NRMA has my number plate linked to R35 GTR which i have explained once again that it is not a GTR. Its scary in the sense that if somthing happens and my insurance wont cover me if its the wrong car on their list even though they are the ones that have made the mistake. Im not sure NIGHTCRAWLER why the neg comment? Its a 2020 V37 400R Skyline? and asking for someone to post their VIN number is crazy just to prove it? Its a legit Nissan Skyline from japan factory 400R its does use the Q50 infinity chasis but this is the Japan model. 
    • no, you aren't, but good to see you pop by
    • I can also smell fuel in oil if that helps. 
×
×
  • Create New...