Jump to content
SAU Community

Metal Cat

lcy

By lcy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

lcy Rising Star

lcy

Posted
Posted

Hi guys and girls!

I have a Metal Cat installed more than 24 months ago. Recently i have been having whitish/grey smoke coming out of my exhaust. Mechanic says it might be some engine oil going into my engine after a session at AHG skidpad(i do not have a oil catch can before was told the reservior on the rocker cover should be sufficient enough). There shouldnt be a problem with the turbo seals as it is a Brand new unit from HKS. The car has been backfiring once in a while.

Whitish/grey smoke was also thought to be condensation but i dont think so cause the car has been driven for more than an hour on the road.

This only happen when i hit full boost! On idle it doenst happen. SO please do help me. I am having tons of problems with the car, all i have done is put good parts and proper mantainance into the car.

SO my question is: Are this the symptoms of a failing CAT?? Does it cause greyish/ whitish smoke to come out of your exhaust?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263107-metal-cat/
Share on other sites
lcy Rising Star

lcy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Whitish smoke normally due to Condensation in the exhaust but how can this be happening after an hour of driving in a 28 degrees day? Shouldnt all the "water" in the exhaust be gone by now :blink: ?

WHitish smoke can also be cause by engine oil or coolant if i am not mistaken. The tuner and mechanic isnt worried about it because the still reckon its condensation in the exhaust. They have taken the car for a drive and there was another car folowing from behind, all they say was ITS MORE GREY THAN WHITE :D . I am putting all my trust in them as they are one of the most reputable tuner/shop in Perth :D .

The whitish/greyish smoke only blows out when i hit 16psi on most gears!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263107-metal-cat/#findComment-4504860
Share on other sites
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

white smoke on boost means there is a seal that is not working properly - the 3 usual suspects are turbo (water or oil seal), head gasket (oil into the combustion chamber), or leaking from the plenum water galley into the head.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263107-metal-cat/#findComment-4504915
Share on other sites
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
Whitish smoke normally due to Condensation in the exhaust but how can this be happening after an hour of driving in a 28 degrees day? Shouldnt all the "water" in the exhaust be gone by now :( ?

Correct - its not water/condensation. That will all boil off even before you cars fully up to temp.

WHitish smoke can also be cause by engine oil or coolant if i am not mistaken. The tuner and mechanic isnt worried about it because the still reckon its condensation in the exhaust. They have taken the car for a drive and there was another car folowing from behind, all they say was ITS MORE GREY THAN WHITE :ermm: . I am putting all my trust in them as they are one of the most reputable tuner/shop in Perth :happy: .

The whitish/greyish smoke only blows out when i hit 16psi on most gears!

My guess is oil - what does the dipstick say?

Dead cat = black smoke.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263107-metal-cat/#findComment-4505170
Share on other sites
lcy Rising Star

lcy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i just re-read my post. its usually water in the combustion chamber that causes white smoke. burnt oil is usually blue.

What causes the water to go into the combustion chamber??

And why doesnt the whitish/greyish smoke comes out during idling. If theres water shouldnt there be constant smoke coming out :O ?? DOenst the water recirculated when it is idling?

The oil level was check regularly, it seems fine.... and the oil pressure on the dash all seems normal.

Just came back from a drive, got my missus to drive it while i follow her around.

The smoke smells more like something is burning.... Smells like weed :D .... Nah just joking. IT smells like something is burning. Doesnt smell like running too rich (petrol smell)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263107-metal-cat/#findComment-4505647
Share on other sites
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted
What causes the water to go into the combustion chamber??

And why doesnt the whitish/greyish smoke comes out during idling. If theres water shouldnt there be constant smoke coming out ;) ?? DOenst the water recirculated when it is idling?

The oil level was check regularly, it seems fine.... and the oil pressure on the dash all seems normal.

Just came back from a drive, got my missus to drive it while i follow her around.

