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Heya,

My little bro is looking at a Mazda Rx7 1985 Turbo model. He asked me what there like or if i know of anyone that has owned one etc.

To be honest i dont know much about them.

Anyone owned on? Or know what there like?

The one he's looking at has an updated 2.oL engine only done around 60,000 kms

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um i say dont buy if they saying it has a updated 2.0ltr engine.

considering they come with a 1.3ltr (13b) rotary engine, if it did have a 2.9ltr (20b) conversion it would cost big coin

the engine would be old most rota's of that age will need a rebuild as the apex seals in rotoa's are usually replaced at 100K depending on use,

ive had a couple rotarys but im off to work ill come back with more info later

Heya,

My little bro is looking at a Mazda Rx7 1985 Turbo model. He asked me what there like or if i know of anyone that has owned one etc.

To be honest i dont know much about them.

Anyone owned on? Or know what there like?

The one he's looking at has an updated 2.oL engine only done around 60,000 kms

Updated 2L engine? Making it a 20B rotary? Don't think so. Early RXs were 12A with the RX7 series getting the 13B (1.3 litre rotary)

I know their engine life is short. Most are thrashed and due for expensive rebuild. Think 2 stroke, and you get the idea of high maintenance costs.

Def buyer beware. Tell lil bro to join a rotary website and do some homework before handing over the folding stuff.

id confirm the kays of both the engine and chassis. the dash cluster bolts are surrounded with black foam when its installed, so check that to confirm that the chassis k's are accurate. (foam has to be removed to properly remove the cluster).

ask for receipts for the engine, and try to confirm mileage again, 20B into any rx isnt a huge job, but it isnt particularly regency friendly, look to see if the brakes and suspension have been upgraded to suit the weight and additional power of the 20B. (remember, a 20B is more than 50% heavier than the original 13B). if the engine is getting close to 100,000km, prepare for a rebuild (approx $5-7k). oil consumption and rotors go hand in hand, so dont worry too much, but as usual, if its blowing oil smoke, avoid it. also never use semi/full synthetic oil in it, only use mineral oils and mazda rotory oil.

pivot balls in the s5 boxes tend to be the weak point when youre using a heavy duty clutch (which you would be with a 20B-TT conversion), but replace those with a billet item and the box will last forever.

also keep in mind that a rotor will never pass an emissions test.

and if he does pick it up, tell him to be very particular with his startup and warm down procedures, start it up, let it idle in the drive way for a minute, and when driving, dont rev it any higher than 2,000rpm until youre up to operating temps, when youre finished driving, let it idle for a minute or 2 or 5 depending how hard youve been driving before shutting it down.

try not to drive it short distances, always allow it to get up to operating temps before shutting it down, starting it and shutting it down in small time frame and you run the risk of flooding the engine which can be a huge pain in the ass to clear.

also, take it to a reputable rotary workshop before purchase (eg, REVS or Mildrens) and have them look over the car with a fine tooth comb and throw it on the dyno.

happy motoring.

Edited by scandyflick
cheers guys

all the write up says is new imported turbo engine thats only done 60,000 kms. 2 cylinder Petrol Rotary 2.0L (2000cc)

heh, the advertisement is a little wrong then. twin rotors are 1.3L, triples are 2.0L.

Hmmm might tell him to steer clear.....

its just hes trying to find a turbo car around the $7,000 mark....

and he doesnt like silvias... lol

He's a smart man! S13 silvia's would have to be up there with the ugliest cars ever made!!! :P

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