Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Make Sure Tuner Has Put On The Turbo's He Said He Has.


unix
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I just got the call today that my GTR is ready with new garrett 2860r-5's, On the phone he said i gained a bit of midrange power than the previous setup i used to have trust t517z's. Its making the same peak power as before but im just a bit spectical for some reason after that that he has used -7's i figured that i would have no gain in midrange and a better topend. I havent asked him what the top end is like he know's that i like a bigger kick rather than response so i figure if it is making more midrange that the top end will drop off. I know that with -5's the Topend should Definitely should be there and start to pull from higher in the rev range and not lower and die off. Any ideas? i havent asked him when its making full boost yet and if it does pull hard to redline. Thanks for some advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on what spec the 517's were in.

You've really provided no info dude... what power it has made, dyno sheet with boost plot etc etc.

Only way to check it the turbo ID tag, good luck getting a look without taking half the car apart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha yeh thats what im afraid of mate. Thats why im hoping he doesnt screw me knowing that you know. I have aftermarket induction piping so i can get all that off Pretty easy i didnt think the garrett's came with anything on the ID?. The t517z's where the 8cm Version brand new.

I know that the -5's arnt that good for a standard rb26 my internal's are standard i decided on the -5's because im planning on doing a rebuild later on and using them for what there capable of alot more boost. Right now i think its running 19psi so they should have alot more in them yeh? i will ask the tuner on 19psi they shouldnt run out of puff at 75000rph yeh? im not saying they are i havent seen the dyno sheet yet im picking the car up this afternoon. I guess if it comes on boost early and has a gradual power increase that doesnt hold till redline there not -5's. I have cam's just about ever bolt on mod accept internal's. Just makes me really wonder about gaining in the midrange you know i just dont think it should gain in the midrange if i have big turbos that should have a bit of lag. BTW it made about 400hp on 18psi like the t517z's did at 18psi.?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What - why did you change from T517Zs to GT2860-5s? I was always pretty sure the T517Zs are a slightly larger turbo than the GT2860-5s/GT2530s? Also if you are maxing neither out you're not too likely to see gains, need more info on your setup but I am getting the feeling you just did a side step if not a downgrade in flow potentially and wondering why you didn't get more power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wouldnt it have been easier to get them rebuilt rather than buying 2 new turbos of poorer quality????

Nothing with Garretts especially -5's

I got 408kW ATW on 95

Edited by Waza_GTR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also i dont think the -5's are the same as 2530's thats the -7's

*shakes head*

I think you really need to get your turbo part #'s, and specs correct before you go saying you think you dont have what you paid for.

-5's are similar to a HKS 2530

-7's/-9's are similar to HKS GT-SS/R34 N1

There is enough info on the forum stating the above im not sure how its even something that you could get wrong.

Even Garretts website will tell you the HP rating for each.

If the reciept has the part# of -5's on it, then thats what you have. Have you even checked it yet?

Also did you fix the problems that causes the 517's to seize? Because if you didnt, it'll happen with the -5's... turbos done just "seize" for no reason, especially not near new ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep x2 ^^ Thats exactly what I was going to say on both fronts. The Mitsi/Trust turbos are strong as hell and aren't inclined to just seize - especially both of them!! It would have been cheaper and easier to take them to a turbo expert to look at what caused them to fail and then get that address fixed and the turbos rebuilt.

Depending on the dyno you are using you probably could do with more work to the engine itself as neither turbo combination should be limited to 300kw @ wheels, makes me think the engine itself is the let down.

Edited by Lithium
Link to comment
Share on other sites

*shakes head*

I think you really need to get your turbo part #'s, and specs correct before you go saying you think you dont have what you paid for.

-5's are similar to a HKS 2530

-7's/-9's are similar to HKS GT-SS/R34 N1

There is enough info on the forum stating the above im not sure how its even something that you could get wrong.

Even Garretts website will tell you the HP rating for each.

If the reciept has the part# of -5's on it, then thats what you have. Have you even checked it yet?

Also did you fix the problems that causes the 517's to seize? Because if you didnt, it'll happen with the -5's... turbos done just "seize" for no reason, especially not near new ones.

Just for reference for those playing at home(GCG has a run down and a link to the Garret flowcharts)

2530- http://www.gcg.com.au/turbo/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=15

GT-SS- http://www.gcg.com.au/turbo/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=11

R34 N1- http://www.gcg.com.au/turbo/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=16

Lists the differences in HP and the turbo itself, and GCG specify the -7 as R34 N1 with the other two as "upgrades" with the -5 having a higher HP rating.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Its also very clearly made to take business away from https://theskylineshed.com/ which is legitimate and even has a physical address.
    • The 'About Us' got me ..  I added something to the cart and clicked 'check out' and none of the payment options in the footer (ie those with buyer protection) were available. Stay the hell away from this one.
    • No. Not true for any non-GTR R32. I think even the GTS4 has the GTSt knuckles with eye type lower shock mounts (as opposed to GTR fork lower shock mounts). The only R chassis in which something like the quote claim is true is the R34, on which the turbos have the fork type and the NAs have the eye type. **Edit: Actually I reserve the right to be wrong about the above statement. It might also be true on R33s. My memory on those shitboxen has faded too much.
    • It's a scam. It has all the telltale signs: - The "business" doesn't have a physical address or really any kind of information listed - It's using a generic online store website template - The prices are ridiculously reduced. To good to be true cheap - Everything is in stock and can be ordered in any possible combination   I've seen a few of these for other products as well. Things like sunglasses for example. I'd say stay away from it! And maybe reach out to the real theskylineshed and let them know this exists. I doubt there is much they can do about it, but still.   I don't know if they would actually take your money if you ordered something. Or whether it is just for collecting credit card details to scam otherwise. I'm not game or stupid enough to try it.
    • Hi guys has anyone ever bought from this website theskylineshed.shop?? Not theskylineshed.com as I’m aware there is 2 similar but different sites.     has anyone had any issues with theskylineshed.shop???
×
×
  • Create New...