Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok im getting my exhassut done next week after my coilovers go in this week and i get a wheel allignment, i have my own personal oppinion that you really only need around 2 inches of vaccum(back pressure) not as much as some people think, backpressure what for you need more on a carby engine to draw through the fuel but on an injected motor its being forced through via injectors and your afm measures how much air velocity is going through and it tells the injectors anyways.im getting from extractors back 2.5" mandrel bent im waiting on my high flow cat (2.5") but was jsut wondering i was thinking of going 2.5" inlet muffler with twin outlets and have the pipes on an angle coming out the rear because i thought my exhassut with jsut a cannon will be extremly loud?, my car probably only makes around 80kw atm all my mufflers are collapsed and who ever did my cannon oh god it goes from standard size to smaller. so it can breathe it goes good up high and thats about it, jut wondering from any of youse who might have had previous experince and who to talk to about a muffler or if i can find a twin outlet decent one not an ebay special, i know that all cannons do make it look pretty and the echo from them im getting sick of, i have read abit, but its always he said she said how the thread mainly starts,

extractors back 2.5" mandrel bent high flow 2.5" cataylitic convertor single 2.5" inlet muffler twin outlet to rear

thanks in advance

Edited by LUME
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263521-organising-my-exhasut-for-next-week/
Share on other sites

dont get a cannon...they dont look pretty either. get a nice simple twin tip setup.

mine consists of a 2.5" catback with two mufflers, one dual chamber one in the center and the rear one is a straight through leading to twin tips. i had it running on just the rear muffler with a resonator in there for about 3 days and i took it back cos it sounded awesome from the outside but the DRONE in the cabin was awful. it ended up sounding pretty neat, cost me $550 all up (mind you i didnt supply any of the stuff myself, was a scratchbuild)

a highflow cat will help too. which is on my shopping list :D

heres a pic of mine

post-45120-1238805323_thumb.jpg

well i went in there yesterday and he goes either 280 or 400 depends so i told him to shove it went down the road cat back with one muffler and a twin outlet tip 340

imo youl need another muffler, cos as i said the drone was unbearable, and youl prolly more likely to get EPA'd. otherthing is too it sounds just like a VL commodore with just the one muffler...quite gay.

im kinda regretting getting the second one put one cos since then iv gone turbo and could prolly afford to delete a muffler (turbo hushes things down quite a bit)

well im pretty pissed atm got my coilovers in went for a drive today turning a corner car slid on a loose surface tried to power out but i was already a passenger at that time wasnt trying to slide or anything hit a speed sign and rooted my guard ill post piks later, nothing rubs looks like crap now, and im going on a trip next weekend so exhausut is out of the question until after easter i would cop it if i was sliding or attempting to but i wasnt understeered snapped oversteered, so im trying to track down a front drivers side gunmetal grey guard

duno spring rates are 8 on the front and 6 on the rear came all setup and all good checked all the heights and everything ive got diamond back tyres and they get bad sidewall flex like didnt even try to slide hit sum bumps loose gravel car slide couldnt power out should have jsut hit the skids i would have looped it but not hit it oh well i know to be more cautious now so i think ill do the exhassut properly now once i get a new guard extractors and get it all done properly

yes i know i know dont need more ppl rubbing it in lol therye crap i know it ill get some more when i buy new wheels, well heres the damage new guard this week so its all good

post-55906-1238852220_thumb.jpg

lol its jsut cosmetic damage drives fine wheels not bent, jsut need some time to get used to the new setup becauase i tried to correct like i would if i had body roll and unresponsive steering lol, tht was before i polished it too lol very minor paint work came off weirdly i would have liked it better if i ripped by bar to bits just drill and zippy tie it for the time being

Edited by LUME

Hey,

sounds like a nice set up. i have same but with a resinator. dont no y the guy put it in, its comin out after the pink slip.

mine was 750 includin fitment of extractors, cat, and cat back system. i have a single tip on my hi flow muffler, it looks awesome in my opinion.

post-60782-1238914450_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...