Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put your stock exhaust back on, install a shitty cat converter (So a non high flow one) and put in a resinator just before the rear muffler.

Test it and see how you go.

That should shut the F**king EPA up.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

he did test it in the open, it was outside in the carpark area at 9.30 am very little traffic, and he did it like 3 or 4 times.

in reference to ur quiet/sport mode question my 34 has a swith under the dash from factory to make the exhast go louder or quieter by directing the exhaust gas into either side of the muffler (one is fatter and one is skinner)

lilydale is a big drive for me but it might be worth it i guess because my car is not really loud at all

That sounds like a Varex muffler or something, never seen that stock on a 34 GTT. also, why the hell did they make you rev it to 5000rpm? when mine got tested it was to 4000-4500rpm from memory

Edited by Weapon
yes they can its happened to me twice now, once for my supra na and now the 34, the supra however was f**king loud lol. na with extractors and a straight 3 inch pipi no cat and 4 inch muffler

na supras are the lodest things around with even a small exhaust..... friend at work has it with just a 3.5 cat back and it is atleast 3 times as loud as my turbo back 3-3.5inch....

i recon it also has to do with the type of metal used..... my fujitsubo exhaust is actually very quite compared to similar exhaust made of different material....

na supras are the lodest things around with even a small exhaust..... friend at work has it with just a 3.5 cat back and it is atleast 3 times as loud as my turbo back 3-3.5inch....

i recon it also has to do with the type of metal used..... my fujitsubo exhaust is actually very quite compared to similar exhaust made of different material....

All NA cars are loud because the turbo stops the exhaust resonating.

Put your stock exhaust back on, install a shitty cat converter (So a non high flow one) and put in a resinator just before the rear muffler.

Test it and see how you go.

That should shut the F**king EPA up.

it is the stock exhaust dude. it has the cat in it from compliance.

i have a resonator and a muffler in my boot which i will be hopefully putting on tonight and then testing again in the morning,

How far away from the exhaust tip did he have the microphone?

From your description he had it right at the exhaust tip...

i reckon it was about 50-70cm away and he had it a little bit of angle as well, he had this triangle shaped ruler to measure it (the distance)

Isnt it the Nismo exhaust option that was factory on some R34 GTT that has the switch to swap between the 2 mufflers?

well mine has a swith on it just under the steering wheel is says sport and quiet ( i think) i honestly cant tell the difference between the 2 setting until high revs really. i left it in quiet mode for the test obviously.

it is the stock exhaust dude. it has the cat in it from compliance.

i have a resonator and a muffler in my boot which i will be hopefully putting on tonight and then testing again in the morning,

Cool!

Get the resonator and the muffler put on and see how you go...

You will probley find that the exhaust will be very restrictive, so don't hammer it too hard.

Untill you goto the EPA and let them rev it, pass the test then free it up again.

I'm sure someone's posted the link to this file before but no harm doing it again. Heres the file for the ADR standard used for testing exhaust to 90dB.

ADR_28.01_FRLI_Mar_06.pdf

Maybe I should bring my car to have it tested by someone to see whats the dB level. I really have no idea how does 85dB and 95dB sound like on a car. How much does it cost to get it tested by someone anyone knows? Or getting those dB meter on ebay (50bucks cheapass) will do the trick? I'm probably hijacking the thread but does anyone know if the Trust Ti-R come with a baffle? Mine seems to be straight thru and someone told me before Ti-R arent that loud to begin with. Heres the spec provided by Trust.

post-42920-1238546909_thumb.png

From the looks of it it should be on the 94dB level but my friend who's heard it told me it'll probably be 98 or even higher (I'm thinking its the baffle that was removed). And also does being an N1 affect the noise...?

Let me know what you've done as I'm really looking for alternatives to current exhaust or modifying it to a decent dB level (90-92 if not below 90). Cheers!

I'm sure someone's posted the link to this file before but no harm doing it again. Heres the file for the ADR standard used for testing exhaust to 90dB.

ADR_28.01_FRLI_Mar_06.pdf

Maybe I should bring my car to have it tested by someone to see whats the dB level. I really have no idea how does 85dB and 95dB sound like on a car. How much does it cost to get it tested by someone anyone knows? Or getting those dB meter on ebay (50bucks cheapass) will do the trick? I'm probably hijacking the thread but does anyone know if the Trust Ti-R come with a baffle? Mine seems to be straight thru and someone told me before Ti-R arent that loud to begin with. Heres the spec provided by Trust.

post-42920-1238546909_thumb.png

From the looks of it it should be on the 94dB level but my friend who's heard it told me it'll probably be 98 or even higher (I'm thinking its the baffle that was removed). And also does being an N1 affect the noise...?

Let me know what you've done as I'm really looking for alternatives to current exhaust or modifying it to a decent dB level (90-92 if not below 90). Cheers!

the test was $35.00

dont weld anything into your system. you know that security screen shit that some backdoors ect. have, its metal with lots of little holes in it, get some of that or something similar, cut it out in the shape of a gasket and stick it somewhere in your system, and dont thrash your car when your restricting the exhaust system also. i was speaking to the owner of an exhaust shop and he told me this is how all the big v8s get over the pits.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...