Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These rims came with the car when I bought it, but not too sure how to tell if they are genuine volk wheels or not.

Ive uploaded some pics below of whats on the back, it says its made in Japan etc, but who knows. Little bit dirty obviously they havent been cleaned in a while :D

With the tyres on they weigh about 16kg - does that sound a bit heavy with the tyre on ??

Would be nice to know if they are genuine or knock offs if I ever decide to sell them.

rim1t.th.jpg rim2w.th.jpg rim3.th.jpg

rim4.th.jpg

rim5.th.jpg rim6.th.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263081-are-my-volks-genuine/
Share on other sites

Well if you take the tyres off hey should weigh about 6kg. also depending what size and width of course, but give or take +1kg

If they all weigh the same atm, you only need to take ONE/UNO/UN tyre off hehe :thumbsup:

If they all weigh the same atm, you only need to take ONE/UNO/UN tyre off hehe :blink:

haha..should i have meant tyre instead of tyres.

I would be inclined that the individual would be smart enough to do exactly that.

Unless you want to be thorough and 100% sure they're ALL genuine.

If its stamped 'made in japan' on the rear than more than likely its the real deal. Also check for the original stickers on the inner rim, that should give you a fair indication too but just by lookin at it, seems to be the genuine stuff!

well they dont say VORK made by RAVS engineering, thats a good start, to get the actual VOLK stickers would be a massive pain in the arse and not worth it to do it on a non volk rim, just to look like volks, i tried to get new decals for my work meisters.... 16kg is a reasonable weight... not heavy by any means.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's kind of interesting - They definitely do builds that split the difference between what they like and what will generate views and engagement. The NC Platform always surprises everyone in a good way, in an uncomfortably good way some may say. They could throw a LS in there and arguably have the best (and best performing) car of the entire stable. But that isn't necessarily what draws views, because people viewing don't want to accept the vegetables of a LS NC MX5 being a superior vehicle in every way (including fun) than a RB26 240Z. This is also why there's not a lot of content about the GR Yaris (on the web in general). They're too good, yet 'only a Yaris' The community doesn't want certain cars to be as good as they are - to beat their hero cars, and I believe the NC MX5 is absolutely one of those cars.
    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
×
×
  • Create New...