Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 335
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It depends on which series and year it was made. The R33 GTS-t coupe weighs in at 1360-1370 usually, with the sedan coming at 20kg more on all variants (which is where the 1390kg weight would fit in).

The series 2 R32 Type M coupes weigh in at 1320. I don't know why they added 60kg on between series 1 and 2 for the R32 but it's gotta be the worst of both worlds. The power of an R32 with the weight of an R33 :D

Equipment like turbos, bigger brakes, active LSD, ABS, air bags, bodykits, sunroofs, etc all add weight, so it's impossible to say "all R33's weigh Xkg and all R32's weigh Ykg." It varies by a fair amount.

Originally posted by -Joel-

I alwas thought the R32 weighed in at around 1280kg's.

I might have to throw it on the weigh bridge up near home.

Well, it does :P But give or take depending on what year model and what options it has.

Hi guys so many posts on this thread while I was attending to some Bathurst business. Let me try and catch up...

Firstly, I noticed Wolf updated their web site when I pointed out that it did not show any Plug In ECUS other than S14 200SX. Glad to be of help guys.

Hi Steve-SST, I have read a few of your articles and noted the type of work you do on cars and your philosophy is not much different from mine. Which is a little unusual, there are a lot of people who are only interested in the single maximum power number. It is good to have someone with your experience and skill contributing, I really appreciate your contributions to this forum.

But (there is always a but, isn't there?) you are a Wolf dealer, so it is in your own best interests to promote them. I would like to give Wolf another try, but I keep adding up the cost and it works out more than a Power FC, a proven product. Why should I take the risk? When there is no cost benefit. There is more mechanical work involved in fitting a Wolf, which equals even more cost.

To answer the technical differences question please refer to the post on Wolf Vs PFC.

Sydneykid, Glad your back, thought we had upset you:D Steve does sell other ECU's and does tune PowerFC's, but if the costs are equal then the Wolf has far more features and comes with laptop software which makes it easy to tune.

Mechanical Work involved in fitting the Wolf? Surely not with the plug'n'play's, which are as easy to install as a PowerFC.

I was quoted $500 to tune the Wolf3D to suit the new motor/turbo/injectors.

PowerFC is a good option however the Air temp/Engine temp compensations with boost/ignition and fuel sounds very very attractive.

I would rather feeling safe to put my foot down just after sitting in a traffic jam and knowing that its going to pull some boost, timing and dump a little more fuel in as not to detonate.

Especially spending close to 10k on a motor/turbo/injector setup.

Well done Buster, that's a great effort. I reckon there is another 0.4 second and 3 mph in it. Please send it in to the HPI boys, we only want Skylines on that page.

Hi GTS-t VSPEC, maybe I missed something, how do you get a MAP signal? Or a knock signal? Without doing anything other than plugging the ECU in?

Com'on Steve-SST, "a map sensor lines no big deal", maybe for you and me, but it stops the Wolf being truly plug in and go. What about fitting a knock sensor, that's not so easy? Since an often quoted advantage of the Wolf is no airflow meter, don't you have to physically remove it? Fabricating and mounting a replacement is quite tricky, especially if you want to take full advantage of not having an AFM, by replacing the entire inlet pipework. These are not easy, 5 minute jobs for a backyarder.

I have a question that's been hanging around for while maybe you can help me with.

When you fit a MAP sensor do you run a hose from the plenum to the sensor? Is it mounted inside the cabin? On the firewall? Somewhere else? Or do you mount the MAP sensor itself direct on the plenum?

If you run the hose from the plenum to the sensor, do you find any delay in response? It takes a few 10ths of a second for the pressure to travel through the hose, so having it as short as possible would be a good idea. Mounting it on the plenum would of course be better but it involves some fabrication work. So is it worth it? ie; is the improved response noticeable?

Thanks for any help you can give

We can run internal or exturnal MAP or MAF or even TPS V MAP for GTRs with no MAF can you?No. Like Autronic ECUs Wolf has no problem with the inbuilt MAP sensor but we can run with different options if we want.I'm finished with this thread so please only post the facts.

Sorry Steve, what did I say? All I asked was, in your experience is the improved response worth the trouble of mounting a MAP sensor on the plenum? Compared to running hose from a remote MAP sensor.

It is just that I have never tested it back to back and I wondered if you had.

I apologise if it came across as anything else.

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

I hope the 50% lands on my engine still being in-tact.

Paul, I think the only area you may have dramas is with your injectors running dry, as you are already at 90% - boost isnt too high, and the bottom end should be fine for acouple more pulls - easily. Remeber JMS red R33 put down 446odd rwkw with stock bottom end - you are *only* running 411rwhp:D

Anyways, good luck hope all goes well and those injectors dont decided to call it a day.

Ive now read several posts concerning the JMS RB25 making 446rwkws.

Can someone shed some light on this engine, namely the turbo setup it was running and whether the thing was an import yard special, namely "we have 50 other RB25s out back so if she blows...mehh who cares"

I suspect the engne was a bit of a Saturday "qualifying special" and was never intended to see extended service as a street car/track car etc. Could be wrong but interested in hearing more about what was actually achieved on std internals

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...