Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey my mrs a/c in her car hasnt been working lately thought it was the gas so i got the guy to come regas it. Gas filled up but a/c still doesnt work, the compressor kicks in but it does not go cold!!! so he put a wire from the battery to a little thing near the compressor and the air con went cold.. he said its the a/c unit inside the car it might be faulty so i changed the climate control unit with another working one and it still doesnt work!!!

BUT sometimes it decides it wants to work and it gets really cold, and sometimes it just not very cold but its cold, and sometimes it just dont feel like goin cold what so ever!! So anyone have any ideas of what this could be ?!!?!??!!?????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263618-help-with-my-mrs-ac/
Share on other sites

Hey my mrs a/c in her car hasnt been working lately thought it was the gas so i got the guy to come regas it. Gas filled up but a/c still doesnt work, the compressor kicks in but it does not go cold!!! so he put a wire from the battery to a little thing near the compressor and the air con went cold.. he said its the a/c unit inside the car it might be faulty so i changed the climate control unit with another working one and it still doesnt work!!!

BUT sometimes it decides it wants to work and it gets really cold, and sometimes it just not very cold but its cold, and sometimes it just dont feel like goin cold what so ever!! So anyone have any ideas of what this could be ?!!?!??!!?????

Yep its a common problem with R32's

The problem is actually inside the Hot/Cold mix door actuator (aka the motor and control unit that decides how much hot/cold air to let in).

You'll find this module over the gearbox but up against the firewall between the two leg areas in the front area...

There is a guide here somewhere which tells you what to do, but its a 5 minute soldering job (to fix the dry joints)

Problem is, it takes a fair while to get to the unit - perhaps a professional can do it fast but it took me a couple of hours to get to it...

-D

on a related subject, my work car (BF Falcon) is just out of new car warranty and occasionally over last weekend would blow a mist thru the vents......don't know if it's smoke, vapour or what the heck??!

partial leak in the heater core or an leak in the ventilation hosing leading to some precipitation inside the pipe - I would guess at a long long long shot

-D

One thing I learnt from older cars was to leave them in vent(outside circulation) when not in use or turned off so the condesation can evaporate. If we leave them on internal circulation , the vents are closed and this can result in rusting out of the aircon/heater boxs.

common problem in the 32's =[

Yeah... and I spent 6 months trying to figure out WTF was wrong till steve posted me that link up above with the DIY howto...

Once I had the unit out, the dry joints were very visible.. got a mate to solder them for me, took him all of 5 minutes...

Well worth doing when the heat of summer hits (last summer I had to use open-window aircon which SUCKED) but now its all done, I'm very happy to have AC back - you don't realize how much u love it till its gone

Sure, it might take you half a day but if it saves you several hundred dollars, give it a shot!

-D

People use air cons in 32's?

Mine ran like a dogs ball when I put the air con on!

depends on how much power the engine has. yeah there is a power loss when the compressor engages but if you have 220kw then you're not likely to notice it much...

other trick is to use 'econ' instead of 'a/c' to cool the car. it just sets the compressor temperature a tad higher (2 degrees I think) and that keeps the compressor from activating as much

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...