Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not to go off on a tangent too much from this build thread, but seeing you posted I shall post the crap your company sold to me, then didn’t want to know about it nor want to inspect it for a design fault.

This clutch, was installed by a clutch specialist, this clutch lasted not even 72hrs. I wanted a clutch to use in my car as my OS twin plate was getting rebuilt. The phone monkey at the time was adamant this would be up to the task…

CIMG07812eJPGmsgBF2B8030-CEF6-446A-.jpg

CIMG07872eJPGmsgBF2B8030-CEF6-446A-.jpg

CIMG07832eJPGmsgBF2B8030-CEF6-446A-.jpg

To be honest as this was a couple of years ago, I’m not even phased if you reply.

Ouch this clutch has coped a hard time and let go big time. Looks like a rag clutch ( organic plate) no good for heat or racing.

Re air cooling, no pics to show as haven't taken any, other than probably some on my car which would be on our site in motorsports section.

No bling parts, it is more drilling and leaving things out, although you can run a duct in and out of bell housing as some race cars do.

GTR's have small rubber vents at top of bell housing, which is more than most cars have and ok for high performance standard road car, but imagine how hot it gets in this almost sealed relatively small area. Also helps cook the gear oil, along with the often unshielded after market staino engine pipes, right close to the gear box. Imagine if you had full face wheels and full dust shields, your brakes would melt, not quite the same although lots of energy going through equivalent of one rotor. Bottom line is if a car is going to the track with much more hp than it was born with, you should do counter measures, as everything gets stressed a lot more, and everything gets a lot hotter. My single plate clutch has lasted for many years, mainly as ari cooled. I know not 4wd which puts extra load and lighter, but using wide sticky semi slicks or previously old slicks and hanging on to up to 400 plus rwkw, with an average of 10 track days a year.

R34 GTR have a series of alloy fins moulded to gear box for cooling. I have done something similar also on my car.

  • Replies 615
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thanks guys... Some pics from yesterday.

Brakes are fitted... I'll take better photos later with the wheels off:

FRONT - CP5555 6Pot Calipers, 356mm AP Racing J-Hook Discs

090627_brakes_front.jpg

REAR - CP5200 4 Pot Calipers, 343mm AP Racing J-Hook Discs

090627_brakes_rear.jpg

Wheel fitment, for people who asked...

Car was on a hoist to take photos of the suspension... The wheels obviously tuck in a little more when sitting on the ground.

These are 18x10 +12 wheels.

090627_wheel_align_1.jpg

090627_wheel_align_2.jpg

I'll post some suspension pics when I get back... Need to ask you guys some questions about steering bump stops. Seems like the Ikeya Foruma front LCAs don't have anything to limit the amount of steering lock?!? :)

Ooooooookay....

Now here's the kicker. It seems that the front LCAs, in conjunction with the tie rod ends, results in unlimited front steering :P

Wheels pointing straight:

090627_lca_stop_1.jpg

This is already turned too far:

090627_lca_stop_2.jpg

............. aaaaaaaaaand all the way extended.

090627_lca_stop_3.jpg

See? Way too far.

090627_lca_stop_4.jpg

Check out the CV boot.

090627_lca_stop_5.jpg

yeah not right at all. Is it the same both sides? how is the length of the steering arm compared to standard

BTW you are a dead set brand whore. John stocks the same or better stuff made locally. Those roll centre adjusters on the LCA and tie rod for example.

having looked more closely.....the tie rod ends look miles longer than standard.

and as we found in my car both caster and camber settings also affect the required length of the tie rod as the hub gets pulled around. we had to cut down my tie rod ends...and that was with the standard setup.

i honestly don't see the big deal about the ikea stuff....the welding is excellent and they are way over-engineered (yes a very good thing). but the design, particularly in the rear is no better than what just jap offer at 1/4 the price.

Leave me, and my Calvin Klein underwear out of this :P

I buy Jap stuff on the premise they have been tested and proven... Also with the aim to fit them without fuss, but these things have proved otherwise.

Believe it or not, the tie rod ends have ALREADY been cut down.

yeah sorry not sure, in fact I haven't picked up a set of their tie rod ends yet. I also haven't measured the factory ones and don't have a set here to do so....just saying they look substantially longer than factory eg 50% longer. The original question about the rack being centrered properly still stands too, pretty sure ben would already have checked it out but it's worth double checking.

sorry, back onto brakes, do the rear hats have a drum machined in to the rear fro the handbrake?

No handbrake shoes in the rear discs... Don't want that dead weight. Using a hydraulic handbrake instead :thumbsup:

let me ask you this. in driving on the track (or anywhere other than parking manoeuvres) how often do you hit the LCA to limit steering? my answer would be never. all the factory steering stop is is a piece of the LCA that sticks out a bit. yes, without it you now have the potential for more lock (too much) but will you ever use it? I don't think so. john reckons it could be an issue in an accident but if it's that bad an accident that it's slamming the tie rod into the LCA stopper then i'm not sure how much difference there will be with or without that little protrusion. personally I wouldn't worry about it, but it certainly would be possible to add something.

check out the stock LCA. they are not that different. I'm not sure how much more the stock LCA protrudes to stop steering angle...

r32frontsus.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...