The smoke smells more like something is burning.... Smells like weed :( .... Nah just joking. IT smells like something is burning. Doesnt smell like running too rich (petrol smell)

i covered that.

white smoke on boost means there is a seal that is not working properly - the 3 usual suspects are turbo (water or oil seal), head gasket (oil into the combustion chamber), or leaking from the plenum water galley into the head.

from what i can gather it sounds like you're smelling burnt oil. find out where its coming from. check the following:

- the lowest point on the hot side of your cooler piping,

- radiator for milky residue under the cap and

- your intake pipe.

if it is actually oil then there will be traces there. if not then at least we can rule that out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263107-metal-cat/#findComment-4512821
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      Result of another R35GTR build. Similar specs as above except this is running our bigger size SS-2 profile option. Made similar power except this car runs on Pump 98 fuel. Build specs are: Nissan R35 GTR 2015 model stock engine and box. ETS street intercooler boost logi intercooler piping with tial bov, boost logi turbo inlet pipe ID 1050 injector DW 300C fuel pump Decatted oem down pipe and y pipe& HKS exaust 3inch intake pipe Upgraded actautors HyperGear SS-2 high flow option Final result is 639whp / 477wkws hubs, Ron 93 / P98 fuel at 20psi.  
    • Therry
      Left & Right Window Regulators for 2013 Skyline V36 Coupe

      By Therry · Posted

      Duncan:- it affect both sides.  Driver side is worse.
    • Duncan
      Left & Right Window Regulators for 2013 Skyline V36 Coupe

      By Duncan · Posted

      That seems like a very special issue!  Does it affect both sides? Either way, I would disconnect the driver's side switch and see if it still happens, noting that might require removal of the whole door card which is a bit of a pain (it does on V37 and HY51)  
    • Therry
      Left & Right Window Regulators for 2013 Skyline V36 Coupe

      By Therry · Posted

      MBS206:- The windows start to slowly open themselves. GTSBoy:- Battery is new since Dec. 
    • Vee37
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Vee37 · Posted

      I currently have a 2008 370GT Coupe, with the big brakes (Akebeno if I'm correct), and Its coming time to get new pads. Previously, I had a 2003 350GT Coupe with the stock sized brakes, not Brembos. I had custom wheels on it that were pretty open to the brakes, and when I first put the wheels on it, the rims where completely coated with brake dust. A few years after adding the new rims, I needed to change to pads on that car. I didn't do any research, but I told the mechanic of the problem with the brake dust. I also told him I didn't track the car or even drive around the streets harshley. But the dust was an issue. The mechanics changed the pads to a different compound, and the dust was GONE! The other change I noted was that when coming to a complete stop, instead of having to press harder on the pedal as I approached 0kph, I had to actually lift off a little to not come to a hard jerky stop.( My unfounded explanation is they became stickier as they heated by stopping ) Since I got my 370gt with big brakes, I noticed that that as I came closer to stopping, I had to press harder and harder to reach a full stop. I am not talking about hard, just harder. I brought the car in from another state, so when I had a blue slip done, I asked the mechanic what he thought of the brakes, and he thought they were brilliant. The only negative of these pads on the 350GT, was that they squealed when cold. So driving out of a shopping center carpark, it was a little embarrassing, as the brakes squealed, and I am sure people thought that I needed new brakes, when they were actually fresh. I have no idea of what type of compound they were on the 350gt, but whatever it was, I want to get the exact same on my 370GT. They weren't ridiculously expensive, and were replaced at the local JAX (which is no longer open), so I am certain they would be a pretty common big brand, off the shelf type/brand. My current mechanic suggested I need top get the rear pads changed soonish, but he suggested standard Brembo pads. Which I expect to behave the same as the current ones and not like the ones on the 350GT.  I don't think dust will be an issue on the 370GT. With the behaviour I describe above on the 360GT, does anyone have a suggestion of pad material that will act like the change I had done on the 350GT?
×
×
  • Create New...