Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts25t Problems

AzN
 Share

Recommended Posts

AzN Collaborator

AzN

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I just bought a GTS25t and I am having a few problems. Firstly when I turn the key to ACC, there is a clicking noise that is coming from the heater vents (I think). The noise last for 12 seconds and goes away. This only happens at the start when I turn my car on acc. Secondly, I have a fluctuating idle problem. On a cold day, when I start the car, it will go around 900rpm then fluctuate then stall. If I tap the accelerator, the revs will climb up to 1500 rpm and fluctuate but not stall. When the car is warm, the idle will fluctuate between 900-700rpm and sometimes it will run good.

I've already tried cleaning the AAC for the idle problem and it helped the idle a bit but this problem still persist.... I am cleaning the AFM tomorrow and I noticed that my air filter was DIRTY as f**k.

Anyone know how to fix these problems?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263796-r33-gts25t-problems/
Share on other sites
eeiko321 Experienced

eeiko321

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

I just bought a GTS25t and I am having a few problems. Firstly when I turn the key to ACC, there is a clicking noise that is coming from the heater vents (I think). The noise last for 12 seconds and goes away. This only happens at the start when I turn my car on acc. Secondly, I have a fluctuating idle problem. On a cold day, when I start the car, it will go around 900rpm then fluctuate then stall. If I tap the accelerator, the revs will climb up to 1500 rpm and fluctuate but not stall. When the car is warm, the idle will fluctuate between 900-700rpm and sometimes it will run good.

I've already tried cleaning the AAC for the idle problem and it helped the idle a bit but this problem still persist.... I am cleaning the AFM tomorrow and I noticed that my air filter was DIRTY as f**k.

Anyone know how to fix these problems?

i dont think the air filter is soley the problem..... try running it withought the air filter.....if it improves then you got your answer....

but i think its more than that.

check all vaccume hoses as well whilst your at it.

let me explain this....... if your car is stalling whilst COLD.....immediately after starting..

This kind of problem often means the engine is not getting enough fuel or too much air.

A cold engine needs a faily rich mixture. and idles smoothly once it warms up. this is why there is an automatic Choke on your car (when your revs drop, the choke is down).

the causes can be either....engine vaccume leak..broken hoses, leaks around the intake manifold or gaskes..leaks around the EGV and PCV valves.

a dirty or defective air flow sensor can upset the air/fuel mixture..... causing all sorts of stalling and idling problems.... you can clean this out with special spray for exlectronics circuit. by cleaning with this aerosol can, can cure the problem withought replacing.

also the Throttle body has a throttle position sensor.... you need to take the throttle body off and clean it with carby cleaner.

(sometimes the sensor/solenoid needs replacing if its faulty......you will know this if the carby cleaner doesnt help)

The map sensor monitors the Air/vaccume flow.... this could be a problem as well.....there are ways to test this.....but this is a bit technical.

The temperature sensors can cause the car to run too rich or too lean....

there are 2 sensors that could come into play for this...... 1.) the Coolant sensor & the air temperature sensor...

the worst case scenario for this idling problem is the worn pistons or piston rings......

but from what your telling me.....it doesnt sound likely.

check your spark plugs as well whilst you have your throttle body and plenum chamber/manifold off....make sure they are not fouled...

let us know how you go.....this should give you an idea

eeiko321 Experienced

eeiko321

Posted
Posted
maybe atmospoheric blow off valve?

blow off valve?! he just told you its COLD STARTING ISSUES>......which means the fuel mixture is WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dude, you shouldnt give advice if your not sure...

inaccurate advice can cause people... time, money & frustration....

dnbosiris Enthusiast

dnbosiris

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

I just bought a GTS25t and I am having a few problems. Firstly when I turn the key to ACC, there is a clicking noise that is coming from the heater vents (I think). The noise last for 12 seconds and goes away. This only happens at the start when I turn my car on acc.

wow, my R33 does *exactly* the same thing. I have NFI what it is though....

AzN Collaborator

AzN

Posted
  • Author
Posted
blow off valve?! he just told you its COLD STARTING ISSUES>......which means the fuel mixture is WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dude, you shouldnt give advice if your not sure...

inaccurate advice can cause people... time, money & frustration....

When the car is warm, sometimes the idle is fine but sometimes it fluctuates between 900-700rpm... Very annoying at intersections...

Will change the air filter cause it's dirty as f**k and clean AFM today.

grigor Rising Star

grigor

Posted
Posted
inaccurate advice can cause people... time, money & frustration....

That's for sure. Poor bugger is going nuts looking for his air temp probe and wondering what the MAP sensor has to do with anything, apart from the boost gauge in the dash.

He's cleaned the obvious AAC valve and finding the air reg is a bit of a mission. He's got fluctuating idle at intersections so I'd guess it's warmed up by then yet he still has the problem.

Certainly check all your vacuum hoses but don't go pulling the plenum apart or throttle body and TPS off, find a competent workshop. It will save you $$$

That_timothy Community Regular

That_timothy

Posted
Posted
wow, my R33 does *exactly* the same thing. I have NFI what it is though....

I'm not even kidding, sitting here thinking EXACTLY the same thing.

Somebody told me that having an aftermarket ecu was going to be the problem with the idle spin, and coincidentally a friend's brother has just advised me to install an A'PEXi Power FC, which I'll probably do this week. Does this sound like it'll fix my problem?

'Twas pretty embarassing pulling into the carpark for the cruise last night and having my car choose that specific point at which this would happen regularly :wacko:

Benzino33 Experienced

Benzino33

Posted
Posted
<br />Hey guys,<br /><br />I just bought a GTS25t and I am having a few problems. Firstly when I turn the key to ACC, there is a clicking noise that is coming from the heater vents (I think). The noise last for 12 seconds and goes away. This only happens at the start when I turn my car on acc. Secondly, I have a fluctuating idle problem. On a cold day, when I start the car, it will go around 900rpm then fluctuate then stall. If I tap the accelerator, the revs will climb up to 1500 rpm and fluctuate but not stall. When the car is warm, the idle will fluctuate between 900-700rpm and sometimes it will run good. <br /><br />I've already tried cleaning the AAC for the idle problem and it helped the idle a bit but this problem still persist.... I am cleaning the AFM tomorrow and I noticed that my air filter was DIRTY as f**k.<br /><br />Anyone know how to fix these problems?<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Farrk I get that clicky noise as well when I turn my car on to ACC, dunno wat it is though. My idle's been screwed too, I replaced the IAC valve and the tps and repositioned the tps, idles alright now, but plays up every now and then. Im cleaning ou my AfM tomorro, so hopefully that solves everything. Good luck with yours.

  • 3 months later...
boiracer Grand Master

boiracer

Posted
Posted

i had a clicky noise too when i turn the car to ACC, wasnt so much in the dash, but sounded like it was in the roof......

didnt take me too long to figure out it was the electric aerial going up.....LOL :D

i felt real stupid after noticeing as it was starting to worry me.

i have an excuse though, no car ive ever owned before has had any electrical wizardry in it, a stereo was as much as ive ever had.

  • 1 year later...
t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted

i got the same clicky noise, and mines definately comin fron the centre heater vents, i aint got no ide what it is, everythins workin so i dont try fix it "touch wood" lol

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/301992-diy-fix-cluncking-noise-in-dash-r33s/page__hl__clicking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • GTSBoy
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • Matvei27
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By Matvei27 · Posted

      I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • MBS206
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...