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Another addition, When i was looking at the turbos and wastegates, it looked like the actuator rods were too long? the wastegate "tang" was not in the middle, it was going toward the rear of the car. How far do they have to go to keep the wastegate open? I saw this when the car was turned off.

Edited by MUNDA
  Strik3r said:
if your making no boost at all, then i would guess your wastegates are stuck open/opening as soon as there is pressure. Possibly sonething wrong with your wastegate actuators ?

Already suggested this. I assumed he had already checked these.

Actuators push the rod towards the rear of the car. Pull the e-clip off and lift the rod. If you can pull the flapper towards the front of the car from that point, then you have an actuator stuck open.

With the rod off the flapper, if you look through the hole in the rod and the flapper fully closed, only 1/2 - 1/4 of the pin on the flapper should be exposed by the hole. This means you should have to pull the rod towards the back of the car to get it over the pin when the flapper is fully closed. If not, then it's loose or open. Boost problem fixed when you buy new HKS units

Just opened her up, took a look at the actuators. They seem to be closed now, i have attached a picture below, do they seem correct? The are going slightly toward the front of the car. I also took a took at them with the car on idle, they stay in the same position.

Oh, and both actuators are in the same position, slightly forward as described in the picture.

post-60357-1238394237_thumb.jpg

Edited by MUNDA
  3lit3 32 said:
You were told how to test them. A picture means shit.

They only have to be open 1mm and you won't see boost til 6000rpm.

I don't mind helping out but geez man you gotta follow instructions.

Sorry. Someone needs to knock some sense into me, i need to learn how to read. It's late in Canada, i was going to get ready to go to bed that's why i didn't check by taking the actuator off. I will follow the testing steps tomorrow and will re-update this thread.

If the actuator is working, but not closing fully, does that mean it's stuck, or just doesn't have enough strength to close the gate? In that case, can i adjust my actuator rods to close the gate fully?

  MUNDA said:
Sorry. Someone needs to knock some sense into me, i need to learn how to read. It's late in Canada, i was going to get ready to go to bed that's why i didn't check by taking the actuator off. I will follow the testing steps tomorrow and will re-update this thread.

If the actuator is working, but not closing fully, does that mean it's stuck, or just doesn't have enough strength to close the gate? In that case, can i adjust my actuator rods to close the gate fully?

Sometimes they can be re-adjusted but other times the diaphram spring is shot and it's not able to be fixed. If you have the time, adjust the rod first. See how it goes. They can still have spring tension but sometimes open at 1 or 2 psi which causes the same issues. That needs to be tested with a vacuum/boost checker (we call them a mightyvac)

No I am referring to when the actuator starts to open up.

If the spring inside is shit then you can try to adjust it, but it may not fix the problem...if it doesn't then use a mightyvac to see what pressure opens the actuator.

I'm gonna charge you for a plane ticket in a minute.

Alright, so i took off both actuators, looked at them, and they were fine. The springs seem to be hard, and the actuators were NOT stuck, i followed your steps. i really don't know what to do now. I'm completely lost, i have absolutely no idea with what could be wrong?

What else could it be?

Thats a quick video that i made, you can clearly hear the turbos spinning on brake-boost. Note, when the car turns off, that is not due to a stall, after revving like that, the car usually dies, i dont know why, maybe this video can clarify something?

Thanks,

MUNDA

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