Merli's R32 Track Bitch

[Beer Baron]

check out the nismo ones too. it's just a very small bump in the arm. you could get something added pretty easily if you want.

[NZM.031]

i had a full lock accident... snapped the hub just under the top ball joint, top and bottom control arm, snapped the castor rod and busted the rim.. it was under full lock and jammed the wheel up under the floor.... i dont think my steering stop saved me from doing any damage

[Merli]

Of course, if you're turning anywhere near that much, you've lost control of the car and are better standing on the brake.

I agree with this.... But John's mechanic Chris said that when he drove it, upon initiating a turn, and coming close to the normal steering angle lock, the steering wheel to PULLED towards the rest of the way, jamming the toe arm against the LCA.

That's what worries me.

[JAS-25T]

Yeah, because the friction in the direction across the surface of the tyre is higher than along it, thus forcing it to turn (if the angle is available) but considering he would have driven it around the street, probably doing a u-turn or two, these would be greater steering wheel rotations than those seen on the track.

[Merli]

Yep... understand all that.

I was really looking for feedback from those who have fitted these same parts, and what they did (if anything) about the issue.

[Beer Baron]

Of course, if you're turning anywhere near that much, you've lost control of the car and are better standing on the brake.

I agree with this.... But John's mechanic Chris said that when he drove it, upon initiating a turn, and coming close to the normal steering angle lock, the steering wheel to PULLED towards the rest of the way, jamming the toe arm against the LCA.

That's what worries me.

hmmm, well that is what normally happens, the tie rod end contacts the bump on the lca. but to get there would be like 2 full turns of the wheel or more. never going to get anywhere near that on the track. having driven a few cars now with the ikeya tie rod ends and the lca's i've never felt anything like that.

I think probably the best idea would be to weld on a little stop if it's a concern. don't even have to weld one you could fashion one out of some alloy and retain it with a hose clamp or similar.

and again, in an accident scenario I don't think those stops will save anything. as the tie rod smashes into it something's going to break. stop or no stop.

I do agree it would probably be good if there was one, but they must have a reason for leaving it off. I will ask them about it.

[Beer Baron]

Yep... understand all that.

I was really looking for feedback from those who have fitted these same parts, and what they did (if anything) about the issue.

hopefully mark or russ will chime in, or justin, or dave. they all have ikeya front LCAs and a couple have the tierod ends too. but i don't think any of them have done anything to it and to my knowledge none of them have had any problems.

[Merli]

Also interested if they had to cut down their tie rod ends as well... Duncy Dinosaur's comment about them looking very long is a good start, because truth be told, I was a little scared when I was told that they were cut

[bnr#@]

How much camber adjustment do the LCA's give you? What size front camber arms did you choose also?

[Merli]

Haven't played with the LCAs yet... I'll report in to see how much we can wind the buggers out when I get to play with them

I went for the Cusco -10mm arms, which in conjunction with the standard position LCAs, gives about 3 degrees neg camber

[fatz]

ddd

Edited June 29, 2009 by fatz

[Beer Baron]

oop, that was me posting as fatz.

anyway what I meant to say:

mark berry just called. he said stop being a big girl. there is nothing to worry about. if things get back your shiny tie rod ends will just smash their way into your LCAs, just like standard...

[Beer Baron]

How much camber adjustment do the LCA's give you? What size front camber arms did you choose also?

combined with adjustable UCA, or the 10mm shorter ones merli has you can get heaps. like more than 5 degrees neg which is about all you'd ever want.

[dazmo]

Hey mate I have the LCA's and tie rod ends on my car and have not done anything to them and not experianced any problems whilst driving around although I have not had the car out for its first track outing yet (where you would be unlikely to have a problem) I have done around 1000klm's driving without any hint of a problem so I wouldn't be concerned mate.

Edited June 29, 2009 by dazmo

[BezerkR32]

hey mate, i also had some full lock issues on my car, the tyre would touch the castor rod on lock. I made some steering stops to prevent it, but found on my track day i never got near full lock anyway, well except when i had to turn it around on the grass to point forward again.......

i know its not the same as a 4wd but just what i found.

[Merli]

Thanks for the feedback guys...

I'll report back after I get the new clutch drive the car.

[Boosted Zed]

Thanks for the feedback guys...

I'll report back after I get the new clutch drive the car.

Re cutting outer steering arms we had to do this as they had bottomed out and the wheels were still massively towing in. With different offset and narrower tyres or pumped guards, teh lower control arms could be extended it would be ok. Cutting them was not a biggy and gives user the option as too short is worse.

The lack of steering stop is very not good as the arm over extends then comes back on itself, potentially damaging the rack and drive shaft boots. It can be fixed by welding a post onto the lower arm, which Ikea F should do.

[fatz]

get a 31 they dont have this problem

[N1GTR]

Andrew back onto the wheels, do you have any pics from birds eye view?

Also, pics of the car on the ground, to see how the +12 really sits

[Neil]

The lack of steering stop is very not good as the arm over extends then comes back on itself, potentially damaging the rack and drive shaft boots. It can be fixed by welding a post onto the lower arm, which Ikea F should do.

Thank you John for pointing out a basic fundamental.

PAS systems are not designed to be over extended past a prescibed length. The factory always leaves a little in reserve. When you go past that point (and you will sooner or later) it makes the PAS work really hard to come back and like most GTR's the system is already working it's arse off. All you are doing is heating the system more which as we all know is not good and it does happen.

Just as a little experiment,,,try doing a full lock turn,,,I'll bet you have to pull the wheel straight.

Neil.