Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why?

My Splitfire coils are less than a year old and I have had two die on me. Same thing, would mis like crazy when on full boost and up in the revs. put two stockers in and it runs perfect. easiest way to check is just put in stock ones, process of elimination!

My Splitfire coils are less than a year old and I have had two die on me. Same thing, would mis like crazy when on full boost and up in the revs. put two stockers in and it runs perfect. easiest way to check is just put in stock ones, process of elimination!

No I was asking why gap the plugs down? It's a stupid idea that people have got into their heads that it is MANDATORY to buy 0.8mm gapped plugs. Nonsense!. If you only have mild mods up to 250rwkw then you start at 1.1mm and work your way down slowly. If you need to run 0.6mm gap then there is something else wrong. I have cars running 400+ kw with more than 0.8mm gap and no issues.

I have had people come to me before with missfires, frig around with the coil packs, checking fuel pressure, replacing filters, plugs, other coil packs for hours and hours and find out the CAS has been wound forward. Causes the same issue.

Set your base timing first, then do the other checks.

The tuner says of there is something wrong with the CAS, during the tuning it would already pick it up. It should cause the timing to go all over the place during the tuning process. But since it did not happen he eliminates the problem CAS first.

what do you call high boost, could still be blowing out! even with splittfires I have to run a .6 gap to run any higher than 17 psi

Well that clearly shows you have a problem elsewhere… You know that ye?

I was 24psi, 350rwkw, stock RB25 coils - 15 years old. They were very good condition obviously - 0.8mm no problems.

I wouldn’t call 24psi "high" when I know of many over 30psi using either stockers or splitfires and not having to run a filthy 0.6mm gap.

So if on near new coils you're having to go down to 0.6mm you have other issues to look at.

Could be ignitor (depending on series), the loom, connections, plugs any anything else inbetween

So in saying that

No I was asking why gap the plugs down? It's a stupid idea that people have got into their heads that it is MANDATORY to buy 0.8mm gapped plugs. Nonsense!. If you only have mild mods up to 250rwkw then you start at 1.1mm and work your way down slowly. If you need to run 0.6mm gap then there is something else wrong. I have cars running 400+ kw with more than 0.8mm gap and no issues.

Here here. 400rwkw & 0.8mm = no problems in the world with SERIOUS boost, not some small mans 17psi :D

For less than 20psi you should have a very nice gap margin on PULP

Well that clearly shows you have a problem elsewhere… You know that ye?

I was 24psi, 350rwkw, stock RB25 coils - 15 years old. They were very good condition obviously - 0.8mm no problems.

I wouldn’t call 24psi "high" when I know of many over 30psi using either stockers or splitfires and not having to run a filthy 0.6mm gap.

So if on near new coils you're having to go down to 0.6mm you have other issues to look at.

Could be ignitor (depending on series), the loom, connections, plugs any anything else inbetween

So in saying that

Here here. 400rwkw & 0.8mm = no problems in the world with SERIOUS boost, not some small mans 17psi :D

For less than 20psi you should have a very nice gap margin on PULP

thanks nismoid you could be onto something, maybe it's my bad tuneing, maybe its not, since my car now runs 380 rwkw at 24 psi useing the same coils and same plugs! maybe it's more common a problem than you think!

That result honestly means nothing, unless of course you still need a gap of 0.6 to achieve it... in which case you still have a problem.

So indeed it is a common problem, a common problem in that people think 0.6 is acceptable (that is the problem).

Its hiding the fact there is something else in the setup letting the overall down.

fair enough, I was only offering an idea to try, I could possibly run a higher gap but i'm too lazy to try, it idles smooth, gets good economy, goes like stink and doesn't miss a beat, I have put on a larger turbo and havn't tried larger gap yet, maybe the inlet temps play a big part?

So indeed it is a common problem, a common problem in that people think 0.6 is acceptable (that is the problem).

Its hiding the fact there is something else in the setup letting the overall down.

I think I love you.

Probably not it, but ill ask anyway, what boost controller you running?

I had a similar issue on the dyno, car started sounding like it was missfiring anything over 18psi and couldnt work out why. Then i remembered that the Profec was set to a max boost cut of 18psi, anything over and it sounded like it was missfiring, turned it off and she was all sweet.

So it is 100% missfiring and not just sounding like it is?

Edited by PM-R33
mr benno is first in line i believe...

Yes, he broke the news to me tonight.....didn't even tell me to my face, bloody phone call.

He told me you are actually alright in person, I thought you were a flamin mongrel all these years :down:

Spark plugs an shit (just to keep it on topic)

Splitfires are shit these days, mine have done exactly the same, swapped them out for stockers and my intermittant miss magically disappeared. Although stockers still arnt good enough for higher boost so it's onto plan C...

Didn't the HKS Drag GTR use stockers?

No I was asking why gap the plugs down? It's a stupid idea that people have got into their heads that it is MANDATORY to buy 0.8mm gapped plugs. Nonsense!. If you only have mild mods up to 250rwkw then you start at 1.1mm and work your way down slowly. If you need to run 0.6mm gap then there is something else wrong. I have cars running 400+ kw with more than 0.8mm gap and no issues.

I have had people come to me before with missfires, frig around with the coil packs, checking fuel pressure, replacing filters, plugs, other coil packs for hours and hours and find out the CAS has been wound forward. Causes the same issue.

Set your base timing first, then do the other checks.

quick question in regards to base timing ...

my base timing is set to 17 degrees (R34 GTT) and I'm pretty sure that's not the factory base timing ... we only found out AFTER the ecu was remapped. The tuner said to leave it, it shouldn't be an issue ... but I have occasional misfires.

Could this be due to the base timing being set to 17 deg? I was told by the tuner if we change the base timing now, the remap tune would be useless and we'd have to do it again.

It all depends on how much timing correction he has put in on the tune.

Going back 2 degrees is not going to make a hell of a lot of difference to the power - although it can make 10hp difference in most cases. But where the timing is set too high, it can mean the difference between life and death for your engine. It's not a matter of whether 15 or 17 is right, it's a matter of it being correct everywhere.

I can't tell you whether your tune has been done correctly because 17 deg base timing is not exactly a bad thing, but check it out all the same, it may be causing your problem, it may not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...