Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

upgrading to lets say tomei stage 1 proncams would give you more lift and duratiopn and that'll improve mid-top range! but cam gears allow you to adjust them to bring boost on earlier and so, but i'm no guru so someone else might have to explain! but my plan is to just get an exhaust cam gear and run the standard cams which i was told it'll be better for the power i'm aiming for!

how much of a difference would cams and cam gears make?

sorry to steal your thread but since its about lag and power

how would a gt3540 off an xr6t go on an rb25?

the gt35/40 from a xr6 is too big for a standard engine coz i think it runs a 1.06 rear exhaust housing internal gate, to make it more responsive maybe put a .63 exhaust housing on it

ive got a gt35/40 .82 housing and external gate on my forged rb25 engine and its still laggy even with cams and cam gears, what brings my boost on quicker is my 6boost exhaust manilfold but when it comes on to boost at about 3,700/4000rpm it hits HARD!!!!

do aftermarket exhaust manifolds make much difference? any1 selling a decent one?

they suppose to give you better flow but are only worth upgrading to if you want a top mount turbo set up or using a bigger turbo on a lowmount setup, ive noticed the stainless steel manifolds crack around the welds, but they give ya exhaust note a crisper sound

if u wanna go aftermarket get a tune lengthed manifold made of steampipe

on a internally standard motor stick with the standard cast manifold and if u wanna run a bigger turbo use a spacer plate

the gt35/40 from a xr6 is too big for a standard engine coz i think it runs a 1.06 rear exhaust housing internal gate, to make it more responsive maybe put a .63 exhaust housing on it

ive got a gt35/40 .82 housing and external gate on my forged rb25 engine and its still laggy even with cams and cam gears, what brings my boost on quicker is my 6boost exhaust manilfold but when it comes on to boost at about 3,700/4000rpm it hits HARD!!!!

Ahh I see, I'm not chasing too much power, id be happy with around 250ish at the wheels with response on standard block... trying to get the car setup for track/hill climb. Working on a budget and xr6t gt3540's seem to go fairly cheap.

better off buying my gt30 hiflow and u will get 250 easy and not even much lag.

haha sounds good but i don't think i have the $$ you'd be chasing atm... just blew a load of cash on brakes and suspension upgrades hehe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...