Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i installed my new nismo diff today...

i went with the 1.5 way gt lsd pro TT model, and i couldn't be happier :P

when we first installed it and i was backing out of the shop the thing shuddered and clunked a fair bit... but was livable...

then i drove to the end of the court and broke it in... BEFORE i drove anywhere...

i did figure 8's (clutch in) for just over half an hour (gets some funny looks) and then decided to test it out.

i gave it a launch and some nice 300rwkw and it locked up sooo much better than the stocker... as in it ACTUALLY locked!

for hard driving its 1 million times better now...

so then i decided to see what all this complaining about diff noise in a daily is about, and i couldn't make it noisy... any condition i put it through its totally silent!

i then dumped the oil and refilled it with nismo 100% esther 75w90 diff oil.

even quiter now!

so i'm not sure if its the TT model of the diff that's quiet or the kin procedure... but just thought that i'd post up for info's sake as there have been a lot of threads about diff noise of late ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263984-my-diff-install/
Share on other sites

I've never heard of a NISMO diff centre "being" noisy :(

They're usually the quiet ones and then the ATS ones are a bit more noisy and then into the real klunkers like KAAZ etc.

I would love to do the same since it transforms the car ( but there's a little matter of $'s :) )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263984-my-diff-install/#findComment-4515817
Share on other sites

My Nismo diff (GT Pro LSD, can't remember if it's the TT model or not) is noisy but it's a 2way so is locking a lot more on decel.

I ran mine in as per the instructions and it's only noisy/clunky when cornering on the gas a little.. either coast it round the corner (constant throttle) or stomp on the gas and slide it round the corner :ermm:

I love it :D

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263984-my-diff-install/#findComment-4516186
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...