Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just bought a GTS25t and I am having a few problems. Firstly when I turn the key to ACC, there is a clicking noise that is coming from the heater vents (I think). The noise last for 12 seconds and goes away. This only happens at the start when I turn my car on acc. Secondly, I have a fluctuating idle problem. On a cold day, when I start the car, it will go around 900rpm then fluctuate then stall. If I tap the accelerator, the revs will climb up to 1500 rpm and fluctuate but not stall. When the car is warm, the idle will fluctuate between 900-700rpm and sometimes it will run good.

I've already tried cleaning the AAC for the idle problem and it helped the idle a bit but this problem still persist.... I am cleaning the AFM tomorrow and I noticed that my air filter was DIRTY as f**k.

Anyone know how to fix these problems?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263796-r33-gts25t-problems/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

I just bought a GTS25t and I am having a few problems. Firstly when I turn the key to ACC, there is a clicking noise that is coming from the heater vents (I think). The noise last for 12 seconds and goes away. This only happens at the start when I turn my car on acc. Secondly, I have a fluctuating idle problem. On a cold day, when I start the car, it will go around 900rpm then fluctuate then stall. If I tap the accelerator, the revs will climb up to 1500 rpm and fluctuate but not stall. When the car is warm, the idle will fluctuate between 900-700rpm and sometimes it will run good.

I've already tried cleaning the AAC for the idle problem and it helped the idle a bit but this problem still persist.... I am cleaning the AFM tomorrow and I noticed that my air filter was DIRTY as f**k.

Anyone know how to fix these problems?

i dont think the air filter is soley the problem..... try running it withought the air filter.....if it improves then you got your answer....

but i think its more than that.

check all vaccume hoses as well whilst your at it.

let me explain this....... if your car is stalling whilst COLD.....immediately after starting..

This kind of problem often means the engine is not getting enough fuel or too much air.

A cold engine needs a faily rich mixture. and idles smoothly once it warms up. this is why there is an automatic Choke on your car (when your revs drop, the choke is down).

the causes can be either....engine vaccume leak..broken hoses, leaks around the intake manifold or gaskes..leaks around the EGV and PCV valves.

a dirty or defective air flow sensor can upset the air/fuel mixture..... causing all sorts of stalling and idling problems.... you can clean this out with special spray for exlectronics circuit. by cleaning with this aerosol can, can cure the problem withought replacing.

also the Throttle body has a throttle position sensor.... you need to take the throttle body off and clean it with carby cleaner.

(sometimes the sensor/solenoid needs replacing if its faulty......you will know this if the carby cleaner doesnt help)

The map sensor monitors the Air/vaccume flow.... this could be a problem as well.....there are ways to test this.....but this is a bit technical.

The temperature sensors can cause the car to run too rich or too lean....

there are 2 sensors that could come into play for this...... 1.) the Coolant sensor & the air temperature sensor...

the worst case scenario for this idling problem is the worn pistons or piston rings......

but from what your telling me.....it doesnt sound likely.

check your spark plugs as well whilst you have your throttle body and plenum chamber/manifold off....make sure they are not fouled...

let us know how you go.....this should give you an idea

maybe atmospoheric blow off valve?

blow off valve?! he just told you its COLD STARTING ISSUES>......which means the fuel mixture is WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dude, you shouldnt give advice if your not sure...

inaccurate advice can cause people... time, money & frustration....

Hey guys,

I just bought a GTS25t and I am having a few problems. Firstly when I turn the key to ACC, there is a clicking noise that is coming from the heater vents (I think). The noise last for 12 seconds and goes away. This only happens at the start when I turn my car on acc.

wow, my R33 does *exactly* the same thing. I have NFI what it is though....

blow off valve?! he just told you its COLD STARTING ISSUES>......which means the fuel mixture is WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dude, you shouldnt give advice if your not sure...

inaccurate advice can cause people... time, money & frustration....

When the car is warm, sometimes the idle is fine but sometimes it fluctuates between 900-700rpm... Very annoying at intersections...

Will change the air filter cause it's dirty as f**k and clean AFM today.

inaccurate advice can cause people... time, money & frustration....

That's for sure. Poor bugger is going nuts looking for his air temp probe and wondering what the MAP sensor has to do with anything, apart from the boost gauge in the dash.

He's cleaned the obvious AAC valve and finding the air reg is a bit of a mission. He's got fluctuating idle at intersections so I'd guess it's warmed up by then yet he still has the problem.

Certainly check all your vacuum hoses but don't go pulling the plenum apart or throttle body and TPS off, find a competent workshop. It will save you $$$

wow, my R33 does *exactly* the same thing. I have NFI what it is though....

I'm not even kidding, sitting here thinking EXACTLY the same thing.

Somebody told me that having an aftermarket ecu was going to be the problem with the idle spin, and coincidentally a friend's brother has just advised me to install an A'PEXi Power FC, which I'll probably do this week. Does this sound like it'll fix my problem?

'Twas pretty embarassing pulling into the carpark for the cruise last night and having my car choose that specific point at which this would happen regularly :wacko:

<br />Hey guys,<br /><br />I just bought a GTS25t and I am having a few problems. Firstly when I turn the key to ACC, there is a clicking noise that is coming from the heater vents (I think). The noise last for 12 seconds and goes away. This only happens at the start when I turn my car on acc. Secondly, I have a fluctuating idle problem. On a cold day, when I start the car, it will go around 900rpm then fluctuate then stall. If I tap the accelerator, the revs will climb up to 1500 rpm and fluctuate but not stall. When the car is warm, the idle will fluctuate between 900-700rpm and sometimes it will run good. <br /><br />I've already tried cleaning the AAC for the idle problem and it helped the idle a bit but this problem still persist.... I am cleaning the AFM tomorrow and I noticed that my air filter was DIRTY as f**k.<br /><br />Anyone know how to fix these problems?<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Farrk I get that clicky noise as well when I turn my car on to ACC, dunno wat it is though. My idle's been screwed too, I replaced the IAC valve and the tps and repositioned the tps, idles alright now, but plays up every now and then. Im cleaning ou my AfM tomorro, so hopefully that solves everything. Good luck with yours.

  • 3 months later...

i had a clicky noise too when i turn the car to ACC, wasnt so much in the dash, but sounded like it was in the roof......

didnt take me too long to figure out it was the electric aerial going up.....LOL :D

i felt real stupid after noticeing as it was starting to worry me.

i have an excuse though, no car ive ever owned before has had any electrical wizardry in it, a stereo was as much as ive ever had.

  • 1 year later...

i got the same clicky noise, and mines definately comin fron the centre heater vents, i aint got no ide what it is, everythins workin so i dont try fix it "touch wood" lol

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/301992-diy-fix-cluncking-noise-in-dash-r33s/page__hl__clicking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...