Jump to content
SAU Community

Merli's R32 Track Bitch

Merli

By Merli,
in Motorsport Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

Majanal Grand Master

Majanal

Posted
Posted
let me ask you this. in driving on the track (or anywhere other than parking manoeuvres) how often do you hit the LCA to limit steering? my answer would be never. all the factory steering stop is is a piece of the LCA that sticks out a bit. yes, without it you now have the potential for more lock (too much) but will you ever use it? I don't think so. john reckons it could be an issue in an accident but if it's that bad an accident that it's slamming the tie rod into the LCA stopper then i'm not sure how much difference there will be with or without that little protrusion. personally I wouldn't worry about it, but it certainly would be possible to add something.

check out the stock LCA. they are not that different. I'm not sure how much more the stock LCA protrudes to stop steering angle...

r32frontsus.jpg

I just can't help but think of what happens when you run out of talent and have a big loose, chasing opposite lock to try and catch the big slide through the dipper at OP... :huh:

Possibly a stupid question, but is the point where the LCA meets the castor arm supposed to be unmovable? (maybe I looked at the pic's poorly, but it looks like there is movement there?) I would also have to agree with Duncan, Alignment is very important with all these adjustable parts on board now and a solid check of this, possibly with standard wheels on, might be an idea?

Anyway, just some idea's, hopefully they help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 615
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted
There are some piccys of the wheels back there... None really showing fitment though... I'll take some more in a week or so, after the brakes go on.

In the meantime, here's a teaser pic :)

090523_diffuser.jpg

i was looking at some pics the other night and i noticed a pic of a r32GTR defuser. i was going to put it up as another example of could be done but then as i searched back through for your first pic of yours i realsed its the same design.

anyway have you fitted and tried this yet? im gessing not as you havent had any recent updates. or are you still awaiting a clutch?

Re air cooling, no pics to show as haven't taken any, other than probably some on my car which would be on our site in motorsports section.

No bling parts, it is more drilling and leaving things out, although you can run a duct in and out of bell housing as some race cars do.

GTR's have small rubber vents at top of bell housing, which is more than most cars have and ok for high performance standard road car, but imagine how hot it gets in this almost sealed relatively small area. Also helps cook the gear oil, along with the often unshielded after market staino engine pipes, right close to the gear box. Imagine if you had full face wheels and full dust shields, your brakes would melt, not quite the same although lots of energy going through equivalent of one rotor. Bottom line is if a car is going to the track with much more hp than it was born with, you should do counter measures, as everything gets stressed a lot more, and everything gets a lot hotter. My single plate clutch has lasted for many years, mainly as ari cooled. I know not 4wd which puts extra load and lighter, but using wide sticky semi slicks or previously old slicks and hanging on to up to 400 plus rwkw, with an average of 10 track days a year.

R34 GTR have a series of alloy fins moulded to gear box for cooling. I have done something similar also on my car.

thanks for the info. i had read past and missed this originally.

one more question. water and dust ect is not a major concern when putting holes in the bell housing? i tend to go off road a bit in mine :D and its never a suprise where mud and water can get.

sorry to hijack merli

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

NOTE:

You may have noticed this thread has been moved.

SAU Admin have decided to run a new section for "Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups"

As such your thread is a prime example of what we wanted to house in this section.

We have left links in the sections you originally posted also to allow easy access to the threads new home.

Any issues, please feel free to pm myself or N1GTR.

Cheers Col

Link to comment
Share on other sites
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
I just can't help but think of what happens when you run out of talent and have a big loose, chasing opposite lock to try and catch the big slide through the dipper at OP... :ninja:

Possibly a stupid question, but is the point where the LCA meets the castor arm supposed to be unmovable? (maybe I looked at the pic's poorly, but it looks like there is movement there?) I would also have to agree with Duncan, Alignment is very important with all these adjustable parts on board now and a solid check of this, possibly with standard wheels on, might be an idea?

Anyway, just some idea's, hopefully they help.

Phark I run out of talent parallel parking in town. :ninja:

Yes the bolted connection where the LCA meets the castor rod is solid. As in 2 times M12 worth of solid. No clearance fit on the bolts, either. Most of the compliance in the stock R32 is in the castor rod.

Shop alignment is for pussies. Just do it by eye. :)

Because I can't manage to read 87 pages of stuff & turned up late - did you change out the upper inner arm bracket (that bolts to the chassis?) Looks to be stock. If so next time you have a chance pull the spring/shock out - disconnect the sway bar & articulate the suspension, ie check if it binds. I am pretty sure this was at the heart of the issues I had with bushes lasting 10 minutes or 10 kms, whichever was the least.

Oh and those Cusco upper arms are heavy bastard things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Messiah Mentor

Messiah

Posted
Posted

saw your car on the weekend Merli, looking good. feck those brakes look even bigger in the flesh.

I dont like the roof racks you added tho, sure racing with your luggage on the roof will throw the balance of a little.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
9krpm Mentor

9krpm

Posted
Posted

090627_lca_stop_3.jpg

Merli, from the image it looks like you can easily fab up a rubber stopper between the LCA and the tie rod end and bolt it up to that big bolt (holding the caster arm).

I did not buy the tie rod end with my Ikeya kit. I am in the process of installing the kit now and not too sure if the stock tie rod end will be able to correct bump steer :blush:

Do you guys know if I need to get one?

Does anyone know how much improvement the rose joint tie rod end alone will have over the factory rod end?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry mate,

I haven't remebered, and 27 pages is along way to sift through,

but what tie rod and tie rod ends did you use to acheive so much lock? Anything else that would assist getting so much steering angle?

The Project I LCA's. Anything else?

Im sick of hearing guesstimates of how much lock ill get with dodgey second rate products. At least this way I know its quality prts and a clear answer on how much lock

Edited by GTS4WD
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

he's using ikeya formula lower control arms (which come with castor rods too) and ikeya formula tie rod ends and cusco upper control arms. that's it as far as front end alignment bits go. the combo of the LCAs and the tie rod ends enables lots of lock. more than needed even for circuit stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card.  I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers, 
    • GTSBoy
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • PranK
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
    • joshuaho96
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I thought an engine that needs more ignition timing to make power is going to result in less power due to reduced knock margin? More time for the combustion to propagate -> more time for it to heat up the rest of the mix to detonation.
×
×
  • Create New...