Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When i bought my R33 the Nissan Boot Lock Cover had either broken off or been stolen. I didn't like the look of it not being there so i hunted around and found replacement ones, but the original's are quite expensive and where out of my price range, Just Jap Auto Imports sell them here as an OEM item. As i didn't want to spend that much for an original, i had a look for a secondhand one, i managed to find someone on here, who was wrecking there R33. I sent him a PM, he told me he was selling it on ebay, so i bought it off ebay.

Now i have a replacement lock, but no key. I was told by some people i could take this lock to a locksmith and have a keymade up to it, and some others said to have the barrels swapped. I didnt exactly like the ideas of having extras keys just so i can open the boot, so i decided to go along the path of having the barrels swapped. I took my original one out of the car to take to a locksmith and have the barrel swapped into the replacement.

Of course being me i had to put the key in and see how it worked, i then thought it look rather easy to do myself, and decided to give it a crack. I did go looking on the net a bit for some help doing this, but nothing popped up.

So here is a guide on how to swap the R33 Boot Lock Barrels.

Boot Beforehand

post-58049-1238664284_thumb.jpg

Inside Boot Panel, you need to remove the blackclip for the lock to come out, a bit of twisting and pulling will get it.

post-58049-1238664380_thumb.jpg

Once the black clip is removed, it should pop out easily.

post-58049-1238664470_thumb.jpg

Now that it is out, this is what the back looks like.

post-58049-1238664543_thumb.jpg

See that clip at the very top, remove that with a flathead screwdriver, carefully so you dont hurt yourself.

post-58049-1238664602_thumb.jpg

Now remove the arm, this just pulls straight off once that clip is removed.

post-58049-1238664660_thumb.jpg

You can also remove the black seal at anytime you like, i did mine at this step.

post-58049-1238664728_thumb.jpg

Now, see that spring. That needs to come off, comes off rather easy with a small screwdriver.

post-58049-1238664812_thumb.jpg

Ok, now you need to release the actual barrel now. See those 4 holes, if you look in you can see plastic taps. What you need to do is puch them towards the centre and down so it pops out the black circle on the front. (Sorry about the bad images from now on, i put my camera on charge while i went out, and forgot to put the macro setting back on, but you can still get the idea)

post-58049-1238664992_thumb.jpg

post-58049-1238665007_thumb.jpg

Now, push the barrel out from the back, fowards. If you are worried about it falling apart, it might be a good idea to put the key in. It may or may not make a difference, i am not sure.

post-58049-1238665092_thumb.jpg

Now this is what you should be left with.

post-58049-1238665138_thumb.jpg

Now do the exact same to the other one. Then swap the barrels from yours into the new one, and do everything in reverse. The black circle will only go in one way as it is tapered, and the spring will also only go in one way. As you are reassembling, it maybe a nice idea to add some grease onto the barrel.

Now for the finished product.

post-58049-1238665423_thumb.jpg

post-58049-1238665444_thumb.jpg

post-58049-1238665459_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263946-r33-boot-lock/
Share on other sites

Good tutorial Aberax :(

A couple of tips for ya,

Put the key in if your scared the wafers will fall out. Putting the key into the barrel will hold them in.

Even better idea is to swap the wafers out into the new barrel as this will give you a fresh keyway. Just be careful not to lose the wafer springs.

Don't grease the barrel, wet lubricants attract dust and it stays in there. Use a dry lubricant like graphite.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263946-r33-boot-lock/#findComment-4515732
Share on other sites

oh nice...just what i needed. boot a spoiler off a guy on sau but he didn't wanna take the spoiler off his boot so he is giving me the boot with it lol.

thinking just to use the boot lid that my spoiler is coming with so i'll just swap the locks over. thanks mate!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263946-r33-boot-lock/#findComment-4516463
Share on other sites

Good tutorial Aberax :cool:

A couple of tips for ya,

Put the key in if your scared the wafers will fall out. Putting the key into the barrel will hold them in.

Even better idea is to swap the wafers out into the new barrel as this will give you a fresh keyway. Just be careful not to lose the wafer springs.

Don't grease the barrel, wet lubricants attract dust and it stays in there. Use a dry lubricant like graphite.

Thanks for the extra tips mate. I suggested grease as a lubricant as while working on the barrel it seemed to be covered in either grease or machine oil, not really too sure. But graphite also works :P .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263946-r33-boot-lock/#findComment-4518036
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

how on earth did u get to take the rear badge out im trying to do the same thing but to no luck...i removed the boot liner, unscrewed the latch thingy and i could not get to it from underneath as it is covered by metal (if u get what i mean) not sure how u got to the second pic...sorry man such a noob i swear..i couldnt work it out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263946-r33-boot-lock/#findComment-4557473
Share on other sites

ok, a bit of a quicker run down.

1. Open boot

2. take boot lid lining off

3. look/feel inside the boot where the lock is and you should see/feel the black metal tab

4. wriggle the tab up and down while pulling on it, it will eventually pull off

5. lock should now come off of/out of boot lid

For the second pic, i put my camera in one of the holes and took the photo. Take for instance the left of the second pic, you see the white surface, that surface is the rear of the boot, as you can see the lock barrel there, so on the other side of that surface would be the emblem cover for the lock. Once you take the boot lid lining off you should get a better idea. My car didn't come with any boot lid liner, so that's why i didn't write that step in originally.

Hope that helps a bit.

Edited by Aberax
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263946-r33-boot-lock/#findComment-4559434
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I just done this..

If anyone has the badges still on there, just lift it up abit and move it outwards, use a bit of force, and now you will be able to get the black rubber and the key barrel out.. hope this helps anyone that had the same as me..

thanx 4 the diy again..

Edited by seriesII
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263946-r33-boot-lock/#findComment-4583884
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i took mine off and just smacked fibre glass over the hole sanded it back than voila shaved boot hehe it thought it pointless to have a key there when the lever is just as easy to use

also dont have to worry about people trying to break into your boot, just an idea

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263946-r33-boot-lock/#findComment-4614972
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 8 years later...
  • 4 months later...

Fantastic diy and super easy! Once i removed the barrel i left the key inside so the pins wouldnt fall out and i could see which pins were sitting higher. With the key still inserted i grinded off about 0.5mm on 2 of the pins. [emoji5]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263946-r33-boot-lock/#findComment-7869616
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...