Jump to content
SAU Community

96' R33 Rb25det

syfon

By syfon,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dani Boi Grand Master

Dani Boi

Posted
Posted
Hi guys, i'm just curious what is the best oil to use in my RB25. It currently has 126,000 KM's. I changed the oil around 2,000KM's ago and used a Nulon 15w-50.

What do you guys use? I mean, thicker, thinner, etc?

Cheers!

I got a 96 R33, use 0w30 mobil synthetic. There are heaps of threads regarding what oil to use

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4506766
Share on other sites
autoworx Rising Star

autoworx

Posted
Posted

personally I would use a slightly heavier oil than the 0 stuff in a 13 year old 100,000km+ rb

also I dont know what nissan australia recommend for the vq35 on their aus delivered 350z but the jap/usa v35s use a super light weight low friction oil and weve seen some slight issues with a heavier oil in them here

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4508994
Share on other sites
syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just checked the oil during my lunch break, was barely any in the sump :s yet the dash oil-light wasn't on and the engine sounded normal o.O

Anywho, just brought 2 litres of that nulon till i completely change it on saturday.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509435
Share on other sites
br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted
I just checked the oil during my lunch break, was barely any in the sump :s yet the dash oil-light wasn't on and the engine sounded normal o.O

Anywho, just brought 2 litres of that nulon till i completely change it on saturday.....

was the engine hot?

Usually to get accurate oil readings you have to drive it around till it hits operating temp. Stop the car and let it rest for about 5 mins (to let the oil drop down) and then check the oil.

Pull the stick out, wipe it and put it back in. When you take it out again, that's how much oil is left in the sump.

If you did that, ignore the above haha. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509744
Share on other sites
R33_NICK Community Regular

R33_NICK

Posted
Posted (edited)

i used to run Castrol EDGE 10W-60, valvoline 15w-40 and nulon 10w-40 but then i finally decide to settle with Motul 300V 10w-40 (gotta admit its expensive), all synthetic, nothing less.

how much oil did u put in? RB25s carry 4.7L including oil filter. i used to run 10W-60(pretty thick stuff) and 15W-40 and had no oil consumption, though it takes awhile 2 warm up

Edited by R33_NICK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509977
Share on other sites
br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted (edited)

lol

i have a feeling this debate on what brand of oil to use can go on forever... Basially tho theres a few things you need to look at

1. 100% fully synthetic... Like Mobil 1 or most other high end brands like redline.

2. Cold weight... should be max of 15... lowest of 0. This weight doesnt matter as much, as this is only when its cold... when it heats up it will get thicker. Thinner oil is better for cold start up anyway as it takes less time to move around and coat all ur engine parts. Its not like you are going to be thrashing the car while its cold. Easy driving only!

3. Hot weight... should be around 30-50... i wouldnt go anything above 50 as its a bit thick for street use.

Other then that theres not much else to think about.

So why do i use mobil 0-40? (apart from the above) Xspeed who check out my car recommended me to use it... so i did.

Edited by br3ndan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4510132
Share on other sites
Mr_GaZZa Rising Star

Mr_GaZZa

Posted
Posted (edited)
personally I would use a slightly heavier oil than the 0 stuff in a 13 year old 100,000km+ rb

+1

and WOHOoO 30/50, thats like tank oil? you must have high crank pressure 24/7 haha, and then again i wouldnt use the THIN LIGHT oil,

engines pretty worn in at that km's and remember the engine oil goes throught the turbo.. so if you dont want to see blue smoke get something mid range

also I dont know what nissan australia recommend for the vq35 on their aus delivered 350z but the jap/usa v35s use a super light weight low friction oil and weve seen some slight issues with a heavier oil in them here

Nah sorry mate, i think you miss understood what i was saying. I had a skyline r33 low 100k km's just my reccomendations for his.

And also nissan i believe they reccomend 7.5w/30 in the 350z its a semi synthic i think... pretty much watery as.. its not too shabby so i dnt use it.

Also what problems have you seen lol? I've head some burn oil, maybe that super light thin oil justs run pasts the rings lol?

Edited by Mr_GaZZa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4510581
Share on other sites
syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha i always seem to create threads that turn into debates :sick:

I think i'll try to Motul 300v chrono oil and see how it goes.

I put in 4.5 litres of oil when i last changed it, so it wasn't full but it was close to it.

I was thinking, as the oil passes through the turbo, maybe it is burning oil? My brother told me he saw a little bit of blue smoke but that was a few weeks ago and he recommended changing the oil to a diff viscosity and it shouldnt burn any....

Anywho, thank you all for your input, i will try a different oil and let you know how it goes!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4511522
Share on other sites
br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted
and WOHOoO 30/50, thats like tank oil? you must have high crank pressure 24/7 haha, and then again i wouldnt use the THIN LIGHT oil,

engines pretty worn in at that km's and remember the engine oil goes throught the turbo.. so if you dont want to see blue smoke get something mid range

30/50 oil?

If u look again closely, i was saying thats the hot weight a skyline street driver should be looking out

0-15 is the cold weight that a skyline street driver should look at.

i did not mean the cold weight being 30 and the hot weight bbeing 50 :S not even a commodore should be running that!

So far ive been using mobil 1 and ive blown no blue smoke and it doesnt seem to use a drop of oil.

Ive also heard good things about motul 300v chrono.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4512560
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...