Question For All The Engine Builders

[zebra]

Hey guys,

Im about to start bolting the head up to my rb25.

So my questions are:

Whats the best thread lock to use for the head bolts? Three Bond, locktight etc?

and also are there any tricks you guys do to the bores? Its not a fresh engine so there is the possibility of some old gasket scrapings in the bore.

I was thinking of using a vacume cleaner to try and suck out any crap (I dont have an Aircompressor to use to blow out the crap)

then run an oily rag rounds the bores to make sure there clean.

Ill also make sure there is no bits of gasket in the oil and water galleries.

Also whats the best method of blocking the centre oil feed in the block, as per SKs Oil control thread.

Using a factory new Nissan head gasket should I use sealer on it or just leave it?

Sorry for all the questions. But I dont wanna get this engine in the car only to find it leaks or the head gasket doesnt seal properly.

Thanks

Andrew

[2LV8ETR]

Greets man.

I don't want to sound like an ass here, but are you following any type of guidelines for this job?

You're asking questions that are causing the hairs on the back of my neck to stand up.

Use no threadlock. Head bolts are TTY single use items that require a 5 step process to yield. Using theadlock may provide a false torque reading and may also cause the bolts to eventually seize. If done correctly, they will not back out. I hope you're not re-using the old ones!

As long as all abrasive material is removed from the bores, you'll be okay, but hoping to rid of all of it with a vacuum cleaner is a bit optimistic.

Don't use sealer on the head gasket!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[zebra]

As far as I know. There are plenty of engines that use can re-use the factory head bolt. RBs being one of them I've been told. The only ones I can think of that need replacing are 4L falcons and Older OHV V8s

They are also a two step process not 5 on these motors.

Whats I was really asking was are there any tricks of the trade some people may know to make life easier for myself, so as im not back on here a week after the engine goes back in the car asking why my head gasket didnt seal or what ever issues may arise.

I also dont mean to sound like an ass. But differnt motors have diffent ways of being put together and Im trying to find the right way to do things for the Nissan Donk beacuse after two days of searching the internet for info about it there are about 1500 different answers, and the only motors I''ve really played with are Ford And GM V8s

[rodger1]

As far as I know. There are plenty of engines that use can re-use the factory head bolt. RBs being one of them I've been told. The only ones I can think of that need replacing are 4L falcons and Older OHV V8s

They are also a two step process not 5 on these motors.

Whats I was really asking was are there any tricks of the trade some people may know to make life easier for myself, so as im not back on here a week after the engine goes back in the car asking why my head gasket didnt seal or what ever issues may arise.

I also dont mean to sound like an ass. But differnt motors have diffent ways of being put together and Im trying to find the right way to do things for the Nissan Donk beacuse after two days of searching the internet for info about it there are about 1500 different answers, and the only motors I''ve really played with are Ford And GM V8s

and as you would know holden v8's and fords use no thread locker on gasket sealer on the head gaskets also all holden engines in production today the head bolts are single use and use no aftermarket applyable thread locker the only engine that does use some type is the gen3 but again single use bolts.

rb30 head bolts are single use as well if you don't believe me read the workshop manual. but if your after "tricks of the trade" what have you measured? have you checked that the block and head are flat as they will 99% of the time be why head gaskets leak. you use a straight edge and feeler gauges and the next thing if the manual says single use we replace them it's as simple as that

[Swiper the Fox]

use moly lube on the bolts.

ive reused stock bolts on my own engines before...no problem.

dont block the oil feed.

[murrayis]

The cylinder head tightening sequence is a five step process. The bolts are tightened from the center outwards.

1. Tighten to 22 ft/lb

2. Tighten to 80 ft/lb

3. Loosen bolts completely to 0 ft/lbs

4. Tighten bolts to 22 ft/lbs

5. Turn bolts 85-90 degrees clockwise with an angle wrench, or tighten to 76-83 ft/lbs when torque wrench is used.

This is what I have used and my engine builder told me to use when I put the head back on my engine.

Disclaimer: Use only as a guide I am not responsible if anything breaks or damage caused

[zebra]

Thanks for the responses guys.

Ill be the following the Nissan Service manual in regards to the head bolt torqueing.

Any reason for not blocking the oil feed Paul?

[Swiper the Fox]

Thanks for the responses guys.

Ill be the following the Nissan Service manual in regards to the head bolt torqueing.

Any reason for not blocking the oil feed Paul?

You are using hydraulic lifters...this feed is supplying them oil...starving your lifters of oil supply is unwise...i never have blocked them off and also never had RB25 oil control problems.

Edited April 2, 2009 by DiRTgarage

[zebra]

Cool,

That Makes that part easy then

Thanks Mate

[Swiper the Fox]

Cool,

That Makes that part easy then

Thanks Mate

the only time i would look at modifying these feeds is using the same size restrictor in both of them. This only would be considered in a big hp RB25 using an aftermarket oil pump. In NYTSKY's fairly tough 25 i left them as per factory.

[zebra]

im just using a newish stock RB25 pump, You ran an oil drain off the back of the head in NYTSKYs car yes?

Thats on my to do list while the motor is out as the car will see the odd track day.

[Swiper the Fox]

im just using a newish stock RB25 pump, You ran an oil drain off the back of the head in NYTSKYs car yes?

Thats on my to do list while the motor is out as the car will see the odd track day.

i did install it at his request....really not required.

[zebra]

lol your saving me more and more money post by post Paul.

Thanks

[zebra]

I was also think of running a large catch tank with a return to the sump Teed into the front oil drain from the head....just incase definatley simpler and cheaper than tapping into the back of the head

[2LV8ETR]

ive reused stock bolts on my own engines before...no problem.

Have a look here - Click me

Have a read of post 5.

Head bolts can be reused again but they have been stretched and lose some of their "elasticity". For the minor expense of replacing them, why take the risk?????

[zebra]

Cheers Mate, Ill look into getting some new ones if they arnt that expensive.

Edit: Does anyone have have the part number for the head bolts? there the same as CA18 yes?

Edited April 2, 2009 by zebra

[T04GTR]

use moly lube, torque to 100nm..

block the oil feed if you want, but i wouldnt. being hydrolic lifters..

vacume cleener for the bores. turn over the engine to get the pistons up and get the rest out.

[DRIFTER]

i have a snap-on digital torque wrench that does degrees as well. when you do the fifth step to 85-90degrees my torque wrench tells you what torque it took to get there. it normally gets to 100nm. that would indicate that the bolts should be thrown out after the second step because you just stretched them.