Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So....I need to give up on standard discs and move up to 2 peice ones. One major reason is overall weight (one piece discs are terrible) but also long term cost of replacement discs.

I can think of

DBA5000

Project Mu

Stoptech

Who else should I look at and who has actually used and has feedback?

At this stage I will probably go DBA due to price and availablility unless something else comes out of this thread.

So....I need to give up on standard discs and move up to 2 peice ones. One major reason is overall weight (one piece discs are terrible) but also long term cost of replacement discs.

I can think of

DBA5000

Project Mu

Stoptech

Who else should I look at and who has actually used and has feedback?

At this stage I will probably go DBA due to price and availablility unless something else comes out of this thread.

Ok, from Japan you will also find you have

Biot

Endless

Apex (The only company I know of that makes off the shelf 2pce for the 296mm rotor R32 GTR)

If you look through the AP and Wilwood range I don’t doubt you will also find the correct sized rotors leaving you to go custom hats to suit.

So....I need to give up on standard discs and move up to 2 peice ones. One major reason is overall weight (one piece discs are terrible) but also long term cost of replacement discs.

I can think of

DBA5000

Project Mu

Stoptech

Who else should I look at and who has actually used and has feedback?

At this stage I will probably go DBA due to price and availablility unless something else comes out of this thread.

You need to have a think about how much cooling you need for the rotors. The list varies alot in terms of how many internal cooling vanes the things have.

From the least:

DBA, Project Mu

To NFI

Biot, Apex.

To the most

Endless, Stoptech.

Oh and Project Mu make a 2 piece for the R32 Gt-R.

I have some Project Mus on my 32 (with Roys F40s & a 324 rotor). Comparing the Project Mu to the DBA gives a big tick to the mus on their metallurgy. I had far fewer problems with cracking, crazing etc with the Japanese stuff. Of the rest Endless is $$$'s, Stoptech distribution blows hot & cold (Sometimes it just blows but it may be good again). Can't comment on Biot or Apex.

If you are not in a hurry try Greenline. Also if you are not in a hurry wait for the Aussie dollar to recover against the Yen.

http://www.ozforex.com.au/cgi-bin/chartsFa...&period=Day

Shopping out of an AP or Wilwood catalogue makes it easier to decide on number of cooling vanes etc.

And good spot on the 296mm Proj U rotors that fit the R32 GTR, i never realised. Thats about the perfect upgrade for thge Silvia lads, 296mm is plenty of rotor up front, though the R34 310mm GTT rotor would be ideal budget banger setup and 17" wheel combo

yeah sorry I did mean 324 not 296. The discs have to be standard dimensions (324x32) or within 2mm from memory

At this stage I am happy enough with the stock rotors and don't want to spend more than I have to. Thats why I was tending towards the dba gear....and I was really wondering if anyone has used them and had problems with cracking or otherwise in the 2 piece range.

Not too keen to stuff around with custom hats unless there is good support locally for a brand when I need support/new parts in a rush. Nothing worse than rotors I have to wait 8 weeks for

Sorry I should have been clearer. What I wrote other than one line, related to the 324*30 rotors.

If you are just going to get standard rotors & are ok with cooling then Project Mu take alot of beating. Otherwise I would go and spend large & get some Endless stuff.

Delivery was only a few weeks ex Greenline. Price was (in Yen)

Project Mu SCR Pro (Front) 324x30 8 slit type R32 GT-R V-Spec (Brembo)

1 60,638 60,638

Shipping: 22,900

Total: 83,538

Shipping was probably more expensive & a little slower for me because unlike most of the country I don't live in Sydney and/or Melbourne. They send you tracking info etc so you know where you stuff is at any one time.

They are also available locally (Racer Industries) the brake bloke there is helpful & knows his stuff - just not sure of the price.

Why don't you buy a pair of complete hats/rotors etc of whatever type & then also get a spare pair of rotors. Or better yet a complete set so your race day isn't ruined by a busted brake rotor.

As for DBA I have reached the conclusion that the problem with them is mostly centred around the DBA4000 series & at that rotors for the R32 GT-R. Like Roy says the 5000's appear to be ok. But for my 10 cents worth seeing as its brakes we are talking about I would be looking for more than just ok.

At this stage I am happy enough with the stock rotors and don't want to spend more than I have to. Thats why I was tending towards the dba gear....and I was really wondering if anyone has used them and had problems with cracking or otherwise in the 2 piece range.

I have std sized dba5000's on the front of my 33GTR...have stood up well to a lot of abuse (I'm pretty hard on brakes) with only surface cracks to show for it.

Ben, no brake ducting allowed unless it was standard. And thanks Mr Nissan, the 32 N1 had rubber brake deflectors mounted on the castor rods :D They cost a bomb for genuine but I couldn't go past them

Thanks for the prices djr, I spoke to racer industries and they quoted a very similar price for a pair of project mu, 1400. I had a good look at the vanes too there was nothing tricky in there (ie no curved vane or anything like that).

I wish I was allowed to run my G4 brakes but they are 330 not 324. The more I look at them the happier I am.

Autobarn quoted 630ea retail for dba5000 slotted and about 420 for discs only (no hats). I'll talk to racebrakes this week but I'm pretty sure I'll go with the dba gear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm).    Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer.   20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get.   Make sure they're zinc plated.    If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971.  Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price.   New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama).    Same thread but 16mm long.
    • Well, if that filter was impeding fluid flow, then it could have similar effects to faulty solenoids. The TCU will register a fault when it does something (ie, changes the state of a solenoid) and does not detect the required result. If there are other causes that can make the same lack of result, then they will be indistinguishable to the expected cause for which the TCU has a code.
    • Yellowjackets, red ones, blue ones (other than Splitfire) have all been demonstrated to be unreliable on turbo engines. That unreliability can be anything from outright failure (ie, 4 out of a set of 6 working out of the box) to just not being strong enough for the task, on a boosted engine. Not enough of us care about NA engines to know whether that unreliability is an issue for the undemanding needs of an NA RB20. I should think though that the DIS-008 should fit the 20. There's not really any reason for the head/coil mounting area to be any different on those 2 Neos. I wouldn't be buying Splitfires, or any other old tech coilpack, for a car in this day and age though. I would buy modern pencil coils and do what needs to be done to adapt them to the loom. That's relatively trivial these days, with numerous kits for fitting R35, or Audi, or Yaris/Corolla coils.
    • Keen to see how much work is needed to get an abandoned Skyline going. My R32 has been sitting idle for three years or so but finally got some time to get it going again. (Also lurking SAU and trying to hit 10 posts so I can start my own intro thread with pics)
    • Hi. Which coilpacks can i use in my engine? I looked at the Splitfire but the closest "match" i found was SP-DIS-008 but even that they do not show RB20DE NEO so iam not 100% sure. Or maybe different one which will 100% work? I saw many on ebay but they are some cheap "strange" ones. What about Yellow Jackets? Many thanks 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